Ducman

BANSHEEFIEND, the way you measured it sounds close enough. I would say that you could be off + or - 1cc. If your getting 19.5cc (probably 19cc with the plug in) I would say it would require race fuel mixed 50/50 with 94 pump fuel. 20cc dome would work with 94 if you run it at stock timing or if you are at 1500+ ft elevation. If you do install the head then measure compression you'll have a better idea as long as you have stock cylinders. 160psi or less will be ok on 94 octane. But, if you have porting with a raised exhaust port then you will read a lower psi with the same dome size, then you cant assume 160 psi is ok with 94. It is best to meausre the volume with the plug in as it takes up about 1/2 of a cc. Just screw the plug into the dome, cut a hole in a cardboard box and sit the dome/head on the box so the dome is facing up and level. Fill it with a syringe using rubbing alcohol since it has very little surface tension. If you use water (high surface tension) it will form a dome of water (miniscus) before it spills over the edge so your number could be alot larger than the actual volume. You can still have trinity or an machine shop that knows how to correctly cut domes, recut the domes to a larger volume.

I'd say a stock stroke cub motor, cpi or similar pipes, 35mm carbs and other supporting mods with a +4 swingarm and 21x12x8 10 paddle extremes (+6 if you want to go 22" - 12 paddle, better for drags not as fun all around duner) would be a fund all around dune setup that would spank the 450 and be the best bang for the least $'s spend.

You are probably talking about the 04' limited edition. This pic is about a couple years old.

Any banshee rims 1990' -2006' should be interchangeable. Also YFZ 450 rear rims fit and make a banshee +2.5" wider in the rear. The YFZ 450 front rims will make a banshee -1.5" narrower though so stay away from them. Raptor rims will fit but the offset could be different.

Is there a link to a pic I'm not seeing or something? Cutegirl, if you really are a cute girl with nice fake tits and wanted to come to this forum to discuss banshee mods you shouldn't have teased us with the fake boobs comment. If you would have come looking for knowledge and not just trying to get attention there would be no controvercy and we would have gladly gave advice and responded seriously. Now if you want anybody to take you serious your going to have to put up or shut up. One pic of you sitting on your banshee showing your boobs with a sign that says BHQ rules and you will be accepted. I don't care if the pic is of you or your sister or girlfriend. Post a pic or piss off!

According to the news from a Sacromento talk radio station this morning, sounds like tuesday will be Tookies last day. Good ridance.

Read the info in the link below. It will explain how in perfect detail. (jetting FAQ)

Hot Tub = Liquid Bikini Remover

Yeah, nice to meet you. Ok, now show us your tits. You can just PM me a pic if your shy. I wont tell anybody else...

The only hard part I had is with the needle jet orafice,getting the correct one. Lucky for me, I got some good advice from the place I got the carbs and got it right the first time, but when I first put the carbs on and ran it, it sucked. After I got the right needle jets, getting the needle position right was pretty easy, although recently I second guessed myself and it screwed me. Didn't realize I was so close detonating and that a lean needle could do it. The pilot and main have both been a piece of cake to tune.

Well in CA they sell for $8K OTD (tax + BS fees ect) new so it would go for $6K easy here. My friend just bought an 05 YFZ450 for $5500 used with a slip-on pipe and nurfs with very low hours, still had stock knobbies in good shape and I thought he got a really good deal. Other states it would probably go for a little less. I would sell it and ask no less than $5900. I wouldn't give the guy more than $4k for the firebird. Those things self destruct after $120k miles.

Maxis 4-snow, ITP mudsharks (RM was selling these for $30 ea on closeout), ITP paddle masters - heavy but very tough paddles

I have a set from chosen performance that fit but I had to trim 1/2" off the stinger tube to make the silencers line up with the mounting holes. I believe duners pipe seals dont require trimming the stinger and probably cost a few $ less. The chosen seals look nice though.

You should already be very close. Raising the compression is not supposed to change jetting but timing advance will. I would go up 1 main size maybe 2 to be safe.

I would try some P6 needle jets and set the clip to about the middle position. I run the P8's in my TM34's but I have been told that they are still a pretty rich needle jet for most banshee applications. I run the TM 34's on my 4mm dune port stroker. I run 35 pilots, air screws 2.0 turns out, P8 needle jet orafice, and 310 mains, rocket pipes, pod filters, +6 timing, 145psi w/ 18cc stroker domes, about 300-400ft (at home) elevation, 100 octane. When I ride near my house the P8 needle jets are pretty good with the stock needle that came new with the carbs on the 2nd clip from the blunt end. I have the actual needle # written down somewhere if you need it to verify you have the same one. When I go over 2000ft they get noticeably richer, too rich. But recently when I dropped them to the first clip from the blunt end (leanest needle setting) and ran it at sea level and 50 deg F it was way too lean. It leaned it out enough to cause some detonation on 100 octane that I usually run w/ no problems. Didn't blow my motor but on inspection had F'ed up both my pistons enough so that they need to be replaced. So my motor is definitely in the P8 needle jet range, but your cub cylinders are a lot different, not to mention the stock stroke.

Yes, I knew that. What I was trying to ask is why would you choose the smaller bore cylinders over the larger. Is there any advantage or power characteristic to the smaller bore cylinders? You have to buy one or the other, why would you buy the smaller bore cylinders?

Costs $85 usd here. You should make friends with someone on the HQ, paypal the money to them for stuff and have them ship it to you. You would still save money including the cost of shipping except you'd have to wait 2 weeks to get stuff.

+2 or if your making some decent power +4 swingarm and show us the goods pretty please!

If you are blow 1000 ft elevation with 19cc domes you will need to run race fule mixed 50/50 with pump fuel.

You can get a primary drive o-ring chain and sprockets from RMatv for well under $80 shipped. I have the gold coated primary drive o-ring chain right now and I think it is a quality chain. It has stretched very little so far and is very easy to clean due to the gold coating. Doesn't rust with the salty ocean air and beach riding and the OR dunes.

Its hard to tell from the picture if there is detontaion because it leaves really small pits, but its obvious you have dammage from a broken piston. The question is what broke the piston. Look at the piston for small pits which will make the surface look real ruff and eroded especially around the edges. If one side is detonation the other probably will show signs of detonation too. If you dont see any evidence of detonation then it could have been several things, snagged ring on a port, crank/rod bearings getting sloppy, bore was too far out of spec, ect.

We got stopped for a sound check at Horse falls OR. We has a utility quad, a blaster and a YFZ 450. They just wanted to check the blaster. It had a brand new FMF turbine core silencer. There were 3 forest rangers, 2 younger bitches and one older guy that turned out to be alright. They were getting 96/97 DBs at idel and were all set to give us a ticket, I turned down the idel a bit and got it to stay at 96 DB and the bitches still were all about writing a ticket since it violated (just barely) on the first try. Meanwhile there were people passing by at well over 30+ mph on a whooped out sand road, loud as fock, WOT just getting it on and I said why in the hell are you stopping us, every one of those people that went buy were well over the limit. They said "We cant stop everone." I was getting sooooo pissed at the bitches because we were out for just a little put put ride with my wife and dad. The old guy knew it was total bullshit and never argued with me like the bitches and said we were ok and let us go. Most of the rangers seem pretty cool though and make everyone laugh when they do doughnuts in their ranger trucks out in the sand. The enviro nazi bitches fresh out of college with their BS degree in biology seem to be out to fock us though.

I have ran it for almost 2 years now and it does a hell of a lot better than regular old radiator fluid. With regular fluid my motor would heat up some times after a long hill climb to point where it would puke out a little fluid on my pipes from the radiator vent tube. It never does it with engine ice and seems to run a lot cooler.

Good info RATBIKE0130 , that is how I thought the cubs were. You shouldn't need custom domes, just bigbore domes if your using the 68mm bore. What would be the advantage of running the 795 series banshee pistons (65mm bore) if you have a long rod or stroker long rod crank? Wouldn't you always be better off with the blaster pistons (68mm bore) due to the larger displacement and bigger port windows in the piston?

If you bought Mikuni TM34mm carbs, I didn't look at the e-bay add, but thats what I'm running. See my motor settup in the sig. You need to run about a 30 -35 pilot (I run #35, different style pilot jet than stock), you need to install about a P-8 needle jet orafice, some refer to it as the dump tube (thats what I'm running) and I run a 310 main (uses same mains as stock banshee carbs). The 310 main size I use isn't over rich at all, right on the money when I got it dynoed with the A/F sniffer. You'd probably be fine at around 310 + or - snce your at a high elev. You can order the needle jet orafice from Sudco.com, there about $15 ea. When I bought my carbs new they came with a Q-2 orafice which was way to rich. I run the same needle that came with the carbs. I have the stock TM34 needle # written down at home if you need the # to verify yours is the same.