FireHead

I'd like to see what Dr. Phil (Banshe-man) has to say about that. He might say that you are enabling him. :ohmy:

That's why you have to bring your own. You make alot of friends that way too. If you have a back pack (or little red wagon) full of beer, you are pretty much the most popular person there. :thumbsup:

Proper fuel tuning requires quite a large capitol equipment with space, personnel, and labratory equipment. There really aren't that many people who do it in the racing industry even if the particular race sanctioning body allows it. (by saying that I am fully expecting some one to come up with some sort of joke about the 2007 Daytona 500) :thumbsup:

I am not familiar with that product. Is the product marketed as an octane booster or a fuel conditionner NOx use?

I agree that pre-ignition (also known as auto ignition) and detonation are not the same thing. :thumbsup:

Most of the new trucks injection pumps and piezoelectric injectors won't do well tih and thing over B20 biodiesel (the manufacturers say B5). :geek: I will check out www.dieselram.com and www.dieseltrucksource.com . :thumbsup:

And here it is in 2006.

I was wrong. It's either a Tag or a Duncan bumper. Here is a picture of that bike in 2005.

What you're doing sounds reasonable. I don't really believe that your engine sucked anything in. I think it is probably more likely that some dirt or something was left in the cylinder or intake system when it was assembled. One of the pseudo benefits of a reed induction two stroke engine is that the crank chamber acts as a particulate trap, thus not much of anything solid will make it into the combustion chamber. :thumbsup:

They usually have a big sale around Christmas time on their billet stuff. That's about all you are going to get for a discount unless you live near them and take up shop lifting as a hobby.

I finally broke down and did the Nology coils and wires last year. I had a little help with the decision though, as the epoxy potting on my OEM coil started seperating from the terminals. It still worked, but it wasn't going to keep working much longer.

I'll let you pick which answer you get. Would you like to know how I figure out what ratio of propylene oxide to race fuel to mix or would you like to know how one might properly do it in a labratory? If you choose to learn how I do it, you won't get a very good answer as to when the fuel cannot retain any additional oxygen. You are correct in saying that it has a great effect on jetting. I used to have an alcohol fetish prior to getting into oxygenated race fuel. I don't really do the alcohol thing much any more because I am lazy and I don't ride enough to justify dealing with the hassles of alcohol (I can't stand throwing out left over alcohol). My triple will probably wind up on alcohol, but it will initially be developed on race gas. There are some things that can be done to neutralize some of the acidity of alcohol, but you just can't do much with the hydroscopic property wxcept for running the alcohol through a water separator, which can also strip the alcohol of some additives. :geek:

I never said that you would have problems if you didn't run an overflow tank. Removing the overflow tank in a quest to save weight makes sense. The hose issue could be taken care of other ways just as well. I am generally not an appearance oriented guy, so I can't even comment on that, one way or the other. What you seem to hear most on the HQ is that the Banshee cooling system is not a coolant recovering system. For all intents are purposes that is false. I have no idea who the retard was that spread that around. The truth of the matter is that the Banshee cooling system is a coolant recovery system, but it has some characteristics that make the previous false statement believable. Many of the interesting things the Banshee cooling system does is due to the way coolant enters and leaves the engine. Since the coolant enters and leaves the engine at relatively the same altitude and the path of least resistance for the coolant tends to be across the top of the head instead of in over the combustion chamber, down into the water jackets, and then out of the engine like it should be, you wind up with the reason the Banshee is well known for running hot. (You may notice many aftermarket cylinder companies have relocated the coolant inlet and outlets on their cylinders.) To compound that problem the Banshee uses a top and bottom tank radiator that can't ever be completely full of coolant when it's at ambient temperature (hence why most of the time, the cooling system never pukes coolant or draws down the overglow tank). The water pump design is about the only stellar part of the cooling system (assuming to replace the plastic impeller), but even it can be prone to having the coolant flow stalling via the coolant not degassing. Now all that is just my theory based on common cooling system design practices and my experience. I can prove parts of my theory, but not all of it. In the end, I really have no way of knowing what the engineers were thinking of when they came up with the system. You may notice that nothing I have said thus far is a compelling reason to run or not to run the overflow tank. The reason I run the tank is basically that I believe the system does work by design, but in practice it has to see degassed coolant, higher pressure, and high temperatures to function properly. In summary, it is just wishful thinking on my part. :geek:

I am not a in a real big hurry. It has taken me since some time last year to get this far in the process. ::

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

I am really not sure how much of a possibility there is for a screw to come loose. I really don't it would be a problem if the VF2's were properly assembled. The same this goes for the VF3's. If they are properly assembled, there shouldn't ever be a problem. The only reason I mentioned the VF3's snapping together before was to show that you could grow the same problem with a VF2 as you could with a VF3. In reality, I don't think the issue with either reed valve is worth talking about. :shrug:

You can have a similair problem with the VF3's if you don't do a good job snapping them together. :thumbsup:

That's great advice! :thumbsup: Have you ever thought of starting some sort of talk show like Dr. Phil? :laugh:

I actually didn't know the coolant hose and breather hoses were different sizes. I guess I learn something every day. With regard to the overflow tank, my biggest problem with the whole deal is that no one can ever tell you a correct answer as to wy it's not needed, let alone how they came to that conclusion. Beyond that, I have a bit of a different theory as to how that part of the Banshee cooling system works when compared to popular belief. :geek:

I personally have an oxygenated race fuel fetish. So far the best oxygen additive I have is propylene oxide if I am blending the fuel myself. I can't remember what VP is using. :geek:

I figured the part you think looks silver is just a crazy tan line. :ohmy:

The problem is that definition doesn't really fit the context of where it was used in this thread.

If the detonation was caused by overheating you may get a dispersed pattern of pitting like what is in the picture. :thumbsup:

The definition of FOD that I am familiar with is used a U.S. Navy carrier fleet. The acronym stand for Foreign Objects ans Debris. :thumbsup:

Pretty much any gasoline you buy has an additive package in it. To use pump gas as an example, you will generally find a detergent and oxygenate package in it. The oxygenate is is not like what you would find in race gas. It is there for emissions reduction. The ratio of oxygenate to fuel tends to go up due to gonernment regulations during the winter when it is cold outside. The octane rating of a fuel is a direct result of the refinement process it goes through. :thumbsup: