banshee04le

this sucks. how come i dont see the top spring compress? no evil, i dont see any oil anywhere. and banchetta, they were supposedly set up for 190lb rider on stock arms in the woods. i'm about 205 on stock arms. are they screwed? when does the top spring do anything? and the mounts wern't as fat as the stock...should i shim them up or just let them be able to slide around on the bolt? ahhhhhhhhh............i want my money back! banchetta, you say yours almost bottom when you jump on the front bumper...how much do you weigh. i see there is a schrader valve on the top of them. looks just like a tire valve. anyway to check the pressure there, like on a tire? please help!

ok, i put them on today. haven't rode it yet but the bike sits about 1.5" lower in the front....thats cool. and they feel alot softer than stock...thats cool too. but when i pushdown on the front end, its so soft that it is like really easy to bottom out. the little rubber bumper stop on the shaft, at the bottom of the shocks will hit the valve body. when this happens, it doesn't look like the upper short spring has compressed at all. is this when the dual rate kicks in or is that it for travel? also, when i compressed them against the ground w/all of my weight, i could move the works shocks about 4". i could only compress the stock about 1/2"...they are stiff as hell. does that sound normal? thanks for all of your help guys.

if you were good like me you could TIG that up, and then true it back down with a dremel drum sander . its a good picture, but it is still hard to tell just how bad it is. the location of it looks as though it could contribute to the possibility of snagging and breaking a ring...if it were gouged deep enough. i would try to smooth it a little, while removing minimal material. good luck.

thanks wallrat! i'm going to try that. rock climbers rule!

i finally got my shocks today that i won on ebay. i haven't put them on yet. i was wondering how you tell when they need rebuilt or revalved or whatever. when i compress them, they sound squishy, like there's bubbles in there or something. is this normal? whats a good price for a revalve job? thanks.

do you guys see the value of this. with this kick ass website, once you know who knows their shit on a given subject, you can access all of their posts directly and delve right into their area of expertise. now your learnin some shit, from someone who knows their shit. we need more names.

thanks dude, i'm gonna write that down.

a lot of guys on here really know there shit. some more than others. i probably shouldn't even start this topic, but i've had a few beers...so what the hell. i think this could be valuable in many ways. since i don't have time to keep up with every topic in every forum section, i miss out on a lot. sometimes it is hard to tell who's opinion to believe on a given topic. there are a lot of smart people out there and i by no means know who they all are. the question is who's the man. some members may not want to post for fear of offending another member who thought that they thought that they was the man . but a relative newby like me, a virtual unknown, can feel free. just to start things off (and this may not go far) i'd give it to passionre for porting and engines, boonman for overall general know how, and i'm thinking deuce knows his shit on suspension. we need some more names. if this topic is lame as hell...it's just the beer.

what he said

vacuum lines blowing off, huh? in boonies defense, it should be remembered that diesel engine applications that require vacuum (whether it be a brake booster on a vehicle or whatever) use a seperate belt driven vaccum pump to supply this vacuum. why? because a diesel engines intake vacuum is very low. why? becuase the air intake is unrestricted. so there you go. and your dumb, dude. he didnt say anything about compressing back against the intake. he said that the closed throttle plate represents a restriction on the intake...nothing to do with compression...so therefore, no restriction on the intake=less engine braking on a diesel. it "just baffles me" that you don't understand that restriction on the intake represents a slowing effect on the engine, thus engine braking. and we all know the valves are closed during compression, so maybe you should just go eat another PB and jelly sandwich you fat b@st@rd. oh, yeah...and the word is arrogant. you need to learn to spell too. and its spelled baffles...not baffels. i could probably find more examples but i am too tired to look after reading your long ass bullshit post.

hey ikikazz, your upskirt avatar is kikazz!

i was thinking about getting some for the rear because i heard that they hook up excellent in hard pack as well as sand. would these be any good for mx type riding do you think? 22" are as small as they come. is this good? what front tires (model and size) would be good to run with these? thanks in advance for any responses

install a steering stabilizer. not much of a workout, but it works

oh well, so much for the poll question, i cant edit it. screw it , i will just try it myself. thanks for all your help

i respect this mans opinion, but is that all i get? i would like to hear a simple flip or dont flip response from just the guys who have actually tried it both ways (not to imply that aussiequadracer has'nt ran both ways). ive listed the cons. the pro's that i know of are more stable cornering and i even heard one guy on here say that flipping them may smooth out the harshness of the stock shocks (new shocks on the way!) but i have never rode a bansh with the rims flipped so i dont really know what to think. you dont have to waste much time on this question...i would just like to get a polling...flip or not. is wider better? thanks

i thought that was called east st. louis... ur just ashamed 2 tell us that... j/k... im 2 hours south of stl... L8r d34 das right. dis playa from east st louis ain't no joke now ya heear. no, but it is a little too close for comfort

funny shit deuce!

i live right across the river (the mississippi for those of you geographically challenged) from st louis, missouri. i live in Granit City, Illinois...Gods Country as i like to call it...or planet granite. its pretty much a shithole town really, probably would have moved by now if not for family. it is built around a steel mill, if that helps with the picture. been here all of my life. it has a few pluses if you look hard enough, or so ive been told.

oh yeah....duh thanks!

bodybuilding is 30% weight training and 70% diet and rest. if you are just getting started, you can generally expect to make great gains for about the first 4-8 weeks and it is not uncommon for ones strength on movements to double in this time period. after that, results will taper off. you body will adapt to a threshold of resistance in that time and it will then be important for you to change your training around to continue to gain. constant feeding is the key to gaining muscle and losing fat, along with sufficient resistance training to stimulate growth. constant feeding simply put, is eating 6 small meals a day with healthy snacks in between instead of 3 fat ass meals with ho ho's for snacks. with out adequate rest, recovery and diet, you will eventually "overtrain" and when this happens, you will probably loose muscle instead of gain it, no matter how hard you try. when overtrained, your hormone system will be adversely affected which basically means your natural "steroids" will be gone. set and rep range is pretty much common knowledge so i wont get into that. workout hard (and dont forget your cardio) but make sure you get adequate rest and recovery as well as proper nutrition.

i always thought it was compression braking, but that does sort of make sense. it just seems wierd to me that if that were true, on a carb like a holley 2 or 4bbl, if there were that much pressure differential on the intake that was sucking on a closed throttle plate, it would just suck it right open because it is only closed lightly with spring pressure, and you know how easy it is to move the throttle plate. what do you guys think about that?

LMFAO the grease would definitely catch some dirt though i think im going try that mop and glo tip, thanks rebelbanshee2

someone on here probably already has this member name, but on the remote chance that it has not been taken yet, i would formally like to declare the name 2-psycho (you know, like 2-cycle) as my personal domain. anyone interested in acquiring this domain name can pm' me. the price is negotiable.

Armor All is the shiz nit keep using it, wd-40 leaves a film behind. dude, read again...i never said anything about using wd40 on the plastic. armor all may be better than wd40 on the plastic (ive never tried wd40 on the plastic) but it is not better for the rest of the machine. wd40 has corrosive inhibiting properties, armor all does not.

i meant take the plastic off so that you could better mist the rest of the machine with wd40, without getting it on your plastic. i read in dirtwheels about wiping your plastic down with cooking oil to keep the mud from sticking to it. i havent noticed that it makes washing my machine any easier, but it sure makes her shine. my black plastic is kind of dull after washing and drying...compared to how it looks when i "oil" the plastic. it looks kick ass then. looks good on the black anyway.