Ducman

Nice HP numbers! Dyno looks like a typical banshee graph with a dip at 6K, at least for top end port/pipes. Its also common to have some smaller dips or say two peaks at 8K or above like yours. A bike will typically make the best HP numbers in one particular gear, mine was by far the best in 4th gear (stock gearing). The curve will look similar in the other gears, a little broader in lower gears and more peaky in higher gears, it just wont hit as high of numbers in other gears. If you go with a lower or higher geared front sprocket you will typically just shift the highest HP number to one gear higher or lower, but the max output number wont change much.

If shee is brand new, just broke-in, and your still running the original plugs, try installing some new ones. That may make her start a lot easier. Plugs get dirty fast with 24:1 especially durring a engine break-in.

You shouldn't be having problems with the pods comming off. You might want to try uni foam pods as a cheap alternative, they seem a little easier to clamp on too. You might like the Toomey 2 into 1 filter, everyone who has it on here has said they liked it. Better for water than pods.

Right-ON! Sounds like you have a welth of experience to share.

Well, my grandparents, and my wifes grandparents were from farm families that survived the great depression where there were no handouts and you had to work hard just to eat, have a place to sleep, and get by. Her parents and my parents both had a strong sence of work ethic and so do we. I don't know how in the hell society has gotten to the point that they think the rich or people who work hard to earn money should give the poor a freebee lifestyle. Now it is too the point where free is no longer good enough? It pisses me off that poor people even live in cities that they have no way of affording. It guarentees that as long as they are there they will depend on your money for them to maintain their lifestyle. If your a typical person who works for a living and pays thier own way, if you can't afford to live in the city, you dont! You live where you can find work that makes it affordable to live there. If I can only make $30K a year, I dont live in San Francisco where rent is $2k per month! I was a bleading heart while in college and wanted to make the world a better place and give people a hand up. Now I realize that they just want a handouts. And when you have to pay 40% of your paycheck for a jacked up insurance rate for suck ass service and taxes you realize how fuckt those handouts make it for everyone else. I look at this as a wake up call. Liberals look at it as a need to spend more money so we can give all these turds a limo ride out of town and some spedin cash next time an evauation is called. Look at the difference between what happened in Texas (right to work state) and Louisianna (welfare state).

20 hours! Once you have 1 tank of break-in fule through her she's ready to rock. I'd do a couple heat cycles, start it up and let it warm up for about 10 minutes, and then shut if off and let it cool for about 1 hr. Then ride it very nicely for about 1/2 hr vary the throttle alot and dont ever hold it pinned at WOT. Let it cool all the way down (about 1+ hr). Do this step again. Then ride it again for 1/2hr to 45 min and rev it up a little more, use the whole throttle range but dont hold it pinned WOT. Now you should be abouyt through the break-in gas the dealer put in it, so fill up the tank with 36:1 Yamalube 2r and you are ready to ride, or drain the tank and fill it with some better oil at 40:1. I wouldn't run your shee like you stold it on the second tank, but I wouldn't baby it either. I would change the spark plugs after break in and dont be suprised if it runs like it is real cold blooded and fouled up when you are doing easy break in riding. Once it is broke in and you are riding it normally with a lot of WOT the motor wont seem as cold blooded. Also, never just fire up the shee when it is cold and go out and rip on it, you always need to get her good and warm first for about 2 minutes. You can almost feel when she is good and warm and ready to go, like when forplay is over.

Supposedly, if the nasty tors demon strikes, it will be when you are WOT just about to attempt to jump a 60' gap. tors is supposed to cut spark when when it senses your throttle is closed but the slides or slide is stuck open. Maybe you have a sticky slide? Might just give the carbs a good solvent bath to get off any gooooey oil buildup on the slides and the problem may go away. But get rid of the tors aventually.

Put some hair around it? J/k The dump tubes should get snug in their hole when you put the main jet on and snug it down.

Thats wierd, I ran it with my stock singarm with stock 41T sproket and it fit just like the stock guide, and it fits the same on my +4 arm also, doesn't touch the sprocket, chain sits right in the middle of the guide.

Yes, I do believe that you need the rear chain guide slider. The chain will try to de-rail or try to catch on top of the sprocket teeth. The slack side of the chain is on the bottom when your under power and sometimes when your in the sand the chain gets some side load when you are nearly axel deeps in ruts or diggin deep in soft (and especially wet) sand. So your saying the slider is pushing on the side of the chain causing it to not line up straight with the sprocket? Can you put some washers between the slider and the swingarm mount to get it in the correct allignment (if the chain is being pushed towards the swing arm), or remove some material from the side of the slider so it mounts closer to the swingarm if the chain is being pushed away from the swing arm. If I remember correctly, the stock rear chain guide/slider is one solid piece. The top of the UPP rear guide is split in the middle, then you could mount it 1/2 on either side of the mount plate, would that fix your problem? If the slider is pushing up on the chain because you have a large back sprocket then I would run 13/40 or 13/41 should be about the same as 14/44 but will probably require one link shorter chain.

Sorry Bro, banshee's just haul ass. No seriously, I think your being a slight bit humble since your an a banshee forum. But we appreciate the integrity.

If I had a vagina you'd have to get in line! It would be buisy 24-7

I have seen a 80 HP 700cc built raptor that would hand you your ass but if its just the run of the mill piped craptor then as long as you get good traction he's dust.

That funny odaen, you and I were writing a reply and thinking the same exact thing, same exact time.

My problem with the stock swingarm and why I went +4, as is most sand riders, is that if you get too much traction especially with a built motor putting out decent HP is the front end just shoots for the sky in 1-3 gear at wot. Even with my sand stars and stock swingarm on the drag strip area at Winchesterbay (illegal now) I had a hard time getting a good hole shot on some guys making less HP is because I had to usually short shift 1-3rd gears because the front end would come up violently fast, way before the end of the gear. Once I could rev out 4th w/o the front comming up I could rip past most anyone that I couldn't hole shot. If you dont have this problem running 22x11x8 10 paddle superlites on a stock swingarm then your probably way down on power or had a 100# weight strapped to the front bumper. Stock swingarm is good for riding wheelies, not so much for drag racing or hill shooting. I do agree that if you have a long swingarm small tires aren't going to cut it, unless you have extremes or taller haullers with 10 paddles. I don't agree that if you have a stock swingarm and 22" -10 paddles that your going to get a good holeshot unless the sand is reaaaaaly soft and fluffy to the point that a 20" tire would just spin and not hook up. If its at all hard pack or firm sand you wont keep the front down with 22's. Try racing up Sand Mtn NV with a stock piped shee, you wont stand a chance against the stock YFZ 450's much less built shee's, except mabe the first 100', the next 1000' are going to be embarasing. Anyway, I'm pretty set on the 21x12x8 10 paddle extremes.

I dont know about your particular application, but some vehicles get better milage with an E-fan (electric fan) to replace the heavy stock fan/clutch assy. Supposed to free up a couple HP and make throttle response much faster. Typical cost is $300+ for a decent kit. A lot of them even cool better than the stock fan. I know when its 100 deg out my 5.4L F-150 feels like it looses 1/2 of its acceleration untill the RPMs get high enough to kick the fan clutch off.

I would measure the compression, make sure it isn't over 165 or so to run pump fuel. You are getting pretty close to the limits of pump fuel. A bigger bore will up the compression a little bit over a stock bore too, your compressing a larger area (x same stroke = more volume) into the same volume dome.

Just regular ol' straight 30 wt engine oil, cheap stuff, no synthetics or anything with friction modifiers or the clutch can slip easier. The antifreeze you are using is fine.

I was thinking she was pretty smart for switching the 1/2" wrench for a 12mm?

The cylinder on the left hand side looks funny almost like it was photoshopped on, not implying it was, just looks different sticking out like that. Thats an insane amount of HP, must have a lot of custom forged internal motor parts. I wonder what gear that dyno curve was made in; went to 95mph.

click this(reading spark plugs)

You sent the cylinders out to get ported and ened up that you got ported from behind instead?

Your problem is your pilots are too lean and the br9es plugs. Try a 27.5 pilot at 1.5 turns out on the airscrews and Br8es plugs.

1gallon = 128 oz Divide 128 by the ounces of oil to get your ratio. 128/3 = 42.66667 so you are about 43:1 You need to mix your oil within the recommendations on the back of the bottle. Some oils are made to mix at 100:1, most mix in the 20:1 to 50:1 range. I think banshee's runs best at 40:1 with most oils. But alot of people like the Amsoil that you mix at 100:1. I run Maxima Castor 927 at 40:1, I like it because it smells sweet, runs good and clean, and is redily available at any motorcycle shop.

I got 16 mpg in my lightning a couple weekends ago on a mountain Hwy with my foot smashing the peddel like a mofo. Must have past about 50 cars at WOT there and back, probably averaged 70 mph, but ran her up to 130 once on a straght section. I couldn't believe it still got 16mpg, go figure. Usually its between 14 to 16 hwy, buts its just a reg cab F150. The best is 17mpg hwy in the winter, windows up, AC off, same with my regular F-150 work truck. A friend of mine has a dodge crew cab 1/2 ton with a Hemi and gets about 13mpg highway. My uncle's 2003 chevy 1/2 ton pu ext cab 4x4 with the new v-8 (5.3L I think) that replaced the ol' 5.7L/350ci, got 18 and 19 mpg when I borrowed it for a road trip, in the winter A/C off windows up. In my experience, the small Chevy v-8's usually get the best mpg out of any truck v-8 motors.