Ducman

Maybe you should elaberate by what you mean by bogging in higher gears. Is it not going into the band and revving out cleanly or is it just not making quite enough power on the top end to sustain speed in a high gear (5th or 6th) when you are going up and incline or something like that? We need to determine if your bike is running correctly and your just not satified with the power or if their is a problem and that's why it is bogging in higher gears. In this forum, bogging is generally a term used to describe a problem where the motor is not reving as high as it should due to a too lean or too rich condition. As for the compression, if you have a trued and welded crank I guess your bottom end could take the punishment but it seems like compression that high would cause crank bearings, rings , ect to wear out alot faster. You definitly need to be running straight 114 octane race fuel to not have a detonation problem. Assuming a stock motor and no porting, if you dropped dome size to say 20cc then you could run 1/2 race fuel and 1/2 pumpgas or possibley even straight premuim pump gas. 21cc straight premium pump gas for sure. This will save some $ on fuel and possible maintenance but going down in compression will drop a little power as well, and you are looking for more. If everything is good with your setup, crank, jetting, and is more or less running properly then maybe you do just need a higher revving pipe to suit your riding style? FMF SST's?

Do it.

210 and 200, thats some seriously friggin high compression! I'm sure your running race fuel and all that right? With compresion like that your jetting is pretty critical. A lean jetting problem would be much worse than with a lower compression because it can bring detonation into the picture even with race fuel. Warming it up before a compression check will give you more consistant results and will help the rings seal better. Sometimes you might be 5 to 10 lower in oner cylendar when testing cold, and warm they will be even or either could go up possibly 5 to 10. I think you should be able to rev out cleanly in high gears, just won't pull as hard as high rev pipes. Dyno port 2-1 pipes have a little differt jetting than duels, but post your jetting and mods anyway and maybe someone with a similar setup will be able to tell you what they run.

What position is the needle clip at now?

I run yamalube R at 32:1 and I don't have any oil in the pipe or silencer problem unless I am dicking around with the jetting and starting it when its cold a lot without going out and riding it. If I only start it once, let it warm up, then ride it for a while, the oil isn't a problem and the pipes stay pretty clean. Start it 2 or three times for a couple of minutes without riding and its poopin oil. No a ton, but definitly noticeable.

I have a set of Gnarlies and they do have great low to mid. Alot more top end than stock too, but what pipe doesn't. They rev out in 6th for me and I'm 240 lb, but they don't pull hard on top like a high rev. They rip realy well up through 4th. You use a lot less clutch if any to his the band in 1st - 3rd and don't have to shift down as much. The Fatties are supposed to have a little more mid and top than the Gnarlies. The SST's have more emphasis on mid a top end but still have decent bottom, not as top end specific as say Toomeys. I would guess the Fatty would be about comparable as far as power delivery to the PTR mid but cost less.

Blacksmith = Mc Guyver?

Air leak? Or get a priest and perform an exhorcism? Seems like very late timing to be getting that much fuel in the pipe and igniting.

If there is another guy with the same exact mods as yours, and assuming that they have their jetting done correctly, then yes you should be at the same jetting or only one size different or so. Each shee can be a little different even with the same mods but close. BUT!!!!!!!!!! Let assume that all your friends are running the same pipes and mods and everything is exactly the same on your shee as well, exept, they are all running foam air filters and you are running a K&N. So then, you go ahead and install the same jetting as your friends and guess what happens next. KABOOOOOOOM Your motor is effin toast because you should have been at lest 4 sizes larger on the mains. You were taking in soooooo much more air with the K&N vs the foam air filters that everyone else has, that you were running very lean and they were all fine. Didn't your mamma tell you not to jump off a bridge just because your friends did it first! Now compound that with the reality that everone has different mods - pipes, degree keys, filters, porting, ect. Bee careful! Learn to do a plug chop because althrough a nice chocolate brown plug is usually a good indication that the jetting is good, looking at a plug that has been in the cylinder while the bike was cold and sat for 2 minutes while warming up won't tell you chit. If you won't read and heed the Jetting FAQ for yourself then do it for the love of the banshee. I just don't want to see you posting: do I need to bore my formerly stock cylinder sleeves .040 or .060 to get to get rid of these massive gouges my melted piston and broken rings left.

Don't pick a set of pipes by the sound, pick them by the type, low, mid, high rev according to the way you plan on riding, unless you are just trying to pick between 2 similarly tuned pipes and want to see which one sounds beter.

I can't really testify as to your mods and sst's but with my gnarleys I guarantee I will pretty much kick the crap out of any bone stock banshee in lets say a 4th gear roll on. It may be true with a set of extremely high rev drag pipes but I highly doubt it would be that way with a pair of SST's. The FMF fatty and gnarley are more of a low end to mid range pipe. The SST's are more of a mid to top end pipe that are still supposed to maintain a decent low end. Stock pipes suck really bad on top but are so restrictive that they really aren't that great of a low end pipe either. If you are jetted properly it shouldn't be that bad on the bottom. I still think that you are WAAAAAY to lean especially on the mains and even pilots with the sst's + k&N. You need to be careful you don't over do it at this point or you'll be overhauling it. If you go to the biggest pilot that you can while remaining in the range of between 1 to 2.5 turns out on the air screws the bigger pilot will generally improve the botton end power and throttle response over a smaller one. There has to be someone else in this forum with your exact same mods that can give you the correct jetting. I now for sure that my shee gets a little on the lean side with 260 mains when it gets cold out; like 50 degrees and I have the air box lid on and a foam filter that flows like the stock one with pipes that aren't as high reving. According to the Banshee Jetting FAQ which is pretty darn accurate on a non ported motor, you should go up the following # of sizes on the mains and pilots for each of your mods = remove snorkle + 1-2, remove lid + 1-2, K&N + 4-6 and 0-1 on the pilots, pipes + 8 and +2 sizes on the pilots. Main sizes also increase with a decrease in temp and elevation. So from this estimate for where your final jetting should be, at the very least you should be at a 340 main and probably a #30 pilot. At the high end you would be at a 380 main. Really you should be shooting for the rich side to start, where it bogs from being too rich on the top end and decrease main jet sizes until you get it in tune so it doesn't bog. So it ends up being 1 to 2 jet sizes on the mains below where it bogs at wide open throtle. This will ensure that you aren't running lean. If you jet it way too lean your pistons are on a very short trip to meltdown land. So far from the posts I have herd on this forum the Jetting FAQ has given rock solid advise. I highly advise that you read it in its entireity before continuing on because right now you are soaked in gassoline with a match in your fingers looking for a place to light it! http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Typically once you warm the bike up for a couple of minutes and then go to take it for a spin, if it is going to foul the plugs it will happen in the first couple of minutes. If you take it out and never get it in the power band you may foul the plugs although when I was breaking mine in this never happened to me even with 24:1 mixed gas. If you take it out and wind it up a couple of times, do some hard acceleration up through the gears at least 1-3, to get the cylinders good and hot it will clean them out and you can ride it for quite a while without worrying about fouling the plugs. If it starts feeling sluggish or boggy throttle response after a long time of put put, wind it up again and it will clean the cylinders out. As long as the plugs stay at a reasonable operating temp they will self clean unless you have a jetting or too much oil in the gas mix problem. Also keep a fresh set of plugs in a zip lock bag with the tools under the seat. There are tools under the seat to change the plugs. If it gets fouled and you cant start it and clean it out, throw in new plugs, 5 min tops, and your fine again. Plug foulding realy shouldn't be that big of a problem even if you baby it alot on a stock machine unless you have other problems. You are also much much less likely to hurt anything by running it in cold weather on the stock pipes with stock jetting, causing a lean condition, if your just crusing around. If your in the band at wide open throttle for a long time that when things get heated up and melt pistons when your jetted too lean. I wouldn't change the jetting much from stock unless you ride it at 40 degrees and colder or ride it in a location with a major elevation change from where it's jetting is dialed in (1500' or more) unless you really start riding it hard.

If it's by USPS surface shipping it depends on when the boat leaves the port. Usually USPS says shipping can be from 4 to 6 weeks. My experience is that is usually gets there faster, like 2 to 4 weeks. I have had USPS priority mail get lost for a couple weeks and amazingly finally gets delivered. If it's express mail then, I believe, there should automatically be a tracking #. Good Luck

I'm pretty happy with my FMF Gnarlies, tons of power in low to mid and gets in the band quick and snappy. Excellent for trails and technical hill climbs with bumps, varrying traction and obsticles. Haven't tried them with paddles in the sand yet though.

I don't have very much experience with hi revs but I think the cpi would be my first choise since they typically do good with porting which you want to get in the future and a very close second place to the T-5's since they are also decent w/porting. T-5's would probably be a better choise now, CPI's later. Pic mods so they work with future plans so you don't have to take steps backwards.

I think it is easier with the tank off but I'm not sure if it's absolutely necessary. If you remove the tank then you can remove the carb slide without removing the carburator from the boots which can also be a pain. I think you have to do one or the other (remove carbs, or remove tank to get at the top of the carbs). I still have the TORS on so they make handeling the carb tops more of a pain and the more accessable the carbs are the better. It really doesn't take more that about 5 min to remove the tank and plastics and 5 to reinstall. If you have changes to the pilot or main jetting to do then you have to remove the carbs anyway. Then you could try to do the needles without removing the tank. Are you sure that you need to adjust the needles? On my shee if the pilots and mains are in good adjustment it only makes a very slight almost unnoticeable difference moving it from the stock clip to one clip richer.

Get another person to help hold the spring that doesn't mind that your cussing at the clip as you are trying to get it back in the slide to hold the cable before it pops out of the holder again and again. Take a good look at how the clip is positioned in the slide to hold the cable before you turn the slide upside down and the clip falls out. After youve put the clip back in once it will get easier everytime after, but the first time is a pain especially by yourself. If by yourself then the zip tie on the spring helps but not absolutly necessary. Let the force be with you!

Yeah, the cheapist part is usually the weakest link. Those "O" rings cost whole lot more when it gets cold out and they bust ur damb space ship, and the "good stuff" might work wonders for sealing that gap around the window frame of your house that keeps letting in the cold draft in, but when you try to try to make it stick to the outside of your liquid oxygen/hydrogen fuel tank at mach 6, aventually it might bust ur damb space ship! Sometimes you can engineer the piss out of an item but you didn't account for the part that's going to break and muff the whole thing up.

Depends on what kind of riding you want to do. If your on tight trails and dont have a lot of open areas to realy go very fast and use the top end performace then the dyno port exhaust would be fine. If your going to be mainly a sand guy where you can use the top end power and dont stay in 1rst or 2nd gear very oftern then you would want to get some high rev pipes. I myself do mostly trails and hill climbs in wooded areas where you cant realy get going faster than 3rd gear most of the time and some rocky/sandy creek bottoms and about 20% open sand dunes so I got a set of low to mid range pipes (FMF Gnarleys) I would like to have a set of high rev pipes to swap back and forth with the mids someday for when I go to the doons but I have a lot of other mods I want first.

Like boonman said, if you go more than .030 you will need to have the squshband modified as well for piston clearance and for correct combustion geometry. Not very mny shops are capable of performing this. Also at more than .030 you will need to possibly run a mix of race and pump fuel or straight race fuel so you don't have a detonation problem. If you go over .030 and don't have your crank trued and welded you will trash your bottom end a lot faster too. It would be a good idea to check your compression after installing the head milled as well as checking your squish clearance.

I think along the lines of boonman and 909. You could spend a ton of money on the theoretically perfect fly wheel shape and It would only make a tiny difference over a conventional flywheel in the bikes overall weight and in that once it is spun it might take less energy to keep it going due to not putting as much force on bearings and frictional components. This would only be because the bearings wouldn't have to be as beefy because the PRODUCT of enertia that the lighter hub could generate would potentialy be smaller even though the enertia is the same because nothing is absolutely perfectly balanced and spins perfectly true. At the same time the facor of safety goes down. The moving weights on the flywheel is a super Idea and would probably make a significant difference but there is no way that anyone would be able to develop one that wouldn't fly appart at 10K rpm much less a solid flywheel with a paper thin hub unless you had a multi billion dolar budget like NASSA and needed some exotic super light weight engine component where every gram of weight you shaved would save $10k on the cost to launch the object into obit or something. I think that the forces that the outer rim of the flywheel exert on the hub area just make it completely impractical. What might be more practical would be to somehow connect the flywheel to the crank with some sort of a slipper clutch mechanism so you could more or less turn the effects of the flywheel on or of. (Neglecting the whole stator and timing problem of course) But the problem is that when would you turn it on or off? Sometimes you need the flywheel to smooth out acceleration like when your wheels suddenly slip for a moment and then hook-up again. You dont want the engine to rev to the moon instantly every time the wheels slip in the slightest bit (negleting the flywheel effect of the tires and wheels and kenetic traction). Also when your downshifting you want the motor to resist spinning up too fast so you dont break stuff by accelerating the rods, crank, pistons faster then they can take it. The flywheel always acting on the motor makes it smoother and more consistant weither accelerating or decelerating. So, I say that there isn't any practical way to improve the flywheel other than (1) removing material from the rim; the conventional methods that exists, (2) buying a very expensive aftermarket flywheel that takes advantage of higher quality materials to distibute the weight to a more theoretically efficient shape, or (3) more or less removing the flywheel altogether; each of these steps getting more impractical from 1 to 3. After that unless your NASA, forget it!

Time for her to ditch the kitty site and step up to the bowl where the big dogs eat! Yeah, and I'll blaze the trails on the shee and you can blame the tears in your eyes on the dust you've been eatin. Better hope there's no straights though cause I'll be in another effin time zone by the time the ol' ex reaches the end of the trail.

Stock pilots are a #25. The stock mains are #200. If your running lean at idle (on the pilots) then you need to turn the screw in further. If you turn the air screws to within 1/2 turn of being all the way in then you need to go up a size on the pilot. Some people seam to be able to get good tuneing on the the idle with stock mains so whatever you can get to work, do it. The important one to get correct is the mains so you dont burn up the pistons by running lean when your running at wide open throttle.

Make sure the engine is warm to do the compression test or your test #'s might come out a little lower than they really are.

You could always put a small hole in the back of the airbox lid and keep enlarging it untill the 300's come in if they turn out to be too rich. This would add a bit of HP too.