FireHead

From my experience there can be a bit of variation across all compression testors no matter who made them. A more expensive is a great tool to have and you certainly gain repeatebility and ease of use by spending more money on a tester. It always makes me giggle to read about people and their compression testers. Most people are not dumb and are using their testers properly most of the time, but it amazes me how many people have malfunctioning compression testers. :biggrin:

Check to see if you are getting fuel to the carbs via the methjod I described previously. On a positive note, it great that you don't have an electrical problem as that waas probably going to be the hardest type of problem to fix via the internet. :thumbsup:

Do you have a problem with fat people on the trails? :laugh:

There are several things wrong with what was sstated there. Not only is sand blasting not the only way to decoke and expansion chamber, it's not even the best way to do it. Sand blasting carries with it many of the same problems as the torch methods I described with the additon of the fact that you probably will not be able to bring sand or media to bear on many parts of the chamber. Using Motul is not an effective way to prevent coking of an evhaust system. While it may coke the system less than a castor based oil, but it will still coke the exhaust just as bad in the long run. :thumbsup:

That compression is quite low. I would be thinking that 110-115 psi would be the lowest you would be at with a stock head and porting. Are you sure the engine only has 20 hours on it?

If somebody went to the trouble of putting in a kill switch (thing with the tether) and you don't have a stop/run/light switch or a key, it probably safe to say that your problem is somewhere around that switch. If wired in correctly you won't need a key or a run/stop switch. The fun part is, that thre are far more ways to wire it incorrectly then there are to wire it correctly. I suspect when you get after it in the morning you will find that you don't have spark. Once you have checked spark, let us know what you found. It's mildly unfortunate that your camera is in the shop, but I think we can work around the problem. To get a bit of a head start on the problem (as said above I am assuming something is wired in correctly) you may need to come up with a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM). They shouldn't be more than $15 at an auto parts store or Radioshack if you don't have one or cannot borrow one. You will be using this to check continuity of the electrical circuits as we work through the problem. I will make sure and check this thread tomorrow morning and evening. I am supposed to go play with Bansh-man during the day tomorrow so don't be worried if I don't get back to you right away. :thumbsup:

No worries. :beer: It just baffles me how fantastically retarded people are. I am not sure who is worse, the person who is making that kit, or the person who buys that kit.

That's good advice. I didn't what to call those things or where to get them. I didn't say anything because the only decription I could think of was that they are like an idustrial baby bottle brush. :geek:

I agee. The thing that absolutely amazes me is that there must be so much bump steer involved with it that the bike would be near in rideable. The strength issue is secondary to that. Who ever cooked that thing paid zero attention to how load travels from the suspension to the frame. This product is so bad that it actually pisses me off (which almost never happens). ::

Like I said, there is a thread in the suspension forum where a couple guys swear by these kits. I think that it's probably apropriate to post it in this forum as well. :thumbsup:

Can you describe how you have that all wired together or possibly take a picture of it? Did you checkk to see if you have spark yet?

Most of my experience with this stuff has been in Washington and California. One place is full of hippies running around hugging trees and complaing because the use of deoderant is burning a hole in the ozone. The other place is full of bad drivers that don't speak english and try and sue if you make them get their hands dirty or do any work at all, for that matter. :: :shoothead:

If you are not leaking any fluid then you most certainly still have air in the system. I have never had any of my Banshee's front brakes bleed very quickly. You have to bleed them, then bleed them some more while you are tapping on the calipers, lines, and master cylinder, then when you are done doing that bleed the system some more. Aftermarket braided lines pretty much make the bleeding even worse for some reason. Have fun. :thumbsup:

I have tried that to a certain extent. A sonic parts cleaner and a hot tank really didn't get the job done. Those two tools used to be more effective when it was legal to run some actual chemical detergents in them. Now with all the environmental laws you pretty much have to run the industrial equivalent of hand soap or Simple Green.

We can probably help with that too. To check for spark, remove a spark plug, make sure it's attached to the plug wire, touch the end of the plug to a metal part of the bike, and kick the engine over. You should see a spark at the end of the pluc when you do this. To check for fuel, open the screws on the bottom of the float bowls. If gas starts to come out the nipple by the respective screw than you probably have fuel. You need a compression tester to check compression. They can be had fairly in expensively at an auto parts store. Some parts stores may even rant them. The theory behind this tool is that you screw it into a spark plug hole and kick the engine over. It then reads on a gauge how many pounds of pressure the cylinder holds. For now, we can assume that you have good compression. First, chck and see if fuel is getting to the carbs. If it is, then check tp see if you have spark. Hopefully, it's one of those two things. Let us know what you find and we can tell you where to go from there. :thumbsup:

Oh yeah, if you have chrome pipes or are not planning on having your pipes refinished, don't do what I posted previously. Most pipes that the decoking process is done to have abre metal finish. I am not sure about being able to decoke an expansion chamber chemically. However, because my brain is about 70% full of useless information, it seems to me that there is a chemical(s) out there that is used in the steam engine industry that is sprayed inside boiler to decoke them. I think that there is some scrubbing with a brush involved in the process. I couldn't tell you where to look to buy the chemical(s). I can't even tell you how I came to know that information.

Don't get me wrong, I have had several embarassing (on their part) phone conversations with Trinity amd I have heard one of the counter guys spewing incorrect information to a customer. There are a couple wuestionable people back in there machine shop as well. At the moment, I think there is only one counter guy that is worth much out of everyone there. The cool thing about the Trinity pipes is that you can get them made out of stainless steel. They are pretty much the only people who do that for a Banshee. :thumbsup:

Do you have compression, spark, and fuel? Between a few of us on hear I am sure that we can help you get your bike going. :thumbsup:

I agree 100% There is a guy over in the Suspension forum that is trying to tell folks that the kit is better than aftermarket a-arms (to paraphrase). I am not sure if he is just trying to sell them or what, but it's pretty funny. :biggrin:

PM RNBrad on here. He runs the Trinity in-frame pipes and he really likes them. They are supposed to be a good pipe. With regard to Trinity as a company, if you have to deal with them on the phone or have work done on your bike by them you may not wind up very happy. If you work with them in person, there are a few guys that aren't that bad. Every once in awhile they have some good machine shop folk and some good engine assembly people come through their operation. I don't think I have anyone from there currently in our machine shop, but there is atleast one guy over in our engine build shop from there. The guys that I have had that worked directly for me have been great, so I make the assumption that there has been some good work done by Trinity from time to time. With all that said, I have never had any work done for me by Trinity, the only business I have ever done with them has been buying parts from them in person. On several occaisions they have gone way above and beyond the call of duty to help me. My personal opinion of Trinity is that they are only as incompetent as their customers are and they certainly have alot of idiots with more money than brain cells doing business with them. :thumbsup:

You could duct tape oven mits to your legs. (I am only half way kidding) :biggrin:

The process you are referring to is called decoking. Sand or media blasting is one way to do it, but it's not the way it is traditionally done. The traditional method for decoking two stroke expansion chamber is heating the out side of the expansion chamber with a a gas torch to a reasonable temperature that is not hot enough to deform the pipe and then gradually tapping on the pipe with a piece of wood or something else that will not damage the pipe. I have seen several folks doing a variant of the previous method, the difference being that instead of tapping on the pipe, they dump water or ATF on it (I don't know why you would use ATF). I realize this all sounds a bit odd, but it's what the guys that raced the old two stroke Moto GP bikes do. I have tried the tapping and water variant of the decoking process on a few threewheeler pipes several years ago and it does work. My advice would be that if you don't feel comfortable doing this, don't do it. I am certain that if you called around to enough motorcycle shops that you could find someone to do it for you. :thumbsup:

I hadn't heard that Skat Trak had their own carcasses (that certainly does not mean they are not doing it). I know the front tires they sell, that have their name on them, have the name applied with a hot pad printing technique. :thumbsup:

Those things are a lawsuit waiting to happen. They are very clearly under engineered with regard to strength in several areas (I don't care what material they are made out of). Thee kit also will give you terrible suspension geometry in several areas, the worst of which is bump steer. The only people that are less intelligent than the person selling that kit are the people buying that kit. :shoothead: As I am sure it will some up, I am not saying any of this to make myself feel better about my "pro" setup as I don't have one. What I do have is a tiny bit of engineering experience and atleast one functioning brain cell.

How much more power are you figuring the extra 10psi of boost is giving you?