badcompany

No kickstart. The handlebars are either chrome or aluminum, but either way kind of dull. Not sure exactly which model bars they are but they have a removable crossbar and are some sort of atv type of bend.

I'm not sure about 9 flat but I think 9s and even low 9s are very attainable. I ran a 12.27 at 98mph with 1/8 mile gearing on an uncut stock framed 350, on gas, inframes, no override, no bar and no slicks. Thats with low 7 eighth mile times in the high 80s. Theres cheetah cubs running low 6s and high 5s in the 1/8. One second faster at the 1/8 mile marker turns into alot faster at the 1/4 mile mark. Also, hes talking about building a motorcycle, which will weigh less all around, have much less rotating weight, and a taller tire which will help you gear for the 1/4 much easier. I say go for it, ive been wanting to do it forever. If it were me I would build a 4 or 7 mill cheetah cub and go all out, to keep it on the reliable side since 1/4 mile runs are pretty tough on the bike.

Answered and sent pms. Forgot to mention there are some stock carbs bored to 28mm and TORS removed with caps id take $100 for and a stock airbox with K&N for $30. Frame-$250 Pipes-$50 Swing arm-$25 A-arms-$50 Stock shocks-$50 for all 3 Works fronts-$100 2 stock grab bars-$5 each Complete front brake system-$50 Complete rear brake system-$50 Lonestar Axle-$75 Steering stem-$20 Front hubs-$30 Rear hubs-$30 Stock clutch perch with cable-$15 footpegs-$5 Renthal Handlebars-$15 Blue and White Stock uncut plastics, no graphics-$75 Also have a couple sets of unported stock cylinders and a set of rz cylinders, need to be bored-$200 a set Buyer pays shipping, prices are not exactly firm. Thanks guys

Im parting out a mostly stock 1998 banshee. I'll be keeping the engine, but everything else goes. Only non-stock items are a Lonestar +4 axle, works dual rate shocks, fmf fatties and powercore 2s. Theyre kinda rusty, the banshees been sittin for a while. Everything else is stock, frame and chassis is straight and clean, plastics line up perfect. I'm putting it on ebay soon but if anybody needs anything let me know and shoot me an offer, no set prices but the prices are LOW.

yea i race with tony and he'll back up any time ive said. the times on gas have been after years of riding and tuning the same basic setup. The pro-stock banshees used to be the biggest class around here. I ran a four over swingarm, the motor was a local ported motor by Albany Cycle Performance and i weigh 150 pounds. the frame had tabs and such removed. When I ran the 4.33 there was no bar but i eventually put a bar on it and it ran consistant 4.40s with a high 4.30 every once in a while. I dont think i have any timeslips because this was a while ago but ive ran in the 4.30s at two different tracks and 4.40s and 50s at basically every track we've been too. I do have a timeslip of the 4.06 run since it happened earlier this month.

i ran a 4.33 on a stock frame stock cylinder gas 350, no ovverride and inframes. Same motor on alcohol, override and stretched stock frame went 4.06 first time out.

Weve rode in albany a few times, thats where my builder is too. We mostly drag race though in Hazelhurst and in Waycross.

Valdosta, GA here. real dirty south

Yea, i bet the cars really tear the track up. Around here, the tracks are dirt/ clay, so they are pretty fast. The alky 350s run from 4.2s to 4.4s with an occasional 4.1, and the unlimited cub and bigger motors run high 3.8s to 4.0s. The track record at one track is a 3.78 by a 16 mill and the other track is a 3.86 with a 10 mill cub.

a local shop in Albany, Ga, they really know theyre stuff. They had a 400ex like 4 years ago that was running 4.70s, and a alky 350 runnin 4.3s back then, and another 350 they built was turnin 6.3s in the 1/8 recently. They also do streetbike work, one of the shop workers has a gsxr1000 that hauls, he rode a street class kawi zx10 in a local race and was turnin 5.70s, and his 1000 makes it look weak. He just didnt want his times known, i hear he does some big money street racing.

My best times are 4.33, 4.34, 4.38, and everywhere in the 4.40s. First day on the new setup i ran a 4.45 an my third pass, the track was still slick and then it rained so the race was cancelled. Gas 350 with no override, no wheelie bar, and inframes.

Yea, you should 60 ft better than that. We went out friday night, didnt get to the 6's but ran a 7.19 at 90 mph, with a 1.57 60 ft time. Should keep gettin better.

I ran one 1/4 mile pass on our most recent setup and ran a 12.27 at 95 mph with a 7.37 @ 88 mph in the 1/8. This was the one and only pass and was launching easy and letting out of the gas to shift. The next weekend I went to a different 1/8 mi track and ran a 7.28 at 89 mph speed shifting with a half throttle launch (to hook). 350 on gas, stock frame, no override, inframes, no slicks and on a +4 over with no bar. Tommorow were supposed to run the 1/8 with a new port setup, a +8 swinger and drag axle, and possibly some slicks and wheelie bar. Hope to get pretty deep in the sixes.

Aint that the truth. You dont need as much gear as u think to run the 1/4, it just takes some testing. I run a drag gas 350 and had trouble pulling a 17/39 through the 1/4, i was only pulling mid to high 90 mph, and i pulled 99 mph with 15/39. THe difference was, with the 17, i wasnt near topped out yet, and with the 15, i was topped out 20 feet passed the 1/8.

my best is a 4.33. 350 on gas with no override. Hope to get the bike back together soon with a little stronger motor anda wheelie bar and see how it does.

I have only made one 1/4 mile pass since the last time the banshee came out of the shop. The time was a 12.27 at 95 mph. gas 350, stock frame, stock tranny, inframes, +4 swingarm with no bar and no slicks. 17/39 gearing, which was a little too much for my little motor. It went 7.38 at 87 mph that pass in 5th gear.

yo fit a 17 you gotta cut a peice out of the side cover.

get pro-wedges or 4-snows.

Yea, just like a tie rod really. On our other bike I run Marvin Shaw struts just because they look better. If I made my own from scratch, i would use opposite thread heims so that you can just turn the bar to adjust. ALso, if you dont feel like making any, I would recommend these STRUTS. Ive seen these in person, they have alot of adjustment and they are top notch.

I run one straight to the swinger. I would just make one. The one that I run is a small tractor top-link, so it is adjustable. Its pretty heavy though.

He must be a better or lighter rider, because on pavement you should accelerate faster but he should eventually catch and pass you.

Has anyone seen Dave Moore Racings monorail long travel drag frame?

99.8 in the 1/4 mile, with 15/40 gearing.

I thought some of it was funny, but it was all stupid. It got kind of boring because of how dumb it was. There were some funny parts though.

Yea, gearing makes a huge difference. If you can get it to hook up, gear low enough to top 6th out right before the finish line.