svtkid78

I had the same prob. When I rode it it was great but when I shifted to neutral it idled like a bitch. Not sure if it helps, but i didn't have enough freeplay in my throttle cable and it was holding my slides up a bit causing it to rev to the moon. Just something else to check. P.S. they are pretty fun bikes I have a 1987 as well with just a pipe and in mint condition.

Pretty ghetto but it aint the worst. Good little trick.

You can test the primary and secondary resistance of the coil. Primary being lead to lead and secondary being the same. that does not necessarily tell you whether it is good or bad with out a dynamic tester. secondary is the spark plug cap side. Primary side is the side with the wires

I am talking about the needle jet it is also referred to as an emulsion tube

Just order a chain for a banshee if its too big cut out some links. 14 tooth sprocket doesn't make a difference.

Damn, I just know that I had four of them on my bike. Sounds like they gave me some extra stuff on mine. I just finished putting mine together like 30 mins ago and i'm positive I had 4 of them.hmmmm

I just rebuilt bike and had four on mine. One was cracked pretty bad and replaced it.

When I give it gas the emulsion tube is lifting up off is seat. Why

They look pretty good, maybe a little little bit lean. Looks like its runnin pretty good though. Wish I could get mone looking like that.

You can weld the cases if you do have a crack.

It is up to you did you take the bike apart to fix it or to put it together broken? While your at it get a straight cut gear.

There is supposed to be four of them. Those damn things are like $12.80 a piece at the stealership.

I like putting it in the frame assembled. If you are worried about the frame wrap it like cotton eye, but I have found it easier to reassemble out of the frame. Just put the rear engine mount bolt in first. It's easier then to get the front in.

You pretty much nailed it on losing some bottom end. You will feel a considerable amount of power difference though. If you don't want to lose any bottom and still have gains i would go with a 2 into 1 carb.

Make sure you drain all of your old mix out before switching

Check and make sure you have enough throttle freeplay. That was my prob with the same symptoms.

Has anybody picked up a set yet. If so you like or no.

If you go to duncanracing.com enter the site then go to tech center and their is a link in there for break in procedures or you can follow the one in the clymer manual.

Just got rid of tors. New cable is extremly hard to push in. Anyone ever cut the return spring down alittle to ease up tension. Seems like the spring is really binding up like they are too long. If you take the caps off and let them hang the slides with the springs on point toward like 3 o clock instead of straight down like before. aNY ADVICE HELPS.

Never mind got it thanks.

BEsides that to (by hand)

Anyone with any handy hints on getting new circlips in. Besides covering up holes and to putting them in running up and down with the rod.

Sounds like an electrical problem after the wires get hot maybe one is expanding and not making contact anymore. Try to post in the suzuki forum somewhere maybe you get more help. If you don't ask banshee questions you tend to get overlooked. Definatly something heating up and not doing its job.

They don't stock it cause most of the time you have to take more than .010 off just to repair and freshen up your cylinders. It is kind of silly to just bore something only .010 not even really worth the work. Boring is actually a good name for it cause it is boring to do about 50 cylinders a day. Going 20 thous. is not even much of a step up, but a good freshen up bore.

Try posting in the repair and mod forum. Also is you choke tube hooked up, and your carbs synched right, as well as the idle adjustment. It may be flooded from you trying to start it so much. Any fuel in the pipes. Air screws right?