FireHead

................and then some asshole (me) decided to bore the throatof his carbs for larger slides in addition to a largwer bore and wound up with a large hole in his right carbn out in the middle of nowhere in Glamis. :shoothead:

If you were closer, I would have already bought it from you. Most of the time you can't get a running 350X for less than $1k.

Drag racing and shifting hard is where you will notice the problem most often.

Probably not, but it depends on how agressively you are trying to acclerate your bike and how much horsepower your bike actually makes. My red bike is in the 70'ish range and I can shifht it pretty much however I want with or without the clutch. The transmission in that bike is pretty much stock (I have a couple things done to it, but it's not an override) and I don't race too many foks with it. :geek:

With almost triple the stock hp and torque from a 4 mil Cub, you get the output and intermediate shafts of the transmission deflecting slightky, which makes it really hard to shift. You have to exaggerate your throttle blip to shift without the clutch. :thumbsup:

It sounds like I am in the same boat as you my friend. I think it may be, "Make Shit Up on the Internet Day," and no one told me about it. :ohmy:

I am goingto have to throw some rocks at you hear................... First of all stating M10x1.25 by whater ever bolts, do not come in stainless steel is ignorant. The most certainly are made in stainless steel, you can find them at any fastener house. Second of all, the kit I got contained very high quality fasteners that functioned very well so far. I don't know what kit you got, but it doesn't seem to be the same as mine. All of my fasteners are graded and hand polished. I will put my PE stamp on that. UI have not had any trouble with bolts stretching, seizing, or doing anything else you have stated. Antiseize should not be necessary on any of the threads that are not exposed to weather or a bi-metallic fit. I apologize if I am picking on a retard here............ :ermm:

I am guessing that I will be seeing a 10 mil cub cylinder block and crank or a stock or +4 swingarm fo sale real soon.

I got paid and it's going in the mail today. I have a coil and an airbox upfor auction now if anyone is interested in that stuff.

With regard to dune size, I was doubting the 100' figure simply because of the size of all the other dunes in WA. :biggrin:

That was a running joke around TRD for atleast a year. Look at how much they cost and read the FAQ. I promise it'll be the funniest thing you look at today. :laugh:

It seems to me that someone was trying to start a business making conversion kits awhile back. As I recal I wasn't too impressed with the engineering or cost involved.

The big boys do it with 6-axis machines. The Centroig control is sort of a hokey piece of crap based on the one time I used one. It does have it's upsides though. It runs on a simple IBM compatible PC, the control interface is really graphically user friendly, and it emulates a Fanuc 11M control format. I think Centurian also makes a similair control. :geek:

The taper boring is a bunch of BS if you ask me. If you are going to get the carbs bored, straight boring is really the only thing that makes sense. Unless you are doing the machine work yourself, boring your carbs is probably not worth it. The Keihin knock-off carbs CPW sells are certainly a much better deal. On the other hand, depending on what you have done to your bike and your future plans for it, carb boring can make some sense in certain situations. :geek:

The squeak can get annoying if your truck doesn't have any pther abnormal noises. If your truck shakes, rattles, and rolls, then it's not big deal and it will just fade into the background. :thumbsup:

Now that's funny! Good 'ol South Park. :laugh:

Hey.............I am only 26 years old. I don't think I will reach geezr status until I am over 30. This isn't what I was originally thinking of, but here is a link to something called centroid: http://www.centroidcnc.com/ I couldn't find a link to the Atari game that I seem to think was called Centroid. I did find a bunch of interesting stuff to read on mathematical game theory though. :thumbsup:

Yeah, that company looks like it's just a bunch of retards with a website. This website is much better. Clicky Clicky

Awesome! What color do you use? :biggrin:

http://www.energysuspension.com/ You can contact the folks above directly. If you just need a couple of bushings, you might be able to play the engineering student card and get a discount or some free stuff. I have done a couple of my trucks with their parts as well as a couple of things at work. These guys are the only folks in the industry who has actual product support. Most of the other companies out there have some imbred hillbilly answering the phone (especially Prothane). :shoothead: Grease and/or powdered graphite on all ot the load bearing surface of the polyurethane will keep the squeaks and grouns to a minimum.

Follow the yellow brick road? I am not even sure where the place really is. A map of sorts was posted earlier in this thread, but I am having trouble referncing it to any of my WA maps.

I added 2 tubes to my RMATV order. This last tube I had lasted my for four years. I should be good for another decade. :cool:

I haven't been paid for the thing yet. The way eBay has been going lately the thing may wind up still being for sale. :ermm:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Drag-banshe...109842174QQrdZ1 Somebody needs here needs to buy that. :thumbsup:

I am guess 100 footers are actually more like 50 footers, but I wouldn't know, I have never been there.