J-Madd

I'm not sure of the etiquette of this forum........should I assume these items have been sold since it has been about three weeks since the last post? I may want the cool head w/domes if available.

I'll give ya $150 for them (if I can see some pics) if they're still available.

Happens all the time. after it breaks in two, you can overlap the pieces of rubber and screw a new screw through the rubber and all just above (or below) where it cracked. It'll hold for a long time or at least until you get new ones

FYI: I had to weld the puller to the stock flywheel...I stripped the threads out of the flywheel puller..what a piece of crap. I'm about to advance my timing and put my pwk 30s on.

I just ordered a flywheel and puller from Ricky Stator overnight delivery. I hope I didn't ruin my crank. What are my best options if I did? Definitely not buying OEM..may even buy another banshee. I don't like the thought of paying for and installing a crank..

F'in kicking myself in the balls as we speak! I also have some 30mm PWKs to put on this weekend, but looks like I won't be ridin'...can't get a new flywheel overnight. thanks everyone

I was going to advance my timing, but couldn't get my flywheel off. I couldn't find my Clymers and forgot about the special flywheel puller needed. I used a gear puller from an auto parts store. I tightened the puller down with a pipe wrench until it bent!! I also chipped a tiny piece off of the outer rim of the flywheel. Will this throw it out of balance enough to screw it up??

Check the water pump seal (behind the impeller). It only takes a few drops of water in oil to turn it grey, so you may not notice any missing from the radiator. If it is white, then lots of water is in there, then you would notice some missing.

Walmart only had Penzoil .....its non-synthetic. I'm just gonna use it. I'm not gonna be ridin' hard, and everyone agrees that you need friction at break-in. It sounds to me that the crappier the oil, the better the rings seat.......I could use th e oil that came with my weed-eater!!!/jk If this is an absolutely horrible mistake, let me know. It'll be tommorrow before I check back, though.......I'm headin' to my shop to to put 'er back together and begin some heat cycles. Thanks

That makes sense to me...absolutely. I will either put #360 mains in or put a whole lid back on if I can't get #360s (don't have any.........ordered from magic racing and biggest they have is #350s). I think there's a cycle shop 20 miles away that has them. Any other tips from anyone? thanks all.

How do I do a plug test with a "new" engine I haven't put it back together yet, and am not sure how to do a plug test w/out going to WOT. Don't want to go to WOT on new piston obviously, (I have T5 (FIVE)s NOT t6s, (typo)

Regular CASTROL (aka weedeater, chainsaw, outboard 2-stroke oil) protects too much? Its what I put in my pontoon boat. Its not synthetic. I live 20 miles from nearest dealer, and don't want to drive 40 miles for oil. But if it is the concensus of this forum that Castrol (not CasTOR) will not allow the rings to seat, then I'll make the drive, as I trust ya'll completely.

I can't get any Yamalube now, but I'll probably use Castrol. It seems similar in consistency and viscosity. Mix at 24:1?????????. What do ya'll think?

I have a fresh top end w/wiseco prolites and had the jugs ported and polished. I HAD been running #350 mains and #30 pilots and 1 notch lean from the middle needle clip. I had never done a plug chop with the #350s, but it ran rough with the lid on, so I cut the last 1/4 or so off (per Banchetta's recommendation)and it ran great, so I figured it was jetted ok. MODS: K&N w/lid cut as described above. T6s (correction: T5s) Boyesen Rad Valve and Pro Series Reeds. Wiseco Prolites (Now) Ported/Polished (Now) tHANKS

I have heard you can't use synthetic oil for break-in. I broke in a Blaster a loooonnnnnggg time ago and it held up great. I need help. Breaking in this weekend. I only have access to cheap oils, besides synthetics.

It was rebuilt before he bought it. What goes in to rebuilding a crank? Rod and crank bearings? He can't afford a new crank. What's the cheapest way to get him back on the road?

Thanks reas11, does grand river racing have a website?

A rebuilt motor with about 4 hours on it locked up. Took it apart and one cylinder head and piston was pitted and covered in metal shavings. Rod bearings seem to have a lot of play. There are scars on the skirt of the piston as well. Could bad rod bearings cause this damage? {This is not my Banshee}

No one knows where to buy bearings, other than from the dealer? (Magicracing doesn't have them)

Where can I buy bearings? OEM parts are ridiculous!!@!!!

I tore it down. I could smell burned clutch plates as soon as I opened the clutch cover. I don't think there is any other damage. I'll put in the new clutch and make the proper adustments this time. (Any hints other than lining up the marks on the crankcase and the lever that pushes the push-rod (don't know what its called))? Thanks

I didn't see a tab on the aftermarket plates. They where all the same. If they are NOT all the same. That IS my problem. Do the Barnett plates have tabs that have to be set 60 degrees apart? Hell, I HOPE thats what it is. I've burned the clutch, but its easy to fix. Thanks everyone for your input, and for any additional info.

What else could be wrong?

I soaked them in oil. I also (in a rush to ride that day) put regular castrol 10w -30 in the crankcase. I had always ran that in other bikes w/out any problems. I have ordered some Maxima crankcase oil for the new clutch.