909

Hey Deli. Just so 'ya oughta know..... The o rings are there because they are reusable. Head gaskets are not. As long as they're not cut or pinched you can use them over and over 'till they break.

Better to use the pistons than the spacer plate. I use the hyperlites my self. Don't bother with contemplating a LR crank if you're not already ported and carbed though. it'd really be a waste of money without "needing" it. You will need it if you're running silly high compression, big bore, super high RPM, alcohol, etc..... if you're seriously looking at a stroker motor, you need to do the whole thing to see any benefit out of it.

Brian, Something else to remember, if you ride in the mud/water the k&n will clog and you're screwed 'till it dries. At least with the foam you can wring it out on the trail to get you home. If you vent the box, keep the vents low in the box so they act as a drain as well. You can also remove the drain cover in a pinch but keep it on 'till you actually get water in there.

The C.V. refers to "Constant Velocity" and is referring to the intake manifold, not implying the carb is a C.V. unit. A C.V. carb on a bike can be seen clearly as such by the flat round housing on the top. The throttle cable opens up a butterfly that allows more air to pass through the mouth of the carb and the bladder living in that housing up top actually moves the slide within the carb to regulate actual air/fuel flow based on manifold vacuum. This has nothing to do with this conversation though, just some info. The reference earlier to the twin carbs not doing anything in the power/exhaust stroke portion is true to a point. You have to remember that each cylinder will only be fed 28mm of air/fuel in a stock setup. The cylinders are 180 degrees apart, meaning only 1 will pull fuel at a given time. When the cylinder fires and blows out the burned fuel, the other cylinder being 180 degrees out will be pulling its air/fuel. This simply means there is 33 or 35mm (They have both available in the kits) of carb feeding both cylinders, only 1 at a time though. This will remain true up to a point where the extra angle of the intake manifold will restrict some of the flow compared to a straighter shot of 2 carbs. This is why people report a marginal loss at the very top end of their RPM range. In short, yes it works. If you'll be duning, MXing, Woods or trail riding, it will be very beneficial and much easier to maintain. If you're drag racing, you'll be better off with a PRECICELY tuned big dual carb setup.

Thanks for the 411 guys. This was driving me nuts since this motor only has about 10 hours on it since Trinity built it. If I were to replace with an RZ unit does this fix the problem? I know the forks and drum are superior units and I had anticipated running the RZ trans at some point but the thought of splitting the cases to do the swap isn't in the cards for this season. Is that something that can be swapped out without replacing other components? I just don't want it to happen again if I can avoid it in the first place. Sand doesn't mak the best repair facility, especially with the winds we had last weekend! Thanks for the help!

Sat. night, ready for the late night Olds trip and the shee is making a strange WHIRRING shound ideling. Pull in the clutch and it goes away, let it out and it starts again. Thinkin its cold trans oil I pull it down the sand highway to warm it up, pulling hard 1st...2nd...3rd....4t... LOCKUP!!!! Feeling like I just seized the motor, I pull in the clutch and lightly kick it over and it kicks smooth as silk! Kick it hard and fires right up, Clutch out and it dies, will not change into another gear or neutral, will not roll. I bring it home and dump the oil, no metal chunks in it so a buddy tells me it happened to 2 of his shees and its stuck in 3rd/4th and I can pop the clutch cover off and stick the fork back in and its good to go... WTF??? Has anyone else heard of this? Is this normal or did I break something expensive? Please help me get my learn on!! Thanks.

You need to figure out what paddle based on horsepower output more than swing arm length. Also consider what you will be doing with them, flat drags are completely different than hill shooting. I wouldn't be able to tell you what works in a flat drag situation, but my 410LR motor works bet with 22x12x8 10 paddle ultralites. I also run a +8 swing and am on the bottle. This is a typical hill shooter setup. If I were to run 12 paddles I would be TOO hooked up. Without the bottle i'd prolly run the 9 paddle. Hope this helps but if you can post some better numbers and purpose i'm sure someone can give better advice.