FireHead

Someone told me that they are in the process of moving from there current location (next to a strip club) to a new one out in Rancho SomethingorOther. That maybe why you couldn't get ahold of them. I have never owned a Trinity powervalve setup. Apparently these are quite different from what alot of people are running? I know alot of people wind up removing and blocking off the powervalves on Trinity purchased cylinders for what ever reason. :ermm:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7pAfw3BcUQ This video has been going around my work for awhile. I am not sure if it is funny any more, but y'all might like it.

Either way I don't think you lose. The Cascade spring should be fine.

I suppose it skipped over the part where I should have asked what type of powervalves that he has. There have been a couple different style put on Cheetahs. The type that open with exhaust pressure look more like what you would find on a T-Rex cylinder. The valves that open with engine vacuum are all that is being put on any new Cheetahs, including the DM cylinders. I actually didn't know the valves that open with exhaust pressure had lines that came off them. I have never seen anyone actually using them may be a better way to put it. If you don't know what you have try starting the engine. If the bike runs like crap and falls on it's face at any speed higher than idle, then you have vacuum operated valves. The Cheetah engine I had was used very similairly to the way Handyman uses his it sounds like.

You win.

Probably. You need to make sure Paypal understands your side of the story. Many, many emails to them help this process along. I have a deal going with a guy that broke the carbs that I sold him in several different places. He made me file a claim with UPS, who obviously didn't fo anything. I got the carbs back and they had been wailed on with pliers ans what I am gueesing was a hammer, plus they were full of gas. Obviouslt I didn't send them out that way. My biggest problem is that I already left the buyer positive feedback, because he didn't say anything until a week after the carbs had been delivered. He hasn't taken it to Paypal yet, but when he does my foot is going in his ass.

I am not saying that it never happened, but it's becoming more and more difficult. The it used to be done in the Northwest was to cross at one of the unmonitored border crossing near Blaine, WA and drive down to the Oregon DMV. The Oregon DMV would pretty much license anything up until recent years as long as you had an Oregon address (you really didn't even need that). That's how alot of the grey market vehicles on the west coast made it into the U.S. with legal titles and registration. My friend still has his little red wagon (an actual wagon that is red (not the Dodge truck)) with a license and registration from Oregon. At some point there was a crack down on some of the questionable vehicles that had been registered as a result of all that. I know of one Skyline that was court ordered to be crushed. My buddy in WA currently has a diesel Toyota pickup that had it's registration revoked when the emissions laws came to his county. Now the truck just sits in his drive way. :sad:

You cannot vring a car into the U.S. if it has not been docuemented to meet road worthiness standards for the year it was produced. If the state licensing agency does not have that information available to them then you have to supply a notarized letter stating the vehicles road worthiness from the manufacturer. If you cannot do that you will not be able to bring the vehicle across the border. Motorcycles and ATV's are a bit different and I do not claim to know how the process goes with them. :thumbsup:

You should post up what you find out. I am sure you are not the only person to ever run into this. :thumbsup:

Now, that's funny. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

I agree TCS knows what they are doing. I have found that they are much better in person than on the phone. I think it has to do with something they are putting in the water out there in Lake Elsinore. :ermm: Anyways, DuneDemon would probably know more on the subject at hand. than anybody else on the HQ or possibly anywhere for that matter. Thanks for helping this guy out, Blaine. :cool:

I bought mine off the AC website a few years ago. :thumbsup:

Well, that's the tricky part. Doing stuff like that used to be alot easier to do back in the '80's. Not that I would know from experience (I'm not that old), but from hearing it from others. I think how you do it will really depend on what state you are in. Maybe someone on here has an idea as to how to get it done. If anyone figures it out so that it's not a pain in the ass to do, I'll be on my way up to Vanvouver, BC to buy one just for the hell of it. :thumbsup:

Well, I already made a joke about a parrot, a peg leg, and a pirate hooker on the HQ this week, so I figured adding a goose of questionable tightness to the mix would be the logical next step.

You can buy the 2008's Canadia and Mexico. :thumbsup:

Give Trinity a call and ask them where the lines go. Don't let them try and sell you anything. :thumbsup:

It's cool that you don't believe me. At the same time it is quote clear that you don't know what you're doing. Not that the link below is to the best company in the world but if you call them, they will answer your question. http://www.trinityracing.com/index.html

Yeah, I am not sure why I am thinking that about the Nology coil. You should be able to test the primary and secondary windings of the coil just like any other coil. For some reason something just sticks in my head that there is something different about the secondary windings that makes it so you can't test it. I could be just making whole thing up though. I know how I can solve the problem though, as soon as I find the owner of Nology's business card. :thumbsup:

For some reason I need a new shiney one that is a pretty color.

It's only a neutral switch cover if you have a newer bike. If you have an older Clymer's it's called a shift drum cover as there was no such thing as a neutral safety switch. http://www.quicksandmotorsports.com/accessories.htm About half way down the page at the above link you will see where Quicksand calls it a shift drum cover as well. http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/cascade...ORE_DEPT_ID=301 At the above link you will see where Cascade calls it a neutral safety switch cover. Either way, they are the same thing. Now the real question is: Who wants to buy me one of those covers from Cascade or Quicksand? :ohmy:

I agree that it sounds mor like a stator area problem, whether it's a sheared key, the inductive pickup, or the stator itself. For some reason, I have the idea floating around in my head that you cannot test a Nology coil in the same fashion as a normal automotive coil. I don't know why that is or if it is correct or not.

How loose is a goose? :ermm:

Let me explain the problem with powder coating stock a-arms in a way that some one of you maturity level might undetand it. If you powder coat the stock a-arms in an oven (like most people do), you will ruin the a-arms. Good luck selling your stuff on here, because I doubt anyone will buy it at this point.

I am pretty sure I wasn't born yet when those RD engines were new. I love a good threewheeler though. An '84 Kawasaki Tecate was my first ATV and I have owned a couple Honda threewheelers since. Like I said before, if I didn't have my triple project going I would be out looking at one of those two bikes. :thumbsup:

I'll definitely be down to do that. If all goes according to plan, pending getting a townhouse rented I should be up there permanently before April 9th. I have another question for you guys. What are y'all doing to meet the noise regulations in the dune areas? I know Cascade and Dave Moore make special silencers to make Banshees legal. Are the Cascade silencers the way to go with the CPI in-frames on my red bike? What is the nearest sand drag track to Portland?