J-Madd

Short story. New Dirt Digger Clutch. Rode about 6 times. Sunday the clutch went completely out. (Slips very badly. Still tons of tension on cable though.) I didn't adjust the clutch from the inside of the case when I installed it. Is this the problem? What else could be wrong? I have a new clutch ordered and want to ride this weekend, and need to order any other parts that may need replacing. I haven't had time to open the cover yet. Thanks

My clutch is begining to slip a little and I want to replace it before it gets any worse. What is a good clutch to purchase and where should I buy it? Thanks

I'll have to try #350s. I have every jet listed from magicracing.com. #350 seems to be the biggest size. Is there somewhere else I can look? Also: Which carb is supposed to have the brass tube in the bowl? I know I haven't switched them, but they could have been switched when I got it, just like the slides were. Thanks Banchetta, sheeweet, spoin39.

Don't the lights run off of a different coil than the stator that supplies the plugs? I've never been into a Banshee, but on a Blaster there are two coils (I think..hell its been 12 years since I tore apart a Blaster).

You don't have to remove the tank or the carbs to take the slides out. Well....you might if you still have TORS; I didn't think about that. Those tops are kind of bulky. I know for sure on a Blaster you can take the TORS tops out without removing the tank or carb.

HOles in lid: about 8 half quarter in diameter holes evenly spaced along the top. But I will cut the 1.5'' end off, as you recommend. I had to get the T5s, I love top end too much, and they will still have lots more midrange and low end than stock. Ya'll may see 'em back on ebay if I don't like them.

After you remove the slides (carburetor tops) : You have to push the spring against the cap. Then you can turn the slide upside down and shake it and the throttle cable lock will fall out. Then push the cable into the slide, and move the slide to the side to release the cable from its holder, and allow the spring to be removed. Then remove the screws holding the needle in the slide. Pull the needle out and you will see the clip. Use some needle nose pliers the pull it off and put it back in the appropriate notch. I just did this for the first time a couple days ago and its very easy. I also had help from my newly purchased Clymer's manual. I didn't know where to start either. Be careful, the needle clip may go flying if you don't have a grip on it with the pliers. I lost one of mine, but went to Autozone and bought a whole pack of E-clips for about 2.00. To put the needle back in, simply drop it through the top of the slide. The clip will rest between the slide and the piece that you screw back into the top of the slide. As far as the putting the cable back in. I just compressed the spring with my hands, slid the cable back in its notch. As long as you keep tension on the cable, it will stay in the notch until you can get the cable lock back in place. You can just line the cable lock up (with the narrow side facing up) and drop it right into place. Yoy may have to shake the slide a bit to get it to fall. The most important thing for me was to keep tension on the trottle cable, so it wouldn' t pop out before I got the lock in place. Good luck.

Never mind about the pipes.........I just bought some T5s on ebay. I need to know where to start with jets. Current Air/Fuel settings: air screw 1.5 turns out. #25 pilots, 240 mains, needle clip (soon to be) at 3rd position. Mods: K&N, holes drilled in airbox lid, Boyesen Pro Series Reeds, Boyesen Rad Valve Reed Cage. Elev: 300 ft Temp when I get the pipes: hell......could be 50 or could be 15 the way the weather has been around here. We'll say 45 degrees. I won't ride if its any colder. Thanks for any info. I think "Jetting FAQ" says I'll need around 340 mains, but I'm not sure.

Someone suggested magicracing.com to me. I live in the sticks too. I ordered jets from them UPS ground and had them in about 4days.

I can't thank everyone enough for the help. I plan to get pipes ASAP, get it jetted, then put in my new Wisecos, I want to get the jetting dialed in on the old pistons, before I put the new ones in. I ride trails and climb some hills, but I LOVE top-end and acceleration. What pipes should I get? I know Toomeys are killer on top end, but I heard that they lack a little on bottom. The way I ride, I like to "keep it on the pipe" anyway. Wouldn't T5s or T6s be ok if I keep it at high revs most of the time anyway? By the way, the needle clip is now on the 2nd notch from the blunt end. I'm gonna put it back to the 3rd pos. I'll do a plug check when I get a chance, and dial in my mains. Thanks again

It runs great now. I raised the needle clip position, put in 240 mains, air screws 1.5 turns out. It screams through every gear. EXCEPT now its too lean at all throttle ranges. I think I could even go bigger on the mains. I haven't done a plug chop, but it sounds and feels lean at WOT. It is also lean at idle to 1/4, and 1/4 to 3/4. Running MC1 @ 40:1 and no smoke coming out of the pipes once the motor gets warm. It definitely does NOT sputter at any part of the throttle. What do ya'll think about going to 27.5 on the pilots, 250 on the mains, and moving the needle clip back down a notch? (Reminder: my only mods are K&N, airbox with holes in lid and snorkel removed, Boyesen Power Valves and Pro Series Reeds.)

I've got the sputtering problem fixed. The slides were in the wrong carbs. It was like that when I got it. I switched 'em and all is good.

Just thought I'd let ya'll know. I think the slides ARE in the wrong carbs. I put them back in the same way they came out. I think they were in wrong since I bought it. The cut away portion of the slides were towards the cylinders, not towards the airbox. Isn't that the opposite of what it should be? I'll put in my 240s and fix the slides and let ya know.

I just received my Doctor of Pharmacy degree last year. Not exactly a Doctorate, but good enough for me. (And so far plenty of $$$$$$$$$$$$)

Well, yeah sputtering, not bogging now that I think about it. The RPMs still increased, but it sputtered. You are correct once again.

And there it is.....except he said to raise the needle clip pos. Hey Banchetta, I thought that would richen the circuit?

Mine does about the same thing. Its probably too rich in one of the circuits. Putting in the new reed cage even richened up the middle circuit more. Banchetta told me to lower my needle clip position. I haven't done it yet so I don't know if it will work . He'll probably answer this post anyway.

They looked sync'ed, but i didn't loosen the throttle cable at the handlebars first. I guess I could try checking the synchronization with a loose cable if it still doesn't run right after I put the jets in.

Believe it or not, it actually idles fine. This may be because I set the idle with my throttle cable. It holds the slides up. I'll stay with a stock pilot and raise my needle clip pos. and put in 240s when I get em.

I just spent 250+ on FMF Power Valve cages and carbon fiber Power Series dual stage reeds and couldn't tell a lick of difference (but my jetting wasn't perfect before or after installation)....Just my 0.02

I think a stock Banshee is a stepping stone for a modified one. What if someone had only rode 400EXs and other four-stroke crap like that and hopped on a tricked out "stock" Banshee? Hell, then FMF and Toomey could still make money selling shitty pipes to slow the bastard down so four stroke riders could handle it! As it stands now, an experienced rider of slower quads, can jump on a stock Banshee and not be completely overwhelmed. Oh yeah...and I also believe in the conspiracy that Yamaha gets kickbacks for FMF, etc.

I broke in a (stock) Blaster once by just letting it idle for 20 minutes at a time, along with riding it a little bit.....just enough to get the engine warm and then shut it off. That Blaster ran better and the piston lasted longer than any I had done before.I wonder if that would work for a Banshee, provided it would idle? Of course your's won't idle. What about an oil that can be used at a leaner mixture such as Bel Ray MC1 (at about 32:1 for break-in) or Amsoil (I don't know a good ratio for break-in, I've never used it)? Just a thought

Thanks for the suggestion, but the slides are in the correct carbs. The reason I know is because it took forever to get the suckers back in. I had to pull the carbs back off and hold the needles straight to get them to fall into the main. On other bikes I had been able to drop the slides right in as long as the groove on the side was in the correct alignment. As for the idle screw I lost.......I got hasty and ordered the entire kit again (both screws, tap, etc) and blew 30 bucks, plus shipping. I couldn't think of anywhere to buy that one screw, and didn't want to take the time to have it made at a machine shop.

I was gonna buy T6s, but if the price is right, I may be interested in yours.

Banchetta, But the sputterring occurred before I installed the reeds. I will lower the needle postition and let ya know. The screw IS the idle screw. I have the TORS removed. I didn't make that clear. I'll have to order the Idle screw and the jets. So here's what ya'll are telling me so far: (feel free to make corrections) 1. Go up in main jet size (240 or so). 2. MOve needle clip to 2nd position. 3. Increase pilot to 30? Another note: what is the purpose of the idle screws...............couldn't you just idle both carbs by tightening the throttle cable.......I've always wondered that, b/c I leave my screws pretty far out, which is low idle, and tighten the throttle cable to idle it up. I'm sure there is a real obvious answer. Feel free to enlighten me anyone. Thanks all