Ducman

Well S.O.B! Rockey Mountain was sold out of the rear sandstars for 10" rims one month ago when I ordered them but the lady said that they would be getting another shipment of them in a week. 4 weeks later still no 10 inchers so I fugure I'll just go with the 20x11x9 but guess what they dont make 9" c-ceries rims. I would have stuck with it and waited but they couldn't even tell me when they would be getting in another set of 20x11x10 sandstar rears. Oh well, the ITP T-9's look pretty good and the 9" rear rim and tire combo costs $10 less also so I am saving a lot of money over the c-series package deal and the shit will be delivered by the end of the week. I'm just depressed cause I was looking forward to all that c-series bling bling. They said the Sand Stars were very popular so I'm betting the price on them be going up soon. If they are as good as most people say then they are a bargan at $50 each.

I think you could get away with 50 wt but the correct gear or is like 80 or 90 wt. It only takes 1 qt. I'd just buy some stuff made for the tranny at the stealership. It only costs like $7 and it will be better for your clutch.

Blasters are supposed to have compresion around 145 stock if memory serves me right. I think that you can keep operating it untill it gets down to around 110 and then its time for a rebuild. I'd say that the piston and or rings is blown if it is at 90.

The ratio rite cups are cheap to buy, simple and straight forward to use. I like the race style 5 gal jugs with the large screw cap and the 2 ft. weenie style spout. You never spill or drip putting gas in the bike and they will also put the fuel in faster. There about $25 though but well worth it.

Interesting. I didn't know that pump fuel S.G. could vary that much. I rode at the Shasta Dam OHV park this weekend. I'm jetted for 500' elev. 40-60 deg. It was about 40 degrees out and the park staging ares is at 1000'. I took a one fire trail that took me up to I'd estimate 3500', it was also faily cold out like 40 deg so that probably compensated for the elev a bit. It was down on power just slightly and didn't go into the band quite as quickly or as strong, but didn't bog. I pulled out a plug just to see what it looked like at 3500' and it was definitly darker than what it looks like when I ride at home (500') but still within what looked like an acceptable operating range and not in danger of fouling. I had installed a new set of plugs just prior to this ride. I went all up hill for about 15 miles at an average of 40mhp. I putted the last 1/4 to 1/2 mile to let it cool off a bit but that wasn't quite enough and when I stopped I got a little whiff of radiator fuid and saw a bit of steam. It must have puked a small amount out of the overflow or cap so I immediately fired it back up and went downhill for 200 yards, then it was fine. It's hard to say if the heat was from running rich or going all up hill or both. The 20cc domes probably helped it run better in the high elevation. I wonder how much elevation you can go up before it starts to bogg?

slight jettin change??? "Afterwards I jetted for them, and I went from a 185 to 220, and up on the pilots a few points. Now it runs really great and dialed in perfectly." that was a quote from u on another post about eix plugs... yeah, so? oh wait, that must be the monkey i'm pulling out of my ass. i also went from the 3rd to the 4th clip on the needle. I think D34 is just saying that your jetting change was a little more than just slight, not that your ass if full of monkies.

By insert you mean a cage or structure of some sort to hold the shape of the foam filter? On my twin air and I think with most foam filters for the banshee you dont need anything to hold the shape of the filter, just the foam filter itself. Some filters like the one on the raptor has such a wide and flat oval shape to its filter that it needs a structure to hold the filter from collapsing but the banshsee's intake is much rounder. Just get a hose clams that fits the proflow flange and clamp that sum bich on.

See my settings for Gnarlies in the signature. That's what runs perfect for me, results in a text book plug chop for 500' elev 40-60 degrees. They jet the same as Fatties. When I bought my pipes the jet kit and instructions from FMF said to use #30 pilots and 260 mains with the lid on snorkel removed and the directions that came with the pipes were for Fatties. Thats for 60 to 80 degrees, sea level. If you can get it to idle with the stock pilots the 280's will probably be about right with the lid on at your elev. and temp if you are running a foam filter or stock filter. Same conditions with the #27.5 or 30 pilots then 270's would be good on the mains with the lid on. The needle doesn't make a real big difference on mine from stock clip to 1 clip richer probably due to the larger #30 pilot. Seems a little snappier going into the band at the stock clip position.

If you have a friend with a troque wrench that he knows is acurate you could check yours against his, but most wrenches can get screwed up. A frind of mine bought a $100 wrench from sears and the mechanism for reading the torque got messed up. It still worked you just couldn't read what torque you were at and sears wouldn't do anything for him. Most places won't warentee them for more than 90 days if at all. My $15 wrench from pepboys works just fine.

I'd try the plugs first. If that doesn't do it, then to get it to idle you will need to adust the air screws, try turing them in and see if that makes it run better. If it starts running better when you turn it in and you get to within 1/2 turn of all the way in then go up a size on the pilots. Your at a really high elevation so I suppose you may need to do the oposite of the directions that I just stated, but with your setup I'd say it needs to go higher. But the air screws and/or pilots and possibly the idle do need to be adjusted.

Easy out/screw extractor will do it. Drilling into the stud while the motor is in the frame may be a pain Was the nut hard to get to come loose when taking it off? May of got stressed beyond the elastic range of the stud when taking it off then in a torsional stress but didn't break then broke when it was put under a tensile stress. I'd just change just the one that broke unless the others are starting to look coroded or threads are geting worn from taking the head on and off.

It's pretty simple. Follow the numbered torque patern on the stock head, torque in that sequence to 10, 15, and 20 ft-lbs. One thing that is optional, but good to clean the studs when the head is off and put either grease or silicon sealer around all the base of all the head studs (from the top of the cylinder) to about 1/2 inches up the stud before putting the bottom half of the head on to prevent corosion on the head studs.

Interesting. Is there any pipe manufacturors that make pipes that fit and are tuned for the RZ cylinders on the banshee? Roughly what would be the total cost of a RZ powervalve conversion VS a cheetah PV conversion and how do they compare performance wise?

I'd have to ask what kind of hill? For a wooded technical hill climb with bumps and direction changes, 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear type of hill where you are on and off the gas a lot a low end pipe like my FMF Gnarlies kick ass. For a long sand dune hill that you might take in 3rd, 4th, or 5th and you can just keep the throttle pinned and go straight then high revs like the toomeys kick ass because they will put out more top end power and keep the bike from slowing down as much so you wont bog down and have to upshift.

What's going on with your air screw adjustments and what size of pilot are you running? You problems is somewhere in the pilot jet circut. Also the BR9ES is a colder heat range plug than the standard BR8ES. I think running a BR8ES will improve you idle some as well because once the plug is hot it will help ignite the fuel by keeping combustion chamber temps hotter.

If the air screws are within 1/2 screw of being all the way in you need to go up to the next size pilot. For the mains you need to give us more info: airbox lid on/off, air filter type, elevation, temp

Not to scare you, but the pistons on the 2 stroke MX bikes are not nearly as beefy as on the banshee either so you can melt one down pretty quick compared to the banshee. A long time ago I had a little RM 80 and it had only one ring on the piston and you could actually cut the piston material with a pocket knife. I was too young and dumb to know anything about jeting or freshening up the top end every so many hours, and my dad wasn't into motorcycles and didn't know either, needless to say, after I melted the 3rd piston my dad got rid of that sucker and it was 4 strokes from then on.

In the summer when the creek I live next to is shallow enough to cross it I put the lid on so the water cant just flow right into the air box. I've had the water up to the bottom of the seat before for an short amount of time without killing it or sucking water. In the winter I take it off and I haven't had any problems with pieces of mud getting in but I don't usually get in the mud nearly as deep as the water in the creek crossings. I have some lid mods that I might try for next summer that should flow almost as good as the lid off and still keep out as much water as the stock lid. I'd say vent the lid or leave it off unless your going to get it in mud up to about the level of the carbuator bowls.

Yup, ask the builder that did the port work. When port timing gets changed the dynamic cylendar presure also changes so going off of static presures may not be a good way to look at it. With stock porting everyone is a lot more even and there is a lot more data and experience to base dome sizes and ignition advance off of static compression.

I believe +7 works for a drag setup but ups the octane requirements a good amount and can cause overheating pretty easy for all around riding. Don't know from experience through. I think + 3 is a safe amount.

I think I would keep running it they way you have it set up now, maybe check the rods and crank for any movement out of tolerence once a year or so, but I could be totally wrong about this as I don't have quite the experience of others. I believe the crank seperation deal is somewhat of a luck of the draw thing, some do it sooner than others, some last forever. I think a lot has to do with how hard you ride and abuse the motor. I think a lot has to due with how hard you abuse the clutch and gears not just the power adding mods and compression.

Yup, there isn't one darn part that you cant find on the internet for damb near half the price of what the stealership wants! Mine tries to somewhat pricematch internet quotes now which is nice and I try to first buy my parts from them, but they snivel and whine about people not supporting their local dealerships. I tell them I have no mercy because they try to tell me that their cost on certain items is X amount of dollars and I know that it is BS because I can usually buy them for the price that they are saying is their cost with shipping included. The online companies I am buying it from are still making a profit and not just on stuff that can be bought in large quanities.

Did ya use any of your girl powers on the dude to get him to help you out? I know my wife can always seam to get a discount on parts or get better service on buying stuff and I pay full price and get the tuff luck story when my stuff is on back order or something. When we have to take a car in for servce or repair they try to rip her off her through and they dont try to pull any fast ones on me.

I run the Yamalube R at 36:1 with no fouling problems, no carbon buildup on the piston dome or the head either. It had a good amount of oil film on the cylinder walls, piston and head domes. Smokes a lot on start up but who doesn't.

Ah hell, he who dies with the most toys wins! There's enough luv in a mans heart for 2 quads. You could roll around with both of them like you were having a 3some!