909

the 03 and 04 is a blaster with banshee plastics. 05 banshee is supposed to be a badger with raptor plastics though!

The return line is the one connecting to the top of the radiator. Yes they work if you get the big one. Ebay ones are cheap enough to run one on the top hose and one on the bottom.

PM me in the morning and i'll check availability. We can get 'em but need to check stock from Wiseco.

Stock bore is 64mm, they go up in .5mm increments up to 66mm. A competent shop should be able to do the boring, honing, and get you hooked up with a good piston set, wrist pin bearings, and gasket set. Check the head for major damage from piston schrapnel too. You will need to clean out the bottom end as well if the piston came apart. Depending on budget you could replace all the bottom end seals to be sure its not leaking. If you wash out the bottom end and not replace the seals i'd say a leakdown before firing the new setup would be mandatory. You don't want to blow up the new stuff if the bottom end was leaking all along. Good Luck!

Take 2 of the nuts from the cylinder bases, put 1 on upside down so the washer is facing away from the case, put the other opposite so the 2 flat flanged sides of the nuts are touching. Put a wrench on both and tighten them together. Put a wrench on the bottom nut and turn lefty loosey. Spray a bit of liquid wrench on the base of the stud first to loosen up any crud in there. when you're done, clean the crap off the threads and put 'em back in but righty tightie!

The lean condition on that boot prolly already smoked a hole in the side of the piston already. You'll be able to clean ann the sand out while you're redoing the top end. Good Luck!

more info before I get slammed with the pipe manufacturers claims above. The 57% claimed gain is not peak over stock. Manufacturers will use any number largest to sell their exhaust. If you do the math, it won't add up but here is what they're doing. They will claim a 5% gain on bottom, 20% midrange and 30% gain on top as being 55%. Also, they may claim a 18 HP "PEAK" gain on a pipe. If you look at a HP curve, the new pipe may be 18% higher than stock but its at 8000 RPM where the stocker already fell off at 6000RPM. If you look at the actual curve you'll clearly see that the stock pipe is setup where people are going to actually ride within the RPM range, 3-6000 RPM. To keep noise levels down at WOT you lose the very top end by being restrictive. Its a give and take thing for the manufacturers in these cases. Aftermarket gives a rats ass about the noise restrictions for new manyfactured bikes so they uncork the thing, thus showing an 18HP gain at 7900RPM (DMC is actually a 14HP gain) just before the rev limiter kicks in. Not to say the manufacturer is lying or your buddy, its just not a realistic claim. Peak HP is achieved stock at 5800RPM stock and DMC is at 6500RPM If you take PEAK horse power at stock and compare it to PEAK HP on DMC you'll see a 6HP gain. Look at 5800 (Stock Peak) and DMC at the same RPM and you'll see there is a 4HP gain, at 6500 RPM (DMC Peak) and there is an 8HP gain. Which figure do you use to sell your pipes? If you're the manufacturer, you'll use which ever one is the absolute highest! Look at the dyno chart and edumacate yourself instead of purely looking at claims. They publish this info, they just quote only certain parts of it.

DMC claims a 6HP gain on the 450F. Thats with their jet kit. They do say that its 57% more but 1000% of 0 is still 0 There is a 5 lb. weight savings though which does equate to more usable horsepower in real life and no dyno can test that. If the pipe manufacturer is using that figure I can see where they're trying to claim this gain. Stop drinking so much bneer when on a riding trip and you'll see the same gain though. If your buddy doesn't understand power to weight, send him over and i'll drag against that 450 in my 80cc shifter cart.

RZ has a tach. You'll need to run the RZ Stator because thats where the hookup is for it. You're better off running an aftermarket tach or shift light with the stock stuff. Just make sure the tach is good for a 2 cylinder (harley if nothing else) and it hooks to power, ground, and the trigger off the coil.

IR is the way to go if you will use it all the time. Chicago Pneumatic is a Harbor Freight house brand. (I didn't know there was a city in China named Chicago too???) The harbor freight stuff is really low quality, stay away from it. If you're going to use this stuff on the shee and mower, i'd suggest getting the impact as well as a 3/8" air ratchet. You'll use this about 60% of the time and the impact the rest. They ae really handy when assembling but the impact is nice for disassembly! Both are must haves in my book. A good quality set of impact sockets is also a must. We use the cheapie Harbor Freight sockets for impacts just because they are cheap and have a lifetime warranty. We only use air tools on disassembly anyway. Reassembly of any of the drag bikes is all done by hand and we only use snap-on.

Big bore sleeves start at 68 mm and go up from there. The max piston size though is 69mm These are blaster pistons. To go beyond 69mm you will need to run Trinity's pistons. They are custom made for them by Wiseco and go up to 71mm. If someone wants to order custom from wiseco, you'll need to order at least 100 at a time. You will need to change your port timing for the stroker. Sleeves are set for stock stroke, again order 100 of them and they'll set it up any way you like. Either way, how we change port timing is addition and removal of material from the cylinder and head. We don't do spacer plates. Look at the pic I posted, look at the base studs and you'll see what changed. The head is a different story on the outside but it is clearanced for the stroker inside. Very stealthy!

"There is no replacement for displacement" You cna go too big of a stroke and too small a bore. Some shops have formulas for this and we do too. Anytime we're building a stroker motor, we are adding the big bore sleeves to the mix to keep things evened out. Like anything else though, once you go there, you can't go back. Even a big bore on a stock stroke is a good mix if you're on a budget. I'd rather have the bigger bore first than stroking, if I had to choose 1 over the other. At 70.5, on a stock stroke you get a 420cc. This is what Trinity is selling but what you get is a 403.67cc with 54 stock stroke and 69 bore (blaster piston) This same motor with s +4 stroker gets you a 433.57cc or a 434. Roughly 30 cc's more without machining. at 70.5 you have a 452.63 or what we sell as the 454 at 71 (max bore on that sleeve) and 7mm stroke, you'le have a 483cc at 71 and +11mm stroker 515 cc, all on stock cylinders. Tell your buddies its a 350 long rod long piston

This is one of our 70.5mm motors. Yes, they are reliable but yes there is more to doing it than putting in bigger sleeves but still cheaper than going to a mono block setup.

If the line in question is labeled as fuel line or gasoline you're good to go. The oil portion will not eat anything, its the gasoline that will. Rubber is fine for temporary, vinyl or PVC is ok for a season and silicone is a no-no with gas. Methanol will run through just about anything without eating it. Gasoline is the worst.

Prices???

yamahammer, i'll be @ Glamis on the 26th as well. Let me know where you'll be and we'll hook up. Anyone else going to b there?

I can get it to you for $25 shipped. The only thing not 100% is the headlight connectors. 1 has the factory plugs on it (both sides) and the other was cut. The wires are still there though and the plugs are all good otherwise. Let me know. you can paypal to [email protected] and i'll send it out.

The ones I have listed here for the cartridge is, pro circuit fmf power core 2, and bills. There may be others available now but this is all I show. You can always either buy the loose material or the packing sheets if yours is not listed. DMC has their own "rebuild kit" available too. All of the repacking materials we carry here are from RaceTools with the exception of the DMC kit.

You can go up to 4 degrees without worrying about detonation on pump fuel. Any more and you'll want to run 50% race mix. 7 degrees would be max with race gas and completely unnecessary with your mods. Not too sure on jetting for the 2 into 1 pipes but for tommeys and fmfs @ glamis, people are running 280 mains and the correct toomey needle. Dynojet has the right needles in their jetting kit. I would strongly suggest you lay out the $65 for this kit and be damn close. The enemy for you right now is if you're running the tock needle. The center of it is fatter than the dyno jet/toomey which will run you lean in the mid range.

I want: Crank, Head, Tank Plastic. PM me if I can paypal the money.

Scott, I got a complete harness off a '98 available but you know you can just repin the connectors to get the CDI working?

Just as an FYI: The factory packing will not blow out but will become caked with oil just inside the perforated core of the muffler on most systems. This is especially true for the toomey, fmf, etc.... systems. If you use junk packing not designed for exhaust packing, it can turn to powder and blow out almost immediately. There are really 2 options, we sell the plain old glas packing everyone here is used to seeing and its gonna set you back $20 for a 450 gram bag. For some applications we sell the race tools repack kits. This has the same packing but is enclosed in a bag or "cartridge". To install it, you just remove the cartridge from the box, slip the core through the enter and put the can back together. Smoe shops carry this stuff and it does last a long time, better than plain packing for sure. Also, in dyno testing for our out of fame drag pipes, the pipes with a built in muffler made more horse power than the stingers on the same length pipe. We no longer make the stinger pipes, less power and more chances of another riding area being closed.

I for 1 am sorry I missed you guys. I didn't see any signs posted of where everyone was staying and didn't want to be the dick looking for camp @ 2am on Friday night. I just planted myself in my usual spot but do wish I could've atleast met up with the rest of the BHQ camp. It was just looking like another slow weekend @ Dumont so I didn't. On the next trip for sure i'll figure out where i'm going before hand and get to meet you guys. I was really unprepared though, My bike wasn't finished and I was just getting it to run when I got there. Just happy nothing major broke for the weekend. When is the next dune trip going to be anyway?

You need to follow the info Boonman said. You will be better off though finding out exactly what happened to the motor in the first place so you can be sure it never happens again. As for the future, I'd split the cases and either re-bearing/true/weld the existing crank or get a wiseco crank. These cranks have come to me out of true from the factory so I quit buying them welded. I would rather deal with the stocker so that I know its true before welding. Yamaha spac is .002, if its ANY beyond that it needs to be fixed before assembly. I have had them come in as far out as .014! Second, if you're running stock porting (which i'd recommend for now) the long rod will get you nothing but you need to run different pistons than stock. Figure it out before buying anything. Next, stick with a 22cc dome and run either premium unleaded or a 50/50 mix of race gas. The mix will keep cost down but make the fuels stable for a consistent mixture. You also didn't mention what oil you were mixing with. Some need to be at 32:1 (Yamalube) and others this is too high (927) From the looks of the plugs as you describe, you are too rich on oil which will also allow too little fuel past the jets causing a lean condition. So here are my suggestions: Completely tear down the engine, split the cases and rebuild the stock crank. Fresh bore on the cylinders and new wiseco pistons. New bearings and seals throughout (only Yamaha parts!) Check dome condition of head and replace with 22cc if necessary. Use good fuel and proper oil mixture, rejet according to mods and specs. Proper break-in procedure, then blow away the 400s! Good Luck!

you should submit a complaint here. http://www.ifccfbi.gov then if the threat letter from the FBI doesn't get you resolution, you can file in small claims court for this. The FBI letter usually works if you have exceeded the 30 day ebay/paypal limit to file a complaint. Good Luck and don't let 'em get away with it.