Ducman

Shweeet

2 weeks after payment and no parts = negative feedback I have had some good luck sending a lil' nastygram saying I'll leave negative feedback if I don't get the parts or recieve a return e-mail in 3 days. But leave bad feedback either way, if your in the right everyone will see that in the feedback comments and know what's up even if you get dinged back in retaliation. Usually if your right and they do retaliate like that nobody with 1/2 a brain will buy from them again.

Did you get close enough to smell them? Maybe they were on that wackey weed and were too high to punch the butons on the cash register? The people at my steelership are always sober and punch the buttons really good, makes the walet ligter every time.

Oops don't know why that got quoted, musta hit the wrong button?

From the ones I checked out on e-bay they go 30 to 40 dolars if there in decent condition + shipping. I have the stock head off of my 04' on e-bay right new that is in perfect mint condition, looks brand new, only ever had 2 sets of plugs installed in them for opening bid of $40, buy it now for $45, $10 shipping. I'll throw in the O'l BHQ 10% discount for Ya if you "buy it now."

Just about any pipes will put out more bottom, mid, and top, compared to stock.

Hard to say how much swing arm its going to take to hold the front end of that beast down but I'd think that if you just like to have fun any more than +4 or +6 will start to make the turning suck. Might also want to extend out the a-arms and the axel to keep stability with the stretched out wheel base.

I think a properly jetted motor shouldn't ever wear out a plug due to fouling under normal riding conditions. Plugs are designed to self clean. The electrode will however wear out due to erosion of the tip aventually, but should theoretically last a long time in a banshee under ideal conditions. I have had experience with plugs building up a resistance and starting to spark real weak causing them to go bad in a Husky 610 I used to own, but those were real tall and skinny weird plugs. The deal with the iridium plugs is supposed to be that they will spark as well as or better than the standard copper condutor plugs and resist electrode deterioration due to the high melting point of the iridium similar to platinum plugs so they will last longer. Platinum plugs will last longer than a typical copper plug but the resistance of the platinum is actually higher than the copper so the spark is actually not as strong, but as a coper electrode ages and deteriorates due to the tip actually melting and becoming rounded whichs opens the gap, its performance becomes worse than the platinum. The platinum plug basically averages out the performance of a standard plug, but over a longer life. The iridium is supposed to give you a beter spark and last longer. However, from another post, sredish has experienced that the iridium plug seems to have a lot stronger spark than the equivalent coper plug acting like a plug ran with an amplified ignition system which caused him to need to jet a little richer and netted some performance gain.

Sometimes after messing around for a while with a problem that causes it not to run right even when you get it fixed it wont run right due to all the fuel and oil built up in the system. She might come around when she warms up just be cautious.

21cc will probably work with +3 timing, consult your engine builder on how the port work will affect the dynamic compression. 20cc is probably too small with any timing advance to be safe with 93 octane.

The adjustable timing plate costs like $45 and the degree key costs like $10 but the advance plate it easier to install and can be easily adjusted.

Good job, sounds like you are pretty close, you might want to go to 350's if the band is less than 2mm. Did you measure the brown band at the base of the electrode? Your only looking for 2mm, that is less than 1/8 of an inch, so check it, you may be just right. In my experience i have found that if your dialed in slightly on the lean side, the power is good, but the bike tends to heat up a little faster on hill climbs and situations where your in the band under heavy load for a long time. Slightly on the rich side and it runs cooler and no change in power.

Punk ass Biiiiioootch! Someone needs to send this guy a NYUK style UPS package like the one he sent another little punk ass biotch off e-bay. Hehehehe

Nope. You just need the silencer. I believe the procircut spark arrestor just bolts on to the end of the silencer. If you need arrestors for riding in parks you can always get them later.

I'm going to say you'd be at about #30 pilots, needle 1 clip richer than stock (4th from blunt end) and 300 mains. I'm assuming Quebec is pretty low elevation near sea level. You'd be around 270 on the mains with the air box lid on in the summer. Basically if you have had it correctly jetted with the PTR's for the summer, add one size on the main jets for every 20-30 degrees coldeer it is now. I figured about 80 degrees colder so go up about 3 sizes on the mains compared to summer jetting. This is an approximation. You still need to to a plug chop to verify your jetting, or go bigger on the mains untill it bogs at WOT in the taller gears then go down one size on the mains to where it doesn't bog. This would put your main jetting at a safely rich setting. It is always a good idea to error on the rich side. Read how to do a plug chop Here

Yup, go up one size on the pilots if you get to within 1/2 turn out on the airscrews and turning them in makes it run beter. I like to do the pilots first since they add fuel to all of the jetting circuts affecting WOT conditions along with the mains, that is, as soon as you crack the throttle the pilots add 100% of the fuel that will flow through them and they dont shut off, they keep flowing through WOT. So if you get the mains dialed and then add larger pilots you will be a little richer on top then you were before you added the pilots. You mains may need to be rejeted as well. Do a plug chop. In my opinion that is the only reliable way to check main jetting, reading plugs can be decieving and if you throw in a new set and do a quick run through the gears at WOT to the top of 6th the plug electrode insutator will still be white except the 2mm brown band at the base of the electrode insulator. You need to remove a portion of the threads on the plug to create a notch to easily see the 2mm band. 2mm = just right, More than 2mm = rich, less and 2mm or no band = lean.

Is that kind of like a cosmopolitian?

I wonder what would happen if you ran one heat range colder? I think that would be BR7eix. Maybe in that case you wouldn't have to rejet? Maybe even though the heat range is rated the same it actually isn't? On the other hand these plugs probably are producing a lot hotter spark which would be similar to running a higher voltage coil or a ignition amplifier which would require larger mains which would explain why your rejetting was necessary. Usually plugs don't vary that much due to lower impedence, just heat range, but apparently these one do. One thing to consider is that with a hotter plug (usually considering heat range though not spark output), if you are close to having a detonation problem due to high compression and pump gas, a hotter plug will put you into the danger zone. Sounds like a good mod for the price if they actually produce a noticeable difference.

Need more info: Air box lid on or off Foam or K&N filter Air temp Elevation

I have FMF Gnarleys and the SST's even though they have a diferent power delivery, jet similarly, so my set up (see signature now 2 turns out on air screws) may help, I'm also near sea level at about 50 deg. F. I have a foam filter, I'm not sure if you mean foam or K&N when you say proflow, but if your foam then 290 should be ok on the main possibly 300 since you have the timing advance. 320 to 330 if K&N You should have your needle in the stock clip or possibly one richer. Turn your air screws in after it is good and warmed up, if it idles better and has better throttle responce off idle the more you turn the screws in untill thsy are all the way in the you need to go up one pilot size. I think the pilot along with the needle may be your problem. Trying the old oil and new plugs first couldn't hurt though.

So your saying that the rebuild on the nikisil cylinder is extended because the bore doesn't get enlarged due to the friction of the piston and rings? I thought that typically the rings wore out well before the cylinder bore and/or piston. I guess I am misunderstanding why the rebuild is extended on a nikisil bore? In a typical iron sleeve cylinder that is going bad from a long period of use, isn't ring wear usually what is causing the loss of compression not cylinder wear? I thought that in a nikisil bore you usually get one of those micropolishes on the bore so the rings get much less wear durring break in. The rings basically don't have to wear into the cylinder wall they just have to "set" after a couple of heat cycles. I can see why nikisil can extend the life of the bore just not the length of the rebuild if it doesn't extend the life of the rings. I'm not stating any of this as fact, just how I though it worked. If that's wrong, which is probably the case, then learn me how it is.

For best Hookup for dragging or hill climbs - straight paddle: Skate Track - Haulers - 20x10x10 - 8 paddle For best all around dunning - v paddle: ITP - Sand Stars - 20x10x10 Same for both bikes

If you can find out the circumference of the flange and/or the equivelent circular diameter of the K&N then you can compare the 2 filters. If you measure it yourself then you need to be exremely accurate because + 5mm on the circunference might still seal, - 5mm and it wont go on the flange. If you can measure the circunference (in mm) then divide it by 3.14 that will give you the radius. Next multiply the radius by 2 to get the diameter. Ask the guy what diameter the foam filter rubber coupler is (if it isn't so old it is stuck in a oval shape and wont relax and go round like when it came new). The other option is to buy a foam filter from a site that sells foam filters by the diameter of the rubber coupler opening, I know I've seen a couple. I'd just buy a new one (there like $20) if you cant get an accurate mesurement on the used one your trying to buy.

Yeah, traction and distance changes the whole match. I saw a well done comparison with a piped banshee, a piped raptor, and a the new Kawi v-twin whatever. All machines were pretty new and not highly modified, I believe all with stock tires. This particular race was on a fairly smooth dirt road. I dont remember the distance but it was a fairly short sprint. The Kawi V-twin was first, followed by the banshee and then the raptor in each of about 10 races. But the Kwai V-twin weighs like a ton and has an automatic transmission so of coarse its going to hook up off the line in the dirt. In another comparison that I saw in a reputable magazine for a longer distance the Kawi V-twin was dead last of all the sport machines at the end of the didsance but was about first in the first 100 ft or so. I'd say that if your on dirt make sure that the race is a long one where you can top out in 6th so you can give the shee a chance to put down some of its power down. They spin the wheels real bad up through 3rd on dirt compared to a 4 stroke but hook up pretty good from 4th on up. On AC you should get far forward on the seat so you can keep the front wheels down and I'd say the raptor should dissapear after shifting into 3rd.

Does anybody have any long term experience with the maintenance cost with a nikisil cylinder? Doesn't the nikisil make a set of rings last a whole lot longer? Does it extend rebuilts and usually make a blown piston just a mater of honing the cylinder to clean it up and throw in a new set of pistons, or does the nikisil end up getting wrecked often enough requireing a re-cote? In the second case you end up loosing any savings in the long run (say 6 years) that you would have made due to less maintenance cost in the short run (say 3 years).