909

1: check your compression. if its even between cylinders, pull the carbs off and see if you didn't break a reed petal off.

Holyman, you're close. The "Best" flywheel wil not necessarily be a specific diameter. The best on paper would simply have its mass around the outside, you have to remember, this is theory and not real life. If theory was the same as real life, we'd all be running cardboard flywheels with some iron ring around it. You posted this earlier A perfectly optimized flywheel will store enough energy to power the compression stroke of the engine, but will have a moment of inertial low enough to allow rapid acceleration. Here is the key, you need enough weight to keep the engine spinning at idle, this is = none for the banshee as proven by 2 things. 1: the "button" flywheels weigh in the ounces, not pounds. 2: the combined strokes of a 2 cylinder engine will run it on its own along with the inertia provided by the rotating mass of the crank shaft. We don't NEED a flywheel to make it run but it helps make it run smoothly. In my opinion, If it weren't for the magnets to run my lights, i'd do away with it and take advantage of the quicker revs. Since I can't do that I will remove some of the unnecessary mass of the flywheel. I do this by removing it from the rim. Why? Theory tells us we want the greater mass at the outer rim to make the "best" flywheel right? Theory is correct here BUT in theory there are no other variables, such as torsional load, excess inertia causing hub fatigue, etc..... Fact is, it would be "best" to remove an equal amount of mass from the front of the flywheel that we currently do from the outer rim, however if we did then we would lose the strength of the hub area and failure would occur. This is because, the further outside the weight is from the center, the higher moment of inertia, the greater pull the weight is going to have from the center. Thus meaning that for us to have an equal moment of inertia between a hub shaved flywheel, and a rim shaved one, we need to remove more mass from the hub to equal what we would have if we took it out of the rim. Is this getting clearer? I've been up for 26 hours now so if its not I totally understand. Reality is, the alum flywheel would be best IF we could make one that would not break since the mass (magnets and a steel ring to keep it from blowing apart) would be located at the outer rim of the flywheel and the hub and center would weigh as little as possible, keeping its mass outside as far as it will go. I hope this helps.

Is it like a Grrrrr.... Or Rat A Tat Tat? Or EEEEEEEEEEECH!?? LOL If you turn the ignition switch off and kick it over does it make that grinding noise? Did you pull the plugs and look for metal? Sounds like a cold seize or like the other guys were going after, a gritty carb slide. Not like a choo choo.

Most do. You can sand it all off, then you will get to buff your rims every couple of weeks. Or more........ 1 word, zoopseal....

After the 400, if you polish, look forward to the 600, then 800, then 1000, then 1200, and finish sanding with 2000. Then hit the wheels and felt bobs..... I use wheels and felt bobs with silica sand, then greaseless compounds, then rouges to polish them. This is way faster. You will also need to dremel the casting flash and marks off. If you're looking for prep tools, check out caswellplating.com

I have no clue where spoin got his info on the test but its entirely incorrect. Tha test in ATV sport was done on a real bike. They flushed the cooling system completely between each test and verified the temps with an IR temp gauge. This measures the outside of the cylinder temp, not the water temp. They also backed it up with an ESR inline water temp gauge. They published not only the temps after the ride, but also recovery at idle. The WW and purple ice did the best, the engine ice did cool, however not as much and not as well in recovery. Upside is engine ice is completely non toxic and bio-degradable. The others were not. They also did a test on the inline coolers and on a bigger oil tank (4 stroke). Both worked as well. I have the article but cannot republish for obvious legal reasons. I'll check the month when I get home though.

Ducman, you are the man! No doubt in "theory" all or most of the above is correct. Fact is, that on a Banshee, all would be correct on if lightening the flywheel is better or not. This is purely based on function and cannot be generalized in 1 statement. A bigger energy store would be beneficial in certain types of riding, thus necessitating more mass. In other situations (drag with a high RPM peak horse power engine) would be less necessary. The statement about lightening the hub area is a completely bad idea. I say this from experience. I've tried it with both ATVs as well as watercraft. The watercraft would fracture the center more from a greater mass outside and a sudden jolt to the crank (sucking air into the pump, then suddenly loading it again) than anything else. I would hesitate in thinking that reducing the structural integrity of a part would be beneficial in any way. Fact is, these parts are mass produced at a minimal cost to the manufacturer. If this was not the case, the shee would come with aluminum from the start. Watercraft tended to use the outer edge to mount the starter gear ring (Steel) so the lightening would eventually lead to a failure if the line was crossed no matter where you took the weight off if it wasn't equally reduced from the starter rings. The RAD JS 440/550 wheel proved this with all of their failures. The only thing we need to worry about on the shee is the weight of the magnets. This is much simpler but as stated, the outer area is where it counts and you'll find greater benefit removing material from here. You could go a step further if a: you machined the entire outer surface without disturbing the integrity of the trigger. b: you were to make an aluminum fluwheel, imbed or glue the magnets, and imbed the triggers. b: makes most sense to me ultimately, but at what cost? Personally, I run the full MSD ignition and I have the "button flywheel", it sits in my toolbox incase I ever need it. I like having lights and dragging @ night is a blast. I run a cut rz350 flywheel and rz stator.

Going down the 1 tooth will help big time. Now you see what i'm talking about with rider weight. I weigh 225 and my setup is very different than a lighter riders. I can't run the top end like a lighter rider can so I have to adjust my setup to compensate. You should be able to pull 5th and 8 paddles with a 13 up front alone. If you can't i'd be sure the jetting was correct as well. You may be rich on top.

pm me a price on the cylinders, the ugly ones too. got pics?

jasonsb, for 65 horse, i would stay 8 paddle and go 15-41, good all around. All, dyno horse power means nothing. When you dyno, you're running small street tires, when you bolt a set of 22s on it will change your gearing. Second, it depends on where you are making power. If you weigh 95 lbs soaking wet and your t-rex motor peaks at 25000 rpm then your setup will be different than a 300 lb guy making peak at 8000. See the difference? The other problem we've had at glamis, is the bigger paddles hooking TOO well and spinning off the beads of the rim. If you increase air pressure, you spin them and go no where, too low and off the bead they go. There is alot more to it than how much paddle. All of our bikes are running 22x11x8 10 paddle ultralites. At 65 horse like jasonsb, i'd run either a 9 or 10 paddle ultralite and get the gearing straight first. There are so many other factors it would be impossible to speculate all motors and riders here. Its something you need to go out and try. Hope this helps.

+10" arm, fresh chrome http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMESSE%3AIT 54mm Long Rod Crank Trued and Welded http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMESSE%3AIT All are located in so.cal if anyone needs to inspect or pick up. More stuff coming soon. I also have new 4mm stroker cranks available. Pipes too, let me know if you need anything but we do specialize in sand drag parts etc... Thanks!

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I run distilled water and dilute purple ice just like they recommend on the bottle. I primarily use the ice to keep the mineral particles to a minimum. Pure water is the best heat dissapating liquid out there. anti-freeze is used as a stabilizer, anti-corrosive, and to raise the boiling point of the water. It does not dissapate heat better though. Since in my situation, i live in the desert, don't ride when its below freezing, hill shoot, and change out at the end of the season every year. I haven't had any problems de to this. Although my motor won't get that 200,000 miles on it, I haven't found a compelling reason to do different. Your mileage may vary though. Examine your situation before doing something beyond the manufacturers recommendations.

14-41 is stock, depends on the motor and what you're runnin in. Dirt, sand, street? Hill shooting or flat?

i'm finishing this up now. The shift drums are identical so yes, you can replace the forks only. I doubt the shifting will be any better though between a properly setup banshee trans and a RZ. I've never had a shifting problem once the shift star was modified. I did however break a gear so the compelling reason for me to swap was the RZ gear ratios. They're a bit taller so i'm going to be at stock banshee gearing on a built motor. It should pull longer though and be less shifting on my part.

If you're racing me up olds, i'd suggest 16cc and run 87 octane pump gas..... Really, you shouldn't go under 19 without real race fuel. On a stock bike prolly 20cc and mix 50/50 c12 and 91 pump gas and you'll be fine. Any higher than a 19 will cause bottom end damage with a stock crank over short time.

Remove the tank. Best 6 bolts you can take off. It'll save your back too.

The wear was on the bad pistons though. I have never ever seen this happen on a proper lubricated engine, where 1 side of a piston just happens to wear like that. Either the lack of lubrication wore it or something else is out of spec. I'd look into it though.

Does it sound like a dry grinding or a whirring sound? Does it make the sound with the clutch lever pulled in? I just went through this. That is what mine was doing whirring with the clutch out, in gear and clutch in, no noise. Took off and hit 4th before the bearing froze! Thought it was the motor seizing. Pulled in the clutch and it fired but no roll. I am in the process of putting the RZ trans in now. If it changes with the clutch, its trans related. If not, its motor related. Let us know and we'll see if we can't help.

The Cheetah is the Trinity variant, has power valves that give you a more ridable powerband. It changes port timong in the lower and midrange then opens up as you hit the top end. The t-rex has no power valve. If you're draggin or hill shootin, you won't need no steenking power valves.

the brakes on there will stop better than the tires will get traction for. They will fade a bit on a long MX but if a car was involved, i'd guess you weren't on a mx track, and since a tree was involved, i'd guess you prolly weren't thinking that far ahead (I could be wrong but i've never had a tree run out in front of me).

use a bit of air filter GREASE on the o-ring to help it seal completely. Never ever ever ever put any bathtup caulk on there. It won't stick to the plastic and you'll have to scrape it off the aluminum to get rid of it. Didn't the kit come with any instructions?

im with minkia, i have 35s and am too lazy to pull 'em to gring the head down so I just refrain from using the clutch

Ruff, I know you're gonna feel like you were asked the same thing a bunch of times and you checked but this is for your own good here. I had the exact same thing happen but on my shifter cart. I was going crazy because I couldn't figure out what caused the dings in the heat and the score marks in the piston. Turns out a small piece of the wrist pin clip broke. I didn't notice it 'till a buddy insisted on me checking both clips to each other. Sure enough 1 was about 2mm short on one side. That piece was bangin around in there for a while before it finally got wedged between the piston and cylinder, scored the cylinder up bad, caused enough pressure to crack the intake bridge then finally sieze. If you find out what came apart you'll sleep better at night knowing the cause was found and fixed, or replace everything! Good Luck!

give hy-tech atv a call. They stock up to +12 and an custom anything. The prices are cheeep too. I got a +10 for $32