prichard9966

don't waste your money on a 50. it will be outgrown in a matter of minutes. lt-80's are the way to go. super reliable good runners

when i first got my 03 i bought t6's with the 2:1 filter. i put it together and checked my plugs. everything showed lean so i richened it up. i do have quite a few friends i ride alot with who run 280's, no lids, & t5's in temps from 20 degrees to 100 at about 600ft. the second i'd go out at 20 degrees and lay the hammer down on 280's i'd be walking the rest of the way no doubt.

the idea behind the grinding is to make the spring smaller in diameter hence making it a softer spring. trying to do that would be a real pain in the ass and cutting them sucks too. get some from f.a.s.t. i need to order some myself. replacement with a softer spring is the way to go. terrycable makes a sweet thumb/twist combo with a lockout. i've been thinking about that for awhile. it would be real nice for the long rides even with the softer springs

i'm just speaking from my experience. i tried two sets of shearer's and the left side fit so bad i couldn't run them. right side fit fine. the chrome on my cpi's is a lot nicer and they bolted right on and don't rub shit. i didn't have any problems at all with the fit. so if there are lots of crappy fitting cpi's out there then they need to step it up too. i believe in taking pride in your work. if your going to do something do it right or find a new career. i wasn't trying to be a spokesperson for the fit of cpi. i was just sharing with all of you my disappointment in the shearer. if this makes me a "fucking fool" then you know what the indians say.......fug em'

my shearers fit so bad i bought cpi's instead. if your going to build pipes make them f$$king fit! you'd think after making a thousand of them you might get it right but NO lets keep making pipes that fit worse than any other. FIX THE JIG DICKS!

i run yamalube at 32:1 with some amoco premium in all my bikes, weed eater,chain saw and mower. i run it at 36:1 with some 110 leaded in my passion motor. i really like the stuff but thats me

just get some tubing and find a buddy with a welder. they will fit perfect and be cheap

four strokes require accelerator pumps which two strokes do not have

pull the needle all the way out of the hole and see what happens

you could check your compression just to make sure you don't have too much

i got my cpi's through passion racing. the chrome on mine is real decent. i'd have to believe you could find a set with a better finish than a fatty. it's a shame all pipes can't have the fit and finish of the toomey's. you will like your cpi's performance anyway. my buddy just got a set of out of frame shearers and they hit his frame too.

i tried to run shearer's. i tried two sets both hit my frame and head. the right side fit fine. the left side was just awful. ended up getting cpi's. the fit and finish was a thousand times better. the chrome on the shearer's sucks. they might pull like a mother but i will never know.

i have a kawasaki kfx-80 and a suzuki lt-80. they are both built by suzuki and exactly the same. they are two stroke powered, have lots of aftermarket parts available(pipes and lots of good shit), they use a cv trans so your kids don't have to worry about shifting, and they're fun as hell to ride. i would recommend them to anyone who likes two stroke power and a reliable quad.

if the cylinders are coming off port it. why buy pistons to do what a good port job will far surpass. work some overtime and spend a few bucks. your smile will be much bigger.

the boss intake is a super sweet billet piece. it has no tubes, hoses, or bottles to leak or cause problems and makes for a clean install. for these reasons i prefer it to other designs.

screw the half and half shit. pick one and roll with it

all pipes will blue some. if they don't your probably too rich

i've used many of them in cars and trucks over the years to fix blown out plugs and wasted threads. they work just as good in a spark plug application as they do in anything else. use grease on your tap to try and catch as many of the filing's as possible. on my two-stroke i think i would rather have the head off.

heh loco, i think you should have thrown like a 60 in it even if it was rich at idle and seen how the midrange was. i can't imagine why you'd have such a dead spot unless you were lean. i hope you have better luck this time!

my experience: i read on this site for months and talked to lots of people before i decided who was going to port my cylinders. i called and talked to jim. he was real easy to talk to. (and not one to ever blow you off) anyway i got the +4 12 port. i didn't have enough cash to get some bigger carbs right then so on went the stockers. you couldn't wipe the smile off my face or anyone who rode it for that matter. the bottom and mid is what really set this motor apart from the others. i've rode lots of ported banshees with peaky powerbands no power/all power shit happening. this motor pulls smooth and hard from the bottom to the top. the bottom is incredible for the power it makes up top. anyway, i bought some 35mm pwk's and i'm still fucking with them. i've tried lots of different jets. the only time this motor would bog like loco's is if i ran between a 45-48 pilot. i made one run with a 42 and pulled it right back in the shop.( it didn't seem to bog, i was on flat land though but it sounded like a vacuum) pay attention to tone while jetting. the only reason i was trying those lean pilots was because i have a slight rich condition just off idle like a 1/16th to 1/8th maybe into the throttle with these carbs. it's fine otherwise only sucks when i'm putzin'. i know for a fact my problems are only jetting issues not jim's port work. if i ever build another motor it will go straight to jim. his porting is top notch. if you want your motor to pull hard the whole way he's the man. feel the passion

i believe you can change the seal on the flywheel side but the one on the clutch side has a lip all the way around it. it will not pound into the case. my buddy and i just had this problem. he didn't want to pull the motor and split the case to change it. so we took a razor blade and removed the center rib from the seal. you must thoroughly clean the seal cavity with a clean rag and brake cleaner. put a thin layer of silicone on the circumfrence of the seal cavity and seal. install the seal. maybe wipe a little extra on the front once it is in. then let it dry for a minimum of 24 hours. this trick will work but like i said before brake cleaner and a clean rag are your friend. silicone works great but the surfaces have to be perfectly clean. carb cleaner leaves a residue.

the passion motor truly rips. jim is a great guy. don't be scared!

i'm kickin' 230 psi @ 600ft.

the thing that sucks about it is if you want to do a re-torque after a warm-up cycle. then the loc-tite is fighting against you.

the oil will aerate while riding (bubbles all over stick) and after it sits for a while all the air escapes and your oil looks fine. if this is what your experiencing it's perfectly normal. if you truly have coolant in there i would think you could tell. loosen your drain plug slowly. if there is any water in it after sitting and seperating it will be the very first thing to come out. if there was alot of coolant in there it would make a total milkshake and you would definitely know.