J-Madd

I'm sure that something could be done to improve emissions, with some R&D. Even if it detuned them (even more), we're just gonna put pipes, etc. on them anyway.

Looks like a 1987 with heel guards to me, lol.

Does that thing run, or is it just for looks? Looks scary to me. The wheelie bar is awful short. Definitely a lot of time and money in that build. I wish they would reimburse me for some damaged Cheetah base gaskets that they shipped ups in a freakin' padded envelope. I paid shipping to send them back...still no money F - trinity.

Re-reading your post, I bet the previous owner had a 35mm carb on there, and threw the 32mm on when he sold it. You don't see many 32 mm 2 into 1 setups (or any 32 mm carbs for that matter), I don't think. The carb is probably not even close to being jetted correctly for your motor...

I had a carb that liked to drop the main jet in the carb bowl. Ran fine up to 3/4 throttle, but when it was pinned, sputtered terribly. The needle controls most of the fuel delivery off-idle up to 3/4 throttle. If you had no main jets, I'd guess the previous owner took off the carbs he was running and had those carbs lying around, and put them on there. I've got a few sets of carbs that I've robbed a jet or 2 out of without remembering.

You can eliminate a piece of the wiring harness to further rule out a possible short. The CDI will plug directly into the stator plug. You may not want to leave it like that, especially if you have lights, but you could try to start it with the CDI hanging from the plug. Probably not the problem, but it's quick and easy to check.

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

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They're all the same..no way to tell that I know of. Doesn't matter anyway...a well built, clean '87 is as good as a newer '06. I'd be wondering why the VIN was ground off..only one reason to do that.

When you checked the timing, did actually pull the flywheel off? The key could be sheared, or key way screwed up. I have a flywheel with the key way wollered(sp?) out, but you can't tell by looking. It will get out of time, then you can loosen, and re tighten the flywheel slowly and put it back in time. I kicked the crap out, and it would only occasionally kick back and backfire when out of time. Replaced the flywheel and all is good.

I trail rode mine for 2 years without the screws before I turned it into to a drag racer. I've adjusted the idle at the bars on all my atvs (YFZs, Banshees), except my drag racers. They don't idle, but I don't care.. The YFZ does have a shorter throttle cable that occasionally will rev the motor up with a turn of the bars, but I never had a problem with a Banshee, as long as the cable was routed properly.

For the cost, a pingel is a POS. Its hard to believe that no body else makes a petcock. How hard could it be? If the pingel was $35, it would be acceptable, but $80+ is steep, but we all buy them anyway. :biggrin:

If it says its for a wet clutch, it should be fine. I don't think you actually need synthetic oil, though. I don't think the problem with the Banshee oil is that it breaks down, so much as it builds up clutch fibers and tiny metal fragments. Synthetic may not be any better for tranny oil. Just my opinion.

Go ahead and advance it on the timing plate also..and run race gas with your assumed compression with 19 cc domes.

Who said anything about running WOT for 40 - 50 seconds? He didn't say that. And when I said it took "forever" to get 84 mph, I didn't mean damn near a minute. Maybe a half mile, and how ever many seconds that took...don't know. I'm not disagreeing with you however. You make a terrific point. :thumbsup:

Stock gearing on most is 14/41, but that's about right on mph. I had a 16 tooth front on a piped Bansee, and it went 84 mph on pavement, gps. It took forever to get there, though. As a rule of thumb, I think it's 6 mph for each additional tooth on the front sprocket, providing the engine can pull the higher gear. 16 was too much, really

I agree.

Also, get rid of the 13 tooth front sprocket. Try 14/41. Stock gearing works great for your set up.

Launch with your ass setting on the grab bar, if you're not already.

I don't see why not. You can spray a stocker as long the crank is trued and welded, I'd guess. If you can tune it, I say go for it.

It's a lot of work, but you can polish them to look like chrome. Just wipe them down with wd-40 after you ride to prevent rust.

It's generally not recommended, but people do run alky and nitrous together. I have no personal experience with it, only what I have read. "They" say that its very difficult to jet it correctly running both. Some say its almost impossible to get it right. You could always try nitromethane.. Either way, I'd definitely do some reading on this before trying. Probably have to go to Planet Sand to get the info you need.

"Banshee purpose" is kinda like your "special purpose*" you'll know what its for when it happens. (*reference: "The Jerk")

No reason you shouldn't be out of gear with 14/42 in the 8th mile with 20 inch tires. 0.477 reaction time is not bad, the 60 ft time is horrible. Your just spinning the tires all the way down the track.

Make sure the carbs are sync'd, then just use the throttle cable adjuster on the handle bars to idle it. NO problem not having the idle screws in my experience.