FireHead

I think if you do a search over on Planet Sand you will find a coule threads with pictures in them. :thumbsup:

That sounds cool. What sort of chemicals do you test? How do you test them? :geek:

Happy Birthday! Damn you're old........... :biggrin:

I agree with you..................., but some of us have problems. It really doesn't make much sense to spen $100 on a gas cap. Those caps can be had for $80 shipped from a guy on eBayv (still probably doesn't make sense). :thumbsup:

There isn't any paint on the cap, but there would be some rickj approaching a random, unidentified plastic with acetone, but since I already did it in this case (maybe you can trust me), I say go for the acetone. Great point about the isopropyl alcohol though! That is much safer to use in most cases and can be just as effective of a solvent in most cases. Moving off topic a bit................what kind of chemical plant do you work in? :geek:

Isn't that the same price as at RMATV? Ithink I would rather buy that from RMATV.

Yeah, sorry that was a small joke (almost still born) and I think I may have quoted the wrong post when I made it. :biggrin:

There are guys that don't even know me personally at other racing organizations that call me that. I seem to also remember it being brought up in an Autosport Magazine article. :shoothead:

I think that you may find that your bike will not get what you're asking for it without parting it out. I don't care either way, but don't get all butt hurt about not getting offered that much money for your bike. Craig's List or the Cycle trader may be the only way to go.

You're jealous as hell. I can feel it. :laugh:

Word. I learned awhile ago about the corrosive effect of finger prints. Sometime during the first year that I worked at TRD, one of my QC guys made it a point of making sure that everyone who handled finished, ferrous parts wore gloves. Apparently some asshole (me) fondled a couple of the front engine cover (made a dense form of stainless steel to conform to class weight rules (we were to light) and for car balance issues) our IRL engine and left a bunch of rusty finger prints on them which had to be polished out before the parts went to the build shop. After those shenanigans went down, most of my shop guys always brought up the Edward Rust Fingers incident every time I handled a part for several years afterwards. In reality it was all a stupid mistake on my part that came from being a green, young guy. :ohmy:

I would make sure that you go over both parts very lightly with acetone before glueing them together. That way you know you have a clean bonding surface. :thumbsup: I am probably going to buy another one of their caps for my drag bike and I will do the same thing you are going to do right when I get it. i haven't decided on a color yet, but I am leaning towards the silver if it is actually anodized that color and is not bare aluminum as the alcohol will make it look bad really fast.

It's a different deal every place you go. Test and tune time is generally sold by the hour and there is usually a lower set price if all you want to do is run your bike a few times and see what kind of power it makes.

As I am sure others will atest, I have problems.................I am not sure if any of them qualify as a disease though. I think pretty much everything is a disease these days however, either that or can cause cancer in California. :laugh:

Alright, it is a Permatex product who's item# is 84101. :thumbsup:

I bought a proper shop air compressor yesterday, so I cna just blow any fumes I may exhaust out through the garage door. :laugh:

I have heard that about him, but I have never seen the hidden camera pictures of him loving a Banshee to prove it. :ohmy:

You may also want to do a search on this subject in this site as it has been covered a few times to different degrees. :geek:

It was a clear'ish epoxy. Keep in mind that I call most multi-part adhesives "epoxy," when in reality I should be calling them adhesives. After finish eating my baked beans for dinner I will go look up the part number in my garage. :thumbsup:

I live off 181st'ish in Gresham/Portland. I will have to look up Action Motorsports.

Mark says that if adyno I'd properly instrumented than you could calculate the speed at which Loco's dick falls off after nailing Paris Hilton. On a slightly more serious note. On a chassis dyno, engine horsepower is a calculated number, but itis still pretty accurate (within a couple tenths of apercent assuming you good measuringequipment). Engine horsepower is the last thing you are looking at on a chassis dyno anyway.

I am going to slightly disagree with you. However, I do agree withyou that the recent fashion trend of dyno'ing your bike to show your buddy is a bit annoying. Oh well, maybe Paris Hilton will do it and it won't be cool anymore. Most inertia brake chassis dyno's are garbage, but an AC, eddy current, or water brake chassis dyno can be a very accurate tool. An engine dyno and a chassis dyno are meant to be used differently, but both are are generally very accurate is the torque absorber and instrumentation are above a certain level of sophistication.

I have to believe that the Northwest pass is something you can get at Joe's (formerly G.I. Joe's). I would be nervous about going to a place called Nature of the Northwest when it is located by Lloyd Center. There are alot of hippies down in that area, especially by a nature store. One of them might quit hugging a tree and try to hug me or soething........................

Germany is invading my facility at work this week, so it will be next week atleast before my red bike gets registered. I think my other bke is probably on the one year plan for completion and that just leaves me with my Harley, which doesn't do well in sand. :biggrin:

I agree, however I do not seem to get many topic notifier emails anymore. I have made sure that the HQ was added to all the safelists on my email accounts, but for some reason I only get an email remeder every once in awhile.