FireHead

http://www.tcsracing.com/

..............also, Lake Elsinore smells funny. :ermm:

I don't condone the preload thing, but I would try the shock first before sending it out to see what you think. Atleast if you do have to send it out, you'll be able to see the difference that your hard earned cash got you. :geek:

www.mscindustrial.com should have the gauge you need, but putting it in-line with the hose might be more challenging.

One question, before I answer: Do you have a way to buy industrial adhesives? (most vendors such as Ashland and 3M will not sell to the general public or ship to a residential address). :geek:

If cost is an issue, I will come over and do that to your frame for free. :ermm:

This is a good point. Traditionally, on the HQ, when this question is asked, it is asked because someone's bike doesn't start easily and they think by turning it over faster or longer with an electric starter might help. :geek:

Are the RAX arms the ones that were breaking awhile back and couple people got pretty seriously injurred? :ermm:

How much are you looking to get for it? What are the mods? Do you have any pictures?

...............and a custom clutch cover. It's not worth your time in the end and is project that is out of most folks range of ability. :geek:

No, sorry. I really can't say anything about it. If you look hard enough you will find it. :thumbsup:

That made me giggle. :biggrin:

That's correct. The choke system on an OEM Banshee only draws from the one carb (left one). :geek:

I agree. I suspect the demographic of people who enjoy cast iron sleeves over nikasil'd bores will tend to be older and more traditional thinking folks. However, Kawasaki has been using nikasil bores in their dirt bikes and threewheeler since the early 1980's, so I am not sure how old you have to be in regard to my previous comment. :ermm:

I believe this is the key point in this discussion. To add a bit more find a good plating house for the nikasil procedure is not very easy. It is roughly similair in difficulty to finding a good heat treatment facility. :geek:

I like the black better. Your bike looks awesome!

MRD used to make a mechanical fuel injection kit for a Banshee. I am not sure if they still do. If you are willing to go to a DC electrical system with a battey then Haltech, Motech, PE, or dare I say a DIY Megasquirt kit can be very easily done. Special attention would need to be paid when selecting injectors, but I suspect something from the outboard marine industry could be found fairly reasonably. FYI: The latter is a project that is beyond a majority of the populous's ability. If you are willing to deal with the frustration involved in learning new things and having your bike out of commision while you are doing it, then it's a neat project. :geek:

The only real trade off here is the lead time on repair of a nikasil bore vs. the usually much faster turn around on machining a cast iron bore. The cooling is pretty much a wash between the two. If you are trying to get every last ounce of weight out of your bike then nikasil is the way to go. My personal preference is nikasil. ...........to poke at Brad a bit..............when was the last time you saw a steel sleeve? :biggrin:

I can post some pictures up when I get home, but that's next month. Shoot me a PM and remind me if no one has hooked y'all up before that. :thumbsup:

..............kick the machinist in the bean bag if your gears don't line up correctly? :biggrin:

This is correct. I suspect you will see one or two of those engines running at Laughlin in November. I noticed that the cases are being sold in a slightly modified manner on the front page of someone's website. Atleast it looks like the folks I sold it to are being fairly proactive about using the design and marketing it. I am glad that the project didn't die when I sold it. Otherwise, I might have had to kick myself for selling it. The frame I bought for that engine is getting the Twister engine that is collecting dust on my bench. :ermm:

Some people like gear "whine," but I don't know why.

I am working on it, sort of. I am actually stuck in Las Vegas on business for three weeks, hence, my parts buying ability is slightly hampered.

This really isn't a question of why is which one better, but it is a question of which is more appropriate for a given application. If you are making more than 100hp, then straight (involute tooth) gears are probably worth while as they offer less resistance and torsional load to their repective shafts. However, straight (involute tooth) gears generally hve more backlash, wear faster, and are much louder than helical tooth gears. If you don't drag race, make 100hp or more, or thing it's fun to make gears yourself, you don't need straight cut gears. Go over to PS and they will tell you that all bikes should have them and if you don't immediately spend $1k on them you are a loser......................, but then again that is Planet Sand and it's full of idiots with credit cards (which includes me). :geek:

This is why I never built myself a Cranker, or bought one. I believe one of Dave's friends shared 101 reasons why I should do something else. :thumbsup: