J-Madd

Damn Art, that's a smokin deal. Should sell pretty quick. Goin even bigger? Bump for a good running motor and a good guy.

92 mph with 14/38 gearing??? You have to be rapping 10,500 rpms or have some tall tires.

Have you ridden a 421 Cub? What's the fastest/most powerful fourwheeler that you've ridden? If your gettin' off of a stockish Banshee and then onto a 600+cc Banshee please be careful. Even a good running alky 421 will make a piped Banshee feel like a tricycle going backwards. The 421 is a good "entry level" build as well as the most bang for your buck. Once your comfortable riding that you could always sell it and upgrade. Just a thought.

RE:tuning I was making the assumption that the pilots and mains were already pretty close on the Keihns, then just dialing in with the power jet. Main jet size, imo is not very critical with the power jet installed (as long as it is not too small), imo. I ran keihns on my 14 mil drilled out to 0.118" and the same ones drilled out to 0.125" (drilled them out by mistake, sort of - long story) and it ran identical e.t.s at the track even though the big difference in the main. Just leaned the needles out, and tuned with the power jet. I'm gonna run the Lectrons on my 10 mil anyway, but I'm still a hater

Good idea I agree. Also, HP and 300 ft times are similar with a drag ported 4 mil and a stock stroke 68 mm cub (at least the ones that I've had.). The stock cylinder 4 mil should have a little more bottom end.

A 611 (16 mil Cheetah) would be a handful as a duner that's for sure. Your talking ~ 150 hp. Note that you would almost never want to put that engine in a stock chassis. Throw a 4 mil Cub (421 cc) or a 4mil Cheetah powervalve in a stock chassis with upgraded suspension, swingarm, etc and you would have a perfect duner/hill shooter. If you look around you can find complete Cub engines for sale that already have an override transmission and lockup in them that would be pretty much bolt-on and go.

Ok. So my friends are invited to my party, then I join a match and they will automatically follow, or do we all click on join a match (or whatever it says)to stay together? PS3 btw. Is there a way to find friends that are already in a match?

I was wondering if anyone knew how to play this game with people on your friend's list (besides a private match.) When I start an online game, then send invites, the room is already full before my buddies can get in. Is there a way where we can all join together? Or where I can go and find my friends without them sending me an invite (like on Socom)?

Did you every try to turn the shift drum with pliers? I don't know that a bent fork will cause all of the issues that you describe. Usually you just can't get into a particular gear, not failure to shift altogether, in my experience. Can you turn the transmission shaft, or is it locked up? Any metal in the oil when you drained it? Kinda hard to tell unless you have a magnetic plug.

I have heard that as well. I even went through the trouble of breaking it in on cheap oil that I use for my weedeater. I don't mess with that anymore. I have been told by several builders to just break it in on the same ratio and oil that you will be running, as mentioned.

I agree with that. (Packard Lectrons are $600 btw)

What carbs are on it? If you don't know, post some pics up. Your probably better off putting some stock carbs back on it and running gas, but you need to locate the problem first.

You'll need a 32 mm socket to get the basket off. It's kinda hard to tell whats going in there until you get the basket out of the way. THe shift shaft could be bent. Does the shifter return to center after attempting to shift? Have you tried rocking the bike back in forth in gear while trying to shift (I'm sure you have, just thought I'd ask.) Don't remember for sure, but I think the side cover is what keeps the shift shaft from moving outward like you have described. Try turning the shift drum with some pliers to see if the drum or shift forks are the problem or if it is the shift shaft.

Pics of the ones I've seen don't at all resemble Shearers. Closer to CPIs, but definitely not a copy. I have read good things about those pipes, though have no personal experience with them.

What are you expecting out of this motor? What kind of riding? TO answer the questions: +4 mil will fit fine without trenching the cases...long rod or short rod makes no difference there. I have also heard that the +5 mil will fit, but that would be a rare, probably more expensive build. Short rod vs. long rod: Long rod eases the side load on the piston, therefore theoretically increasing longevity vs. the short rod. Some claim that the short rod motors rev quicker, due to decreased rotating mass. This has not been proven. I'd go with long rod.

15/42 works pretty good.

Mine are now gravity fed (new float seats and billet bowls [along with new nikasil, new pistons, new crank bearing, new domes, etc.]),but yet to be run. I think the pumper carbs are what more have had problems with (though some have had zero issues.)

Oh man I've got a long horror story with brand new, "already setup", out of the box Packard Lectrons . On a brand new, pressure tested 10 Mil Cub burned a plug strap every pass due to not getting enough fuel. Overflowed the bowls constantly (pumper carbs). Took them to Packard personally (at the Planet Sand Race in Gilbert) he alledgedly set the needles for me..said they were too lean. (But this is the way he sent them to me in the first place??!!!) Next pass, burned another plug strap. So Packard says: "swap carbs left to right and see if the problem follows." Before I could say what a dumbass idea that was (how many fucking plug straps can you burn before you grenade a motor ) hes says, take them back off and we'll drill them out bigger. So I think he means he's gonna drill out the power jet, right? He drills out the little useless bell on the end of the power jet. Next pass plugs are black as charcoal, but no burned strap. These burned plugs were the $8/each iridiums. Cost me about $40 in damn spark plugs in 5 passes. I talked to many at the track and they had similar issues with the Lectrons not providing enough fuel. So they drilled out the powerjet and all the barbs on the pj and the bowl. Sorry for the rant. Cam, I know lots of the fast guys run Packard Lectrons and love them, just wanted to share my experience with them. After my experience I will always be a Lectron hater, I guess .

Mine neither . My wife almost put gas in mine once. Don't think my warranty would've covered that.

The poor quality and the poor hardware (flat head screws that look like something you would use to hang a picture on the wall) cannot be understated. Lots of the fast guys at the track run them, but I hate them. When you turn the needle, one may move farther than the other (so I've heard.) Hell, they may not even be all cast the same size or the needles identical in taper or length . If you put a power jet on a Keihn and have the right needle in there, I don't see why the lectron is easier to tune. I personally know of some dyno tests on a 7 mil Cub where the Keihns picked up 7 hp. On another motor, the Lectrons made more peak hp on SOME pulls, but were inconsistent, whereas the Keihns were consistent from pull to pull, and not far off of the best pull with the Lectrons.

If your lucky, you can use a punch and get the rod out and save the tranny shaft. I've seen some that will come right out with a magnet without splitting the cases, some that can be punched out (after splitting the cases) and some that couldn't be removed with a jackhammer. Might as well put in new seals, and definitely a pancake bearing while you've got it apart. Remember that you don't have to take to top end apart to do this. Doesn't take that long to do it really.

I agree. You WILL notice better times a the track if you get it tuned and not run pig rich, however. But if you get it lined out, keep an eye on the air density. I use an air density guage so I can keep an eye on it as it cools off. Sometimes it gets cooler at night, but the humidity will increase, actually making the air density (read = amount of oxygen in the air) worse. I will be the first to admit that I never run any of mine on the ragged edge and will never get every last bit of out of them, but it can be done safely. I'll never go back to gas.

yeah, I've got some uncut, and you might as well be running slicks. They won't even hook on a 4 stroke. How did you cut yours loco? I don't have a tire groover, or anything.

That's really too vague to answer, you have to do more than just bolt on either of those to make power That being said, the Cheetah Cub is the better cylinder right out of the box. I believe that the T-Rex needs some porting. The Cub is basically a drag race, top end power producing cylinder. If that's not what your wanting, then go with ported stockers.