FireHead

To reiterate what Brandon said, make sure you inspect your cylinders before you do anything further. If you do not know how to measure them properly, ask one of us. :thumbsup:

You would not believe (maybe you would) what passes for an engine shop in local competition NASCAR country in the South. It's a dude with no teeth and a worn out morse taper drill press with a worn out boring head that was cheap even when it was new 60 years ago. Oh yeah,o and the drill press is usually sitting on a dirt floor out, in a shanty outside the speed shop. :ermm:

....................look one more picture. You actually get to see what you are getting for FREE before you get it.......................

Ok, here the deal. I am making another attempt to give something away on here, again. The last attempt with the Cascade taillight cover did not go so well. I think the mistake I made was that I was asking for two screws (that you would have to take out anyway) in trade for the cover. I think I was also offering to give the person who came to my house to get it, a beer. What I would like to give away is an OEM rear brake rotor for a Yamaha Banshee. It is in great shape and has been used very little. It is true, flat, and parallel. There is absolutely nothing wrong with it. All you have to do is come and get it from me, either at my work or at my house. If you come to my house, I will give you a beer. The catch is that I will not be home reliably until the middle to end of July, that is when you can arrange to get the rotor from me. I don't want to ship it, it's not worth my time, even if you pay for it. If this whole thing goes like that last time I tried to give something away, it will wind up on eBay. Now, let's see how badly y'all can screw this up. :thumbsup:

Where did you wind up getting it from? :geek:

I was still on the internet porn / masturbation station theme of jokes, but the coffee joke is funny too. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Once you start getting into short skirts you start asking for trouble when it comes to durability and reliability. <insert joke here> It is advantageous in a high rpm engine to have as little mass and friction as posible away from the crankshaft centerline. However, this also means your piston loses it's ability to guid itself among a myriad of other problems. I'll stop here before I go off on a rant about pistons that have nothing to do with Banshees. With regard to cylinder machining, I would agree with Brandon in that you need to pay special attention to your cylinder measurements. In general, I would say that Jim-Bob at your local machine shop (that calls a drill press a mill) can usually make a satisfactorily round hole, but they are usually tapered, off center, and wildly variant when it comes to bore diameter. Generations of imbreeding has also programmed the machine shop / mechanics to lie about all of this.

I have tried that, but I can't seem to get the keyboard clean with either of those programs.

1.5 thou would do it. If you still have the engines appart it might be worth putting in a new set of pistons.

Does it come with a left handed mouse? (small joke) Bamp for a good guy. :thumbsup:

Ok, I was under the impression that this was a newly built engine. In that case, I would run it until it blows. Even if it locks up, it's not like it will immediately seize and toss you over the bars. Engines don't really do the "stick in the bicycle spokes" thing like some people seem to think. :ermm:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXN...PMT4NO=23936132

Yeah, that is the thing I am looking for. Quite a few people have them, so either someone else is making them or Mattoon's website is incorrect.

I have done this. I have never heard of a cheap cut to length o-ring kit though. All of the kits I used are pretty expensive. You need to make sure the o-ring material is right for your application. Beyond that the o-rings on the domes are a different material than the reast of the o-rings for the head thus requiring a seperate kit and differently sized o-ring grooves. Past all that, it is not real easy ro get an o-ring to be the proper length using these kits. If you are retarded like me, it will take you three tries to get an o-ring to the proper length and have it function properly. The only reason to use a kit like this is if you are doing prototype work or are out in the middle of nowhere where there is no mail service. IMO if you have a standard cool head, buy the $20 o-ring kit from RMATV and be done with it. :geek:

Piston "chatter" as it seems to be referred to here is not really a good thing, but it can go on for a long time before anything bad happens. It really depends on how far of the bore size is compared to the piston as well as what type of cylider sleeve you have and what type of piston you have. If given the opportunity I would call bullshit on whoever machined the bore or put the engine together like that and tell them to do it over and make it right. :geek:

There is a defoinite fatigue life for the tread support matrix. It is a bit less than a normal pneumatic tire in "normal use" on the tire dyno. The technology and development behind that isn't quite there yet. When it gets there, you will see every military vehicle in the use arsenal rolling around on that type of tire and wheel system. On a side note, that system is alot more resilient to mine explosions.

About $3.50.

I agree. It just wasn't something I would have thought about unless someone else mentioned it.

http://www.mattoonmachine.com/cgi-bin/Matt...tml?id=L8ABPr2f It looks like it's listed on there to me.........................but, maybe I am imagining things. :ermm:

Cutting the spring does change the spring rate.............I excluded that from my previous statement as I figured that no one would want to do that. I believe the rest of that makes sense, but it still doesn't change the fact that cranking down the preload allows the suspension system to carry any more weight and byy cranking down the preload you are using up your spring travel. Something from another medium that you might compare preload to is the gain adjustment on a car stereo amplifier. I know that's a stretch, but there seems to be a need for an alternative explanation here. :geek:

It is not so much that it travels more before binding..............you will always have the same amount of shock travel. It is that you are indexing the spring to the shock body. Basically you are changing the ratio of spring up travel available vs. shock up travel available or vice versa. I think the big hang up here is that you have to buy into the fact that adjusting preload does not change the the rate (load capacity) of the spring. If a person is going to aregue about that, then I cannot help them. It's a straight, black and white fact. However, if you do believe otherwise I have a magic carburetor that runs on water that I would like to sell you.

I need to find a place to purchase one of the Mattoon (or look-a-like) rear master cylinder resvoirs that bolt straight to the rear master cylinder. Their website says it is still in the prototype stage, which is BS since a bunch of folks have them. Their phone was busy all day and I am kind of figuring they don't want my business that badly at this point. Where else can I buy one?

....................I think that may be the most general, uninformative statement ever made. :ermm:

This is true. I suspect you will find that I really don't like any crankshaft company. :geek:

My bad. I didn't see the word boot in there I guess. :ermm: