909

Sandstar, I'm not real sure where you got the impression that I was attacking you or saying that there is no "untapped power" in the existing port timing/dimensions. I am also not trying to discourage people going in and doing their own home grown porting. The subject of this thread says it all so I am trying to educate those not in the know on what it's all about. I'm also not saying that the template kits are going to cause a loss of power, I have never used them, seen them, measured them. Maybe the changes worked for you and you're happy with the output. We don't need to go into discussion of your particular application and your satisfaction or dissatisfaction with them. That isn't in the subject of this thread. Without knowing what if any timing changes occur using them, it's not fair for you or anyone else to recommend them to everyone. You ride dunes, I do have customers that ride shees in woods as well as MX, TT, Road racing, desert, etc... and I would never tell all of them that the same setup will work best for all uses. Before the big debate gets off track, go back to the first few posts and re-read them, the original post was asking about specifics as to where to move the transfers. Later he states he wants to increase the torque. None of these statements has anything to do with the blueprinting process (removing the casting flash from the ports), it all has to do with proper port timing and resizing. Both of these processes require the proper tools. You will not be able to change transfer timing without the 90 degree tool and the proper bits to cut the sleeve. The sport port templates do not include these tools with them. This means the purchase of tools to do it right. Where you move those ports can be figured out using math computations that are free to all but require alot of measuring and input to give you the desired result. You don't need to be a scientist to figure it out, just need some direction and information. Or, someone like myself can compute the timing, you scribe the cylinders and have at it. I also found out that Eric Gorr has practice cylinders available for $15 each that have damage beyond repair but could be used to practice porting. The conclusion is this. If you're looking to free up some breathing room in your cylinders and do it yourself, by all means have at it and clean up the obvious problems that you and your tools are capable of doing. Don't go beyond your knowledge, skills, and tools and guess at major changes. The results more often than not will be undesireable. If you want to make a major change, increased horse power, change the peak HP to a different RPM, etc.. You should consult with a pro that has the tools and knowledge to point you in the right direction. Don't forget that you can lower the peak HP range and increase the effective stroke by simply cutting the cylinder base. MX and woods guys, this can be the way to go with a simple port clean up, cheap and easy.

mav, Before you go spend that kind of coin on a factory CDI, you could get the Dyna and get the same result, while saving some change. For the price of the factory CDI and possibly having to change out another piece of the ignition system you'll be at the same price as a new PVL or Fastline ignition and for sure be done with it. Let us know how this turns out though.

This is both incorrect and correct at the same time. Hopefully you guys know i'm just trying to shed some light on the subject that to some remains a big mystery or secret. I don't do secrets but then again there is nothing I can type that will transfer my experience to others. Yes, you can totally fux up your cylinders even reading and understanding. There are some serious variables that can really throw a wrench into things. Big for instance is stroking the motor. So now you decide to throw a 4mm crank in but you raised the exhaust in your process of home porting. Now what?? Here is the best advice I could give anyone of you reading this and i'll step off my soap box. Before you spend anything , time, tools, etc.. on the port templates think about this. You will probably gain just as much through bolt on horse power and "blueprinting" the cylinders than spending the money to change the port timing on a stock bike. You can bluprint the ports by removing small amounts of material that is left there by the factory casting process. You will need special bits to cut the iron sleeves and this will be the most time consuming process to do. This is also where your port timing changes happen. The rest of it is more flow changes. Like I said, if you want to do the job RIGHT then you will need the mentioned equipment and some time and skills. If you want to practice like that then have some extra cylinders on hand. If you think you're going to practice without the proper tools then what exactly are you practicing? If you don't have the coin to get the tools then how will you know if what you're doing is working or not? You need to dyno the thing to see what gains/losses actually happen unless you're running the engine through the software. Right now I have 2 guys that come over to the shop every night to learn this stuff. They help out around the shop whenever they can and in return we work on their bikes at night. They don't ask for money and nor do I since we all help each other out. These guys will have a nice ported engine when they're done and they are able to trade out a little sweat for the use of the tools, software, and mentoring. You may have a local shop in the area that is willing to do the same if you ask. Best of all is that THEY are doing the work to their own cylinders, just like the definition that Nighty said "amateur porter == learning alot + gaining some power."

SandStar, I don't believe you could make a more incorrect statement than this. Pipes are ALWAYS set for the engine and porting, never the other way around. Also all the talk about untapped horsepower is all a bunch of marketing crap. The horse power is all good as long as it's where you need it to be for the particular riding you do, your bike setup, your weight, etc... What good is 70 HP to a woods rider if that measurement is at 12,000 RPM??? Reality is that this rider will probably never have enough room to rev out to peak and actually lost bottom and mid compared to stock. The "secret" to porting is not all porting at all. You need to have a well rounded properly set up system for your situation. Don't get me wrong, porting is important too but I think too much emphasis is being put on it and not looked at as 1 piece of a puzzle. Does the port logic template come with a template for the cases? How many of you would send out only your cylinders for a full drag port job? What about the cases? What about the reed cages? What about the actual dome design and volume? Are your pipes going to work with the wonder port or will you need to buy/have made something else? This is where an actual professional shop that cares about customer happiness comes in and can design a complete package based on all the variables to find something that works. Trinity lost all their good customers and went to a production line format and this is why some folks bash them, it was a business decision and it seems to be doing well for them, it may not be what you're looking for but lets not bead a dead horse. If you are serious about learning this stuff, you need to call CC specialty and get their complete porting kit (about $1200) then you need to buy all of the previously mentioned books and read up. When you're done there, you need to have the TSR software ($530) to help you figure out the exact port timing, blow down, size, head dome shapes, pipes, reeds, etc... that you need for your RPM range you've determined from the rider specs. Once you have all of this information you need a degree wheel and some dikem and a scribe and map out your new port specs. Now that you're all set up and you've essentially MADE your own port template, its time to get on with the art. There is both a technical side and an art side of this, don't let anyone tell you different. Hope this helps someone.

You need only 2 things to fire off the coil giving you spark, 1 is power to the coil, the other is a ground (trigger) and you said that you checked the ground to the coil itself. If the above is true you need to look at the trigger. The coil should read on the primary winding .28-.38 ohms and secondary should read 4.7-7.1K on a high quality (read Fluke) digital meter. If you're showing 0.0 on both coils then you're reading it incorrectly. I know there is a Yamaha factory manual on the net for free but I have never downloaded it. We buy all the manuals in print but maybe someone here can steer you over there. There is a whole ignition troubleshooting section in there that goes over a bunch more stuff than you already checked. It's a simple step by step and has never failed me. Look for that first. I don't think that any bottle of whiskey and hooker you could get for $20 would be good for you.

Guys, lets stick to the subjects at hand and not hijack the threads with something completely off topic. For that price, yes it's a deal as long as there is no frame damage. Why is the shock bent?? What else bent? The shocks are tough suckers so i'd be amazed if nothing else was bent. As far as the cooling system, leave it alone. We're pushing a bit over 100hp through a completely stock system without issues (yes, even the head is stock). The clutch on the other hand sucks from the factory so it should be replaced with a HD clutch when the stocker frys. The HD kit is just gold springs, fibers, and steels. Bolt in and go. Keep the trans oil fresh and even the stocker will last a long time.

I thought of something. Not practical but possible. There are UV dyes available just about everywhere under the use of fuel leak detection. Problem is that you need a UV light to see the dye. I searched and found another possibility, but the dyes come in 55gal. drums only. If you're mixing that much fuel you better know which can is mixed and which is fresh

it would also depend on what fuel you're running too. Red dye in unocal 110 or vp 110 won't work cuz its already red. Another for sure option on the safety dye deal is to get some fuel scent from summit racing. Its got a dye in it and will make your shee smell purdy! It's also nice to "mask" any unsightly odors from addatives that may give up your secrets! I'm not sure on what it is but they dye diesel fuel based on if road taxes were paid or not. Tractors and other off-road vehicles run a red dye fuel that has no taxes paid. The dye makes it easily identified as such. They must be getting some sort of safe dye from somewhere???

use yamabond on the case halves and ultra black for the head gasket. You don't want to use something that completely dries on the case halves. Yamabond works best for this.

You don't need it. It is a catch can, you overheat and the coolant expands and dumps into the bottle, it cools and sucks it back in. You can ditch it but you have to watch the coolant level inside the radiator.

i'll be there 'till monday if everything holds together that long. we will be leaving sat. morning around 6 ish and we're in lake elsinore. if you happen to leave at that time, let me know and we'll hook up on the way down.

I'll be piloting the "roach bike" this weekend. polished motor, drag cut red rear fenders and no plastics up front. I will be the guy on the shee that has a battery mounted up front. Fairly easy to identify. I'm not going to leave 'till sat. morning as it turns out. I'll more than likely be in my 1/2 ton chevy at the hill on saturday. its a '94 on 38" swampers. So if you see the roach bike and a truck like this, its me. Stop by and say hi!

We will be out there this weekend @ wash 6 or so. Look for the huge group of motorhomes and drunk people staggering about, that'll be us.

Bottom line here, is there is no real answer, apples and oranges. The niks are made by art. Same as OEM yamaha. They are cast, they also have a higher silicone content than some other cast or forged pistons, they are lighter than some forged pistons. Wiseco are forged, they are not made as an OEM replacement or conform to OEM specifications, sometimes heavier, they retain heat longer than some cast pistons, they have a different growth rate than stock cast, they are physically stronger than cast (like ducman said). Which is better? Ford or Chevy? Butter or margarine? coors or bud? the answer is: it depends. Go to a kart track and ask the enduro drivers, ask the guys running baja, or anyone else running WFO for long distances and they'll answer "You mean Seizco Pistons?" or ask short distance racers like drag or moto-x and they'll say "Nixplode Pistons?" The right answer is what are you doing with the motor? what is the budget? are you looking for a stock replacement? Good luck with the decision. 909

only makes a difference if you're a: running alcohol, or b: need a 2nd fitting for the N2O. You can run 40mm gas carbs no problem off the stock T fitting.

10% NitroMethane should just about do it.

You need to clean the crap out of them when you get 'em back from any shop. The dish washing detergent/water will remove any oils in there and when rinsed, will remove any residual metal from inside the cylinders. AS SOON as you've cleaned 'em you need to lightly coat the inside bore (reads iron sleeve) with a light coat of the same 2 stroke oil you will be running in the bike. The oil will keep rust out, but will attract dirt. If you're not going to immediately assemble, put them in a plastic bag and seal 'till you're ready to put it together. I also put the paper towel I used to wipe the oil into the cylinder, inside the cylinder with the residual oil still on it. This will also help keep any moisture from rusting out the bore. Since you already got a light coat of rust on there, wipe with an oily CLEAN paper towel or the blue paper shop towels work well too. You should be able to wipe any rust away at this point but do it now.

This guy is a man of his words. We did a deal together and I can't say it enough that this guy will do what he says. Nice guy to deal with IMHO! No worrys here. Since I usually see stuff about guys getting burned on deals I though this should be posted for anyone else that may have concerns with this guy. Don't worry he's legit. 909

maybe thats my problem. I have a +12

The kits come with: New throttle cable, carb tops with adjusters, and an idle kit. On the factory TORS carb tops, the idle and synch is adjusted with the screws on the top of the TORS units. The kit replaces those huge boxed with a straight standard carb top. The stock cable is now too long and needs to be replaced. The adjusters are slack adjusters/carb synch tools and not meant to adjust the idle. The idle screws will require you to drill out the locations in the carbs where they were supposed to go from the factory, and tap this hole for the threaded screws. The screws are where you set your idle from, not the carb tops. After you drill the holes, be sure to deburr the inside of the carbs so you don't get any metal in the motor. This requires you to remove the carbs for the procedure too. Its also a good time to make sure your jets are clean and there is no dirt in the float bowls. Also a great time to add an inline filter to the fuel line if you haven't done so yet.

are they still available? i'll up the offer to $120

i'm confused as to why they aren't needed for a meth motor??

The right side journal overheated for sure. Do you have a v-block and a dial indicator available to you?

Its hard to practice this on a banshee. You really need to get a feel of balance point on a slower bike. if you have a 4 stroker or something it will make this much easier to practice. The banshee is very quick to go from hero to zero when you're at the balance point like that. You really need to get used to the feeling on something else, then when you have it down its an easy transition to the shee.

You need to either rebuild that crank or get a new hot rods crank. If you insist on running the roller bearing, invest in some straight cuts. Strokers need straight cuts AND the TZ bearing on the drive side. I would be willing to bet $$$ that the crank was out of tollerance (trued correctly) before you got it. We charge $125 labor to rebuild one, then you're looking at probably another $100 in parts for a new rod kit and bearings, then another $50 to true and weld it. Its cheaper than a new crank but not free. If you buy a new crank, invest the extra $50 for a competent shop to true and weld it. Don't trust the manufacturer! Good Luck!