FireHead

I could do something in regards to fuel economy testiong and development. I will have to think about that some. I think I forgot to mention that the magazine would like me to correlate the class 6-8 engine development to the light duty truck world with whatever topic I choose.

A couple things here: 1.) IMO Trinity is only as retarded as their customers are. [insert flatbiller joke here] 2.)With regard to a Dynojet inertia brake dyno, I agree that they are garbage. If someone gave me a brand new one, I would immediately put it in my front yard with a big carboard sign the said FREE on it. Beyond that, I disagree with your statement that a Dynojet dyno skews hp figure by 15-30%. The real problem with a Dynojet or an inertia brake dyno is that it is not a repeatable device and it really cannot load a drivetrain for any extended period of time. It is a 0 to full throttle tool, only. With this type of dyno you can have two mechanically identical runs, back to back, and have them be wildly different from each other. This is because all you are doing is accelerating a flywheel against a load cell with a constant mass of a the flywhell programmed into the dyno control software. The torque is then a basic calculation based on the time it took to accelerate the mass of the flywheel and to what speed. The rest of the numbers the dyno generates are pure mathematical calculations, which all stem from the mass assumption of the flywheel. Given all of the environment variables (temp., pressure, heat, humidity, etc.) that can vary this type of system it is now very easy to see how a 50hp bike may generate a calculated hp rating of 10hp on one pull and 100hp on the next pull. This also explains why the racing industry nickname for these dynamometers is Dynoguess. If you made it through reading all of that and consider the source (me). You may think that I am biased with regard to dyno's because I am now and have been responsible for some of the most expensive dynos in the world, but that's not really the case. After all the bad things I said about the Dynoguess setups you may wonder what they are good for besides getting flatbillers to lay down cash for a silly dyno print out. An inertia brake dyno is good for power train validation (for example a new car leaving the assembly line). They are great for this as power measurement is not a concern here and they have very few wear items in them. On top of that, any retard can use one without hurting anything. All you are really looking for here is that the drivetrain does not break when you put power to the ground. ****************** Lastly, to stray even further off topic, I have a question for you guys. I have been given an opportunity to write an article for a fairly prominent diesel pickup magazine regarding diesel engine development. So I ask this: what would you guys like to read about in sucha an article? (dyno's, over the road testing, accelerated wear testing, component validation, software, etc.) Let me know what you guys think. :thumbsup:

I suppose what it really comes down to is how bad the damage is and how money he wants to spend fixing it. Post up a link to the thread inserts you are talking about. I think I have a pretty good ideas as to what they are, but I'd like to see them any way. If there is budget on this repair then a high quality, non-plated nut with make a fine bung to weld into the frame. :geek:

The whip cream on horse shit will cost you an extra $3.50.

I made new threaded bungs and TIG welded them into my frame. The easier thing to do would be to buy a replacement frame from a dude name Minkia on here. :thumbsup:

I will be in Denver in lat July for a few weeks. Where can I pick that up at?

I'm not Australian, but I voted yes any way. I don't ever like to feel left out. :ohmy:

http://www.millenworks.com/html/innovative...;navItemIndex=6 ........or these. I actually worked on this project. It is what Michelin's setup is based off of. :geek:

Rear hub bearings? Really? I am assuming you mean rear axle bearings, in which case the Pivot Works kit from RMATV is the only way to go. :thumbsup:

I see how it is. We can talk about someone else's Banshee all day long, but when it somes to talking aboutthings that you might read carved into a stall in highway rest stop bathroom everyone shuts up. :wink:

About 4 minutes? :ermm:

It was either George or Peewee Herman.

I think I saw that carved into the wall of a rest stop bathroom stall. :ermm:

There is not a deal to be had. Unfortunately, $695 is a deal and dealing directly with Fox is as cheap you will get. Fox's pricing policy and distributorship is a very tightly run thing. I can probably come up with a contact name at Fox for you, but I think the last person I knew in the ATV division was promoted and moved to another division (also a pretty tightly run deal. you need to make sure you call the right division for what you are buying. they cannot transfer you as they are in different locations.).

There is a guy named Brandon that does by the name blowit on here. He works for Mull Engieering. I actually didn't know they made anything as this is the first that I have seen of it. If Brandon's intelligence is any sign of the company's service or product quality, then I am sure that it is just fine. :shrug:

I would say that Water Wetter's primary benefit is that it is a surfactant. The lubrication quality is just a happy side effect. DI water and a surfactant is very near the best cooling medium for an IC engine.

I have been running Type F ATF for along time now and it seems to do the trick. Older automatic transmission are very similair to the Banshee transmissions with respect to gear and clutch lubrication. I know using ATF sounds like the redneck thing to do, but it makes sense. Whatever you do, do not use a climbing gear oil in yout Banshee transmission.

I can't possibly see Engine Ice causing a problem when run with alcohol. DI water is fine as well, but you need to make sure the bike is drained when the winter time come around if you keep your bike where it gets cold. I personally run DI water with Redline Water Wetter. I now live in a place where it gets cold, so I will be switching to Engine Ice as soon as I work up the energy to change the coolant.

Sure enough............I think would like the 250R that is that ad as well. :ermm:

I was looking at the u shaped pieces of metal the lights mount on. Jay's do not look the same as the RS units.......................ought to stop talking though, as I don't know much about these products. :geek:

Maybe I am retarded then. I haven't seen many.

Ahha. Are those lights the same as the RS units?

I have done business with Airgas in CA, WA, and OR and they were all absolutely fantastic. The best was Cascade Airgas in Belligham, WA. They are not the absolute cheapest place to get things, but they always seem to have intelligent people working for them and were really receptive to helping me out with some of my stranger projects. I believe that it is ok to put CO2 on it's side, or atleast I have seen it done without problems. Yeha for the TIG unit I would need pure Argon. I am not sure if there is such a thing as medical grade Argon gas. If there is, then there may still be hope for my idea. Someone told me once that there is a such a thing as a CO2 generator that works via osmosis with the outside air. This thing would eliminate the need for a CO2 tank on a keg fridge. I think the guy said they were kind of expensive though. The guy who told me this was into home brewing and may have gotten into some bad beer as I am not sure such a thing actually exists.

eBay actually has a pretty hardcore policy about sellers doing that and/or adding Paypal fees to your bill. Last time read something about it, it was a one strike and your out kind of deal. You may want to inform them of this sellers shenanigans. :thumbsup:

What exactly does a cat shit salad consist of? :ermm: