909

Without knowing any mods on the bike: get yerself a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket. You're probably running a small diameter tire so the extra tooth there will pull a bit longer than stock. Second, you need to be starting off in 2nd gear. 1st is really useless if you have enough RPM on the launch. It is harder on the clutch though but you'll probably never notice except for fewer shifts. You should be geared so that you're at the top of 5th at the finish. Good luck!

1st question. If you're building a drag bike, why would you want a power valve motor??? Power valves give you more bottom end, drag is wide open, i'm confused as to why people do this. If you are looking for a mono-block cylinder with powervalves, you need to contact Trinity to get one of their "Cheetah" cylinder kits. If you want to build a drag only bike, i'd suggest looking up the info on the t-rex cylinder which is the same as the cheetah kit but without the power valves. I can get you one of these setups or most other shops. I don't however carry anything made by Trinity, and wouldn't in the future.

A set or single rear needed. Let me know what you got. I do paypal for fast shipping.

Those are the FMF cages. Knife edge them ans slap a new set of reeds on 'em and they'll be good to go.

Here it is.

You're close. The clutch basket is driven by the gear running around the outside. The crank has a gear that drives it.

Thats precisely what he's saying. Were you under the impression the clutch was directly connected to the crank?

It was a joke....

Finishing up my crazy idea of running the RZ fly and stator to charge my battery etc... But this wiring is driving me batty. I got the reg/rectifier for the setup and need to know where the wires are supposed to go by color if anyone here has done this. I'm going to an MSD Pro 2 ignition on this so the CDI connections won't help. Basically, here is where I am. The 3 white wires are the 3 phase power output from the stator. These go to the reg/rect. there are 2 trigger wires coming off the trigger, assuming these go to the MSD direct? There is a ground, and the others i'm assuming (i know..i know) are used to provide juice to the CDI and power up the coil. I won't be needing thse guys because the MSD is a total loss ign. All it needs is power and a trigger. WTF?? Someone help me if you know cuz this is going to kill me soon. Thanx, 909

Yamaha, its a trademarked name.

You will need a total of 14" to fit 40's on a tahoe. My buddy down the street has one but its a custom fabbed kit. He kept the IFS but its a 2 wheel drive. 4 wheel, you need to straight axle swap. Here is my HD with 40s on it. This is an 11" kit but the HD body sits 3" off the frame stock. This is the Suburban being shot for Tailgate Magazine

hooray for ducman! Even if I was NASA, i'd invest the money in development of tiles and o-rings before looking into such a project.

Why not just weld some shovel heads to the rear axle? I'm sure you can get some of those fold up military shovels from a supply store, and whack the heads off. My calculations say that you can get 4 of 'em per side staggered for easier balance. To re balance the axle, drill some small holes in the heavy shovels face, this 'll help with the cleanout too. When you're burried to the axle, pull in the clutch, rev it to the moon, and drop the clutch! no winch necessary!. The mud rooster tail should be spectacular too. If you must install a winch, instead of a battery, mount a portable generator to the rear 6-pack rack. This'll offset the added weight to the front. You can also power a small A/C unit for those hot riding days, and maybe a small fridge to keep the bneers cold. Just mount everything low to keep your CG correct in the high speed corners!

you mean methanol (alcohol)??? Please don't double post.

We do (show) polishing in house, send out the rest to a local shop doing it to our specs. I know Shortys can send it out too. Usually our prices for sending out are still cheaper than the public can get from the same place. This is just a volume thing though. Since shipping to CA or OR would not make it any cheaper, look in your yellow pages under "plating" or look on yahoo yellow pages. Check with local shops making custom bikes or rods, they know where to get it done too.

Is that because of the flywheel or because of other factors? other factors. Like I said, the thing runs just fine with the button flywheel, I just opted for lighting and a charging system.

The small fly i'd imagine would suck on any motor producing low torque and not on the pipe. The banshee does this stock though. This type of flywheel/crank trigger is purely for drag only. I imagine, my bike on a trail would ride the same if it had a stock flywheel on it or the button. My motor doesn't start producing enough power to move it below 7000 RPM.

Not trying to be a no-it-all, but......... you have it backwards. The weight should be to the outside when at low RPM's. bzzzztt! guess again, you want the weight closer to the center at low RPM to allow for the quicker revs, then the weight further away to hold them longer. This is an energy store approach. We've already determined that the energy is not needed to make the bike run. with the idle weight outside the bile will be slower reving and the weight transfer to the center will slow it down quickly, totaly against what holyman was suggesting.

ship 'em fedex or USPS only! no UPS. Also, it would help if the shipper were willing to declare them as a gift or for repair and to be returned.

OK guys, you asked for it...... The optimum flywheel on a banshee in particular is the lightest hub possible with all the weight necessary to run the bike on the rim. With todays materials and manufacturing costs etc.... I'd say the best you could do is either aluminum or titanium hub and the necessary magnets to run the stator as the rim weight. You don't need ANY weight on the crank to keep it running. Here are a couple pics of my MSD fluwheel to put this into perspective. This is for rag only as there is no provisioning for electrics, just a flying magnet. Dees is all you need!!! As you can see the rotating mass of the crankshaft is sufficient to accomplish the job. All the flywheel is there for (really) is to run the electrics and fire the coil. The bolt onz idea has 1 makor flaw. The weight of the puzzle needs to be perfectly balanced so you'd have to ake the weight from somewhere in balancing. Where? If the hub is superlight you won't have enough meat to do it there so you'd have to remove from the rim working against the whole idea. The moving mass is a great idea however carrying out the task is another. Not sure if you noticed or not but the variable clutches never spin at crank rotation speed. Any mechanism spinning 12000 RPM is going to be dangerous if any piece doesn't stay exactly in balance all of the time. Notice the 2 small holes on the flywheel. Those are the magnets that go by the trigger firing off the coil.

you guys got the jist of it. The problem though with the interchangable design is how to keep the outer rim from just spinning off? I'll post what i'm doing as soon as my RZ flywheel is back from getting cut.

$100 for both, you paqy shipping from so.cal. both off an '96 working and clean. Let me know cuz they're about to go on ebay.

"A bike wheel on a mountain bike should be more difficult to spin than one on a BMX bike just because it's taller but once it's moving, the taller tire should spin longer than the smaller one {assuming same weight}. " This is true as long as you are spinning from the hub and not from the rim. The best thing to do is develop one that can be easily spun and stay spinning the longest. This is exactly what this discussion has been about. The "best" flywhel is exactly what you stated above. Its the "getting" that has been the discussion.

On the MSD Pro2 ignition, it uses a flying magnet trigger versus the induction type on a stock CDI. The button is just a piece of aluminum with 2 magnets in it. The trigger plate is just that. A flat aluminum holder for the trigger. Very simple but not good at producing electricity. Thus the "Total Loss Ignition" name.

Exactly, it is a great mod. Boost bottles DO work though (as fishing floats) The only thing to emphasize on this is this. You have to keep in mind that the person cutting the flywheel may or may not know what exactly he is doing. Some builders will sell a cut based on how much weight is retained within the whole flywheel but never mention where the material had been shaved from. To get the greatest reduction, you need to cut the outer rim. Here is a home experiment you can try and actually FEEL what we're discussing here. Take a plastic grocery bag and stick something with a bit of mass to it but not so heavy it rips through the bag. A shoe would work for this. Take the bag loaded with weight and swing it in a circle over your head (watch for wife here) like a helicopter. See how fast you can spin it. Now instead of holding the bag at the handles grab the bag closer to the object and repeat the test. I'll bet 1: its much easier to spin the bag with less effort to keep it spinning fast, and 2: You will be able to spin it at a higher spin rate (RPM) with less effort than before. What we did was to simulate a smaller versus larger flywheel. Same mass at the rim. Point 2 on the test. When you attempt to stop the bag, the further the mass is away from the hub and its harder to stop. I hope this explains some of it and how a bigger flywheel with the same rotating mass can also cause differing results.