Ducman

I have a 99' Ducati 996 biposto (the model with the passenger seat and pegs). This is the first toy I bought after I graduated college and got a job and much of my inspiration for keeping my nose in the books for 5 1/2 years to get that deploma. Although I'd be lying if I didn't admit partying at Chico State had a lil' to do with the extra time. But it was difficult too! I'll post a pick one of these days as soon as I get signed up on the pic hosting site.

Boy I'm really effin up my own post. The link didn't seem to work for some reason, look at e-bay item 2465155125

Me dumbass, forgot post link Ducati Pipes

Check out the pipes I make. NO, not crack pipes! This is my side hobby that pays for fun stuff. I've been doing this for about a year now and I believe that the set of pipes in the auction is about my 16th set that I've made. I won't go into details because the e-bay add pretty much explains everything. I've sold sets to people in many different staes including Alaska. I've even sold 2 sets to Sydney Australia. Just thought I'd do a little show and tell. Any critiques on this add would be appreciated because I really havn't had too many people look at it and give a lot of feedback on the add other than e-bay looking to buy pipes. Immagine that you own a ducati 748, 916, 996, or 998 when you read the add, and believe me most of you already know more about them than alot of the people that own them! Thanks, Zack P.S. The Daytona 200 superbike race is on Speed Vision today, Go Ben Bostrom!! (#155 he used to ride for Ducati but I still root for him.)

I thought it might have something to do with the piston and rod interaction. Now that I think about it, it makes sense because with a longer rod the angle between the piston and/or cylender centerline and the CL of the rod is less with the longer rod and with a longer stroke the angle would increse even more. Don't know why that didn't compute before. But I thought that I read in one of the adds that you could use the stock pistons in a stroker but then you would need the stroker plate with a thickness depending on the rod length, but if you use the 795 series pistons and the correct length rod then you didn't need the stroker plate? Isn't the stroker plate just to position the cylenders so that the piston comes just to the top of the cylendar; so the piston doesn't go too far up and hit the head or when its at TDC it's too far down and effectively lowers the compression ratio and combustion geometry? Isnt the distance fron the wrist pin CL on the 795 series to the top of the piston less than on the stock piston? I'm so glad that I can ask these complicated questions and their are people out there that can answer them. The learning curve must be steeeep for the people without computers and BHQ! Thanks!

I was looking at the goodies in the Banshee Superstore , flirting with the idea of building my own 4mm stroker motor, trying to figure out what would be the least expensive way to do it and should I do it myself or wait and have a builder do it later on when I can afford to drop a little more dough and/or get some porting at the same time. Anyway, I see they sell a crank that has a stock stroke but uses "long rods". What the hell is the point of this? The piston would travel the same distance stroke but now you would have to either use a stroker plate or the wiseco stroker or blaster pistons due to the added length of the rods right? I thought the only reason to use long rods was so you could use the wiseco stroker pistons and not need a stroker plate when using a stroker crank. With stock rods and a stroker crank you would have to use a stroker plate otherwise the pistons would go past the top of the cylindar and the stock rods are too short for use with the stroker pistons right?. You choose the length of the rod based on the added length of the stoke if you want to use the stroker pistons and not have to use a stroker plate right? Or is there some benifit to using the stroker piston and/or long rod that I am not seeing? I can't emagine that a piston made for an air cooled Blaster would be as light weight and work as well as a piston designed for use in a watercooled banshee cylendar. Can someone tell me if I'm thinking along the correct lines and what the benifits of the long rod and/or long rod piston are? Also is there less expensive ways to obtain a 4mm stroker crank like having the stock one out of my shee rebuilt, or e-bay, but yet something you can trust and isn't just a cheap P.O.S hack job. These rookie questions are probably a good argument get the engine done by a reputable engine builder but I think it would be more satisfying and economical to do it myself and a great project for next winter.

I am much more use to having a twist because of all my years on street and dirt bikes but I perfer a thumb on my banshee. 2 reasons. 1 - The way I like to ride most of the time the throttle is usually WOT or closed and I think the thumb is quicker for that. On a street bike you have to smoothly roll on the power comming out of corners and for most riding and the twist seems much more precise for that, but on the quad it seems like I stab the throttle a lot when riding. 2 - When you bouncing all over the place at high speed on really rough terain and doing all you can just to hang on, with the twist, I cant help but accidently open and close the throtle some when I just want to keep it at a steady RPM. The thumb throttle wears out my thumb bad when I don't ride very often but if I ride every couple of days I don't notice it at all.

Wait untill you know they are away from home and squeese a little super glue into the key holes on the house door locks (or car doors if available) then you can sit back and let them break their own windows trying to get into their house.

The air screws should stay the same with a twist throttle and or TORS removed and they should be a standard slotted screw not a bolt with a hex top. They turn very easy so I can't immagine stripping one unless you try to screw it in too hard after it is seated which isn't good to do either. Take a look at this Jetting FAQ it will show you a picture of the air screw, and its location. Make sure that you are turnign the right screw. If the air screw has been replaced with some sort of weird hardware store crappy jalappy screw then I would try to get new ones from a dealer. I think there is a website that will sell any part of the carb that you need and jets which will probably be cheaper and faster than a dealer but I cant remember what the site is and I never book marked it. Someone on here knows which site I'm talking about. Jetting FAQ

I wouldn't go less than 20cc without the crank trued and welded, with the +4 timing that would be pushing it. With the crank trued and welded then 18 or 19 with sraigth race fuel like the C-12.

Sorry, didn't see the K&N, use 3 to 4 sizes larger on the mains for the previous reccomendations.

For a base line to go off for a foam air filter 500 to 1000 elev, 40 to 60 deg: #30 pilots (27.5 will probably work too), air screws about 2 turns out Needle 4th clip from the blunt end for the reeds # 270 mains for lid on, snorkel removed With Lid Off use 290 mains If its colder than 40 deg then go to #300 mains (lid off) If warmer than 80 deg then go to #280 mains (lid off)

Port that puppy!

God Damb!! When I was looking for a banshee 6 monthes ago I couldn't touch anything that was worth owning for less than $4K within Northern CA or Oregon, so I just said screw it and bought a new one. Maybe its just CA or something?

Does anybody know if there has ever been a massive group effort or letter writing campaign to beg Yamaha to throw some power valves, stroker crank and/or some up to date shocks on a new banshee model and not charge anymore $?

Looks like SMI has better prices on just the tire itself but Rockey mountain has the better deal if you want a tire and rim package.

You have to make pretty drastic adjustments in the oil ratio like playnsand said since the oil is such a small part of the mix 32:1 = 3.1% oil, 40:1 = 2.5% oil, 50:1 = 2%oil. I'd say get some of those sliding vents that can be installed on the air box to increase flow. When it's hot run it w/o the air box lid. As it gets colder put the lid back on and open a vent or 2. When it gets like 40 or 50 degrees colder close all vents with lid on for maximum restriction of flow. Then as a last resort if it gets even colder go from 32:1 to 40:1 or 50:1 if your oil is designed to go that thin.

It depends a lot on what elevation you live at. A head that is cut for 165 psi at sea level should run fine on 91 octance with no timing advance. With a +4 timing advance its getting hard to say, probably ok with 93 octane but getting very close to the limit. When your getting pretty close to the limit of your octane requirements for your compression, all it takes is for you to run lean or too hot and you could still detonate. If you want to play it safe I wouldn't do the timing. Boonman cuts heads for a very inexpensive price that are around 145 - 150 psi (I think) so you could run the +4 timing with that cut. I'd ask him about cutting the head to get 165 psi because if they mill too much off the squish band without recutting the squishband and/or rechambering the dome then the combustion chamber wont have the right geometry and could also have clearance problems with the piston (needs like at least .030 from squish band to piston top).

I was also going to ask what kind of oil and does it do it after it's warmed up. Most of the bikes I've owned will somewhat want to lurch forward even if its ever so slight except for my Ducati which has a dry clutch. The duc has no bump, clunk or any noise when you but it into gear unlike a wet clutch bike.

I say get the +0 its a lot cheaper But seriously, do you feel compelled to hack the swingarm or something? I say take the money you'd spend on the swingarm and get a nicer rear shock and spring if you haven't already and it will be more of a noticeable improvement than + or - 2 inches.

In a drag race your ass is grass. In a tight MX track or one with a lot of jumps you might have a chance.

My Grandma is in her upper 70's and rides a polaris trailboss around her ranch, I don't think she'd be up for rippen around on the banshee though.

Aaaaah hell YA! This chick sounds like a candidate for Miss Banshee USA!

Survey says... BUUUUUUZZZZZ ( X ) wrong answer If you are jetted for the stock airbox and put on a K&N you will flow more air and need to re-jet whether you take the snorkle off or not. Take the snorkle off which obviously anybody would do and you will definitly need to rejet. The only way you wouldn't have to rejet is if you left the air box exactly the same and went with a foam filter (that flows the same as stock) instead of a K&N.

I sit on the grab bar, compress the suspension, and feel the chain. You don't want it to be rock solid tight when you do that. It needs to be able to move up and down like 1/2 in when the suspension is compresseed. I weigh like 240 so it squishes down pretty good.