banshee04le

Holy shit! So i guess your rims are pretty fu@ked up then huh? They make track conversions kits for the bansh. Sounds like thats what you need to me . Thats cool though. I don't think I would be taking my bansh up some shit like that! Maybe if it was a J-arm banshee

Are you guys landing on rocks from 6ft in the air or something. I've hit plenty of rocks with my DG skids and they are not fu@ked up yet. If you think you ride harder than me, I doubt it. mrmatt the DG skid is 3/8" aluminum. How thick is the armadillo and how does it mount any differently? You must be riding on some extra rough shit. What do your rims look like? They must be f'd up.

God bless all of our armed forces. I am proud and very thankful of the job you guys are doing over there. As I cozy up here in the crib I realize the sacrifice you guys are making for us all and it puts a knot in my throat. Nothing but love and respect for you guys here, and I will be praying for you all. Thanks again.

I don't know . Does that help you get off the line faster when drag racing. I heard it called a lowering block, but I haven't got a clue. Is the lowering strut just to lower your center of gravity for like flattrack or something or would it help with hook-up?

bump

I think that our system of government is suitable for domestic policy making...but it is always a crap shoot with international policy. If not for the impact of international affairs thrown into the mix I think we have a good system of checks and balances, and the fed i.e. Greenspan is always there to try and stabilize the economic situation as it fluctuates. The problems in the Middle East are very complex...and I understand that we had to do something when we we're attacked...I fully support the invasion of Afghanistan, but what I don't understand is wy we captured Saddam before Osama. Where the fu@ck is Osama? This and the fact the we have not made a good case for the timing of our invasion of Iraq makes me wonder what underlying motivating factors were involved, that the Bush administration has not been honost about. I guess it is possible that the bigger untold picture involves strategic positioning in an unstable region. But I also worry that the bigger untold picture could involve something more capatilistic...such as oil (We know Bush and his daddy love oil), or simple revenge for his daddy's failure to follow through with what he started in Iraq in 92'

I have DG swingarm and chassis skids. I like them. They will take the hit. Fit was ok. The swigarm skid was about 3/8" too wide at the mounting holes. This was not a problem, as it squeezed down when the bolts were tightened. The chassis skid clamps to your frame with some heavy aluminum half moon type clamps, all of which did not line up perfectly with the frame, but it's on there, looks great and I am sure it is not going anywhere. I do not have experience with any other manufacturers skid plate for the banshee to compare, but I am glad I bought them. I used armor flex (tough spongy foam line set insulation on a/c condensors) under the frame clamps to avoid abrasion to the paint.

I've never seen them. I heard someone talking about them and how they really help you off the line when drag racing. I guess it lowers the mounting point on your rear shock linkage or something . Does anyone know if these are worth looking into? If so, who makes them and where can I get one? Thanks.

I almost want to get stuck just so I can try it. Thanks Blacksmith, I would have never thought of that. Of course I'm sure I won't have a rope if I ever do get stuck. Well, back at camp maybe. Just a thought, If there was no tree to tie off to, a heavy stake driven at least 3ft into the ground with a single pully to pass the rope through could also work. In this case you would tie one end to the front of the frame and the second end would pass through the pully and then back, attatching as Blacksmith said.

I'm scared for life and scarred for life .

I did not read all of this, and it may have already been covered, but flywheel design is application specific. As a rule, for constant speed applications you want a heavy flywheel to help maintain rpm's during load changes. Generator, pumps, and compressors are examples of constant speed applications. Obviously the banshee engine is not a constant speed application. As long as you have enough flywheel inertia to maintain smooth engine performance at low rpm, that is all you need, no more no less. Distribution of mass is important. A 2 lb flywheel can produce more force than a 10 lb flywheel...it depends on the distribution of mass. As a rotating mass is moved further from the center of rotation, inertial force increases exponentialy. To alter a flywheels inertial characteristics in the pursuit of better throttle response obviously involves the removal of material. The actual weight reduction is not as important as the location that weight is removed from. Two flywheels lightened by the same amount will have different inertial characteristics if the material was removed from a different radiused plane. This again gets back to the exponential factor of distrubition of mass. I'm good at saying a WHOLE lot of nothing

I installed reed spacers and experienced a tremendous gain in power.

Sounds like I struck a chord with you boonman . I think it should be noted that when one finds oneself in this prediciment, they should immediately evaluate their own mechanical ability. A bad mechanic should immediately abandon the attempt at improper assembly, and pursue the correct order of assembly. A good mechanic can continue in the pursuit of the improper assembly. This is based upon the theory that the only difference between a good mechanic and a bad one is that a bad one will force shit until it breaks. A good mechanic knows how to force shit until it almost breaks.

Dude...nobody needs to see that shit.......

Demsy you have a different looking adjustment knob than my Denton, but the same mounting hardware. Your front frame bracket installation is definitely correct. Like bri98 said, alignment at the stem clamp is what's critical. Your heim joints should not bind in any position that the bars are in, and if you are not careful with the installation, it will. Like bri98 said, install the stem clamp just slightly snug, take off all you dampening, and then turn the bars full left and then full right. one of the bar positions will have forced the stem clamp to move (unless you had it just right by chance). Now move the stem clamp a little more with your hand, to adjust out of this forced position. Now you are ready for up and down adjustment. This is what insures that your heim joints don't bind. When properly adjusted, the stabilizer will be very loose in any set bar position. So loose that you will think that this POS is gonna flop around and rattle...but it won't. Move the stabilizer valve body around while you turn the bars, and feel for tight spots. If you hit a tight spot, adjust up or down to correct. Mine took more adjustment time than I anticipated, but I could do it faster next time Don't forget to tighten that clamp now

I second all of the above. Have you ever been putting something back together, and some part is giving you problems...and after you struggle with it for a while you realize that it would be much easier to remove the part that is in your way, or that you should have followed some other order of assembly...but by now you have so much time invested in doing it the wrong way that you don't want to stop and go back and start over, because your sure that you are going to get it any second if you could ONLY JUST... I fu@king hate that.

cool...now i don't feel so bad about the that i got from evil the other day...it was right after he told me "good luck"....you shouldn't feel too bad either erbilabuc, i think it's just his way hey evil

yyyep Banch, your reputation preceeds you...

look there banch a get outta jail free pass........... Hmmm.....Not that I'd need that or anything..... i heard you were the man to fear on C-block, Banch...ever since you shanked that punk in the yard... i think i've seen too many prison flick's

WOW, thanks dunedemon!! spoin, BenBB, Meat...i'd spring you all out of the klink!!! i'll let you know who i decide to go with on the revalve/respring and how it turns out

thanks for all of your help.....if you guys ever need bailed out of jail at 3 in the morning, you can count on me!

Mr. Deuce....i am honored i thought i had read on here somewhere that works has cookie cutter springs, and only do their tayloring with the valving. where would i get a stiffer primary spring? any idea what is the best way to compress the spring to adjust the preload...i'd just like to play with it and see how much difference it makes, but i understand now how excessive preload is undesirable. thanks dude, your the man.

i just checked, and i have 8 grooves visible on top. i might as well try it. whats the best way to compress the spring for this adjustment? if they still bottom at max preload, i guess thats a sure sign that the valving has failed, or can the spring wear out too? oh yeah, and what do you think about those mounts not being as fat as the stock ones. there is slop where they could slide back and forth on the thru-bolt. should i shim this w/washers or something. did you ever know that your my hero?

thanks banchetta...i feel better already. can you get quite a bit of adjustment on the preload...cause i need quite a bit, i think. if so, i'll try that. $150 sounds a lot better than $300...thanks bro.