FireHead

There are two problems I see with JB Weld: 1.)It is solvent in petroleum (since it is a petroluom based product). However it is fuel resistant to a certain extent. 2.)It's grey and quite unsightly (the bond area is highly visible). Beyond that, the cap was not designed to have an adhesive used there, so the bond gap is not ideal. A clear, bi-mtellic compatible epoxy is the best choice here, but many of them use a solvent that is offensive to polycarbonate (the clear window plastic). An inappropriate epoxy atleast cloud the plastic, if not completely degrade it. As a side note, there are many really neat adhesives out there that are available to the general public, but you have to know what you're looking for. Some of the best epoxy's out there for sale to the general public are marketed or advertised in a way that might make you think that the product is a gimmick or very simply packaged (which might make you choose a different epoxy). :geek:

The only thing that holds the clear window in is the o-ring. It's kind of hard to explain, but pretty straight forward once you have a cap in your hands to look at. I will go look and see what the p/n for the epoxy that I used was, when I get home from work. I know it was a 3M product, but I can't remember which one. :thumbsup:

Where do you get the Northwest forest pass from? I already knew that I needed the ORV Permit thing for my truck, but I had forgotten about the flag for my truck. Thanks for reminding me. I don't remember a whole lot from the last time I was at any of the coastal dunes in Oregon and it seems to have changed a bit. The forest pass deal is new to me. For the sound stuff, I am figuring that I probably need to atleast repack my silencers or replace them with a set of the Cascade CSFX silencers. The only reason I hesitate to get the Cascade units is that they are expensive and I am not sure how they will look on my bike. :geek:

If any one knows the person from Puerto Rico who just won the auctions for my coil and air box, please tell them to respond to my attempts to contact them.

Any dyno that can be sensibly put in a trailer and not hard wired into the electrical grid is a pile of crap. :thumbsup:

I am going to run my Dyna in my gas tank.

I am pretty sure I would wind up verbally abusing someone with a voice chat feature. Atleast if I have to type everything I get a bit of an expanded waiting room for my thoughts.

I could not have said it better myself and I certainly do not have the energy to type thatg much this morning. :biggrin:

I need to call Twister for something else this week, so I can ask them what they think about the noise stuff.

I am interested in going, but I will not be sure if I can go until Wednesday evening. I am also assuming that I can go get an Oregon ORV tag with my California registration.

I do the same thing.

I have an instruction sheet from a Motion Pro idle screw kit. If after reading the response above, you still have questions, I would be happt ot scan the sheet and post it up here. :thumbsup:

I think if you were to ask Brandon who goes by the name "blowit" on here you might learn that he has alot of experience with CDI's and stators causing similair symptoms when they begin to fail. :thumbsup:

I suppose there could be one more thing that sort of slows me down is that I need to either buy some Cascade silencers or repack my CPI silencers to even be close to the coastal noise regulation limit with my red bike. I have never really recieved a straight answer on what to do for that. Riding the other direction if I see the police doesn't count as answer in my book. Other than that it sounds like I have someone to ride with, so that problem is gone. The licensing will still be a bit annoying, but I know what I need to do to get it sorted out. The OSP officer that does all that stuff (only on Wednesdays) was really nice and after yacking at him for a bit last Wednesday, he gave me his email address, personal cell number, and told me once I get my paperwork together, swing by on a Wednesday without an appointment and he will get me taken care of. Furthermore, he also offered to check anything out I was considering purchasing if I emailed him the info. It seems like that this whole deal was alot of work, but I will have made a really good contact in the process, so it winds up being worth my time spent on this deal. :thumbsup:

Word. I would make sure that someone gets a foot verbally inserted in their ass for that. :thumbsup:

I also do not mind typing. I probably would only use such a feature if absolutely necessary. I think cell phones were invented for such things. :thumbsup:

I need two things to make that happen. To finish getting my red bike titled which requires some of my time on a Wednesday (either this week or next week) and someone to go riding with. :thumbsup:

I think you are pretty much stuck with making your own. Unless you find one on eBay, I don't think any one is making them to sell. It seems to me that Loco or someone else posted a tutorial on here regarding how to make one awhile back.

Yeah, I put epoxy on the od of the plastics window and then assembled it into the aluminum cap body. The construction of the cap is kind of hokey. You'll have to check it out when you get yours. The plastic piece is retained in the aluminum body by the previously discussed o-ring in a groove. There isn't ant threading involved. The threading idea is a good one, but it would be a more expensive process and I am not sure that Pro-Tek would even have the capability to do that kind of machine work in a production fashion.

I got the black one. It started leaking the first ride the bike took in the back of my truck. I didn't realize what it was (thought it was my vent line or something) until I got it moving around in the truck. The design is sort of bogus, but if you get some polycaronate and metal compatable epoxy you won't have any trouble. I suspect the o-ring material they use is not compatable with alcohol fuels either, the plastic however is fine. I enjoy the gas cap enough that I will probably buy another one. I still may call and give a customer service person at Pro-Tek a hard time though if I am bored at work one day. :geek:

I don't think I know what that's from................................care to enlighten me? I know they have some different stuff down their in Mexico (San Diego). :biggrin:

How about in pajama pants?

Their gas cap design also doesn't seal very well between the see through part and the aluminum body. I am not sure that I would expect them to spell anything correctly. I swear it is spelled with a c on my gas cap................ :shoothead: I am still debating as to whether or not I need to call and verbally abuse them for their cap design a bit. I suppose the real problem is that their is the only aftermarket cap I kind of like. :shoothead: :shoothead:

You're probably screwed when it comes to the the allen head, stainless steel bolts for the rear linkage. The upper a-arm bolts you can get from Tacoma Screw or Boeing Surplus. :thumbsup:

Last one. :geek: