camatv

need better pics.. LSR welds and fitment is perfect. and i mean perfect. any flaw at all they are not lsr. those look witht he pics you posted to maybe some other brand. what kind if att can you tell the ball joints.? you may need to measure the tube size for your bushings....

are those the phones with the big ass numbers on them?

go to the track for sure. south hutch is ok if your bored adn just want to rip around. we used to race down there from time to time but since most show up on 400ex's and yfz's with a phhiiappp and jetterd its not much/.

they dominated because of the aftermarket availability its one of the ONLY 4 wheelers that wouldshine in any department it was built to run in. mx, trails, dunes, drag racing, GNCC etc. they were and will always be known for the brutal power they produce. i dont know of ANY aftermarket cylinder for any suzuki 250cc 2 stroke or a 500 either. hell how many are around for banshee's?

too cool for radiator holes? i personally hate diamond plate its freakin ugly. flip that shit around and polish the flat cut some designs in the plate that would be neato i feel...

haha there are "formulas" that work with 2 stroke domes. and the banshee being as well known and trial'd and errore'd its easy to get a proper set up. hint hint PD shelf domes only the 22 and 21cc are really worth a crap. the 17cc has the worst shape and width i have ever seen. even the programs i have seen you can put in a totally wrong shape adn it will say its ok. so even those can be way off. if you think the top builders here DIDNT learn from trial and error your totally wrong.

hazed or not this is very true. not to many real thinkiers around anymore. mostly parts changers.. for simple example. maybe the stator that got changed the trigger gap was closer to what it needed and that fixed the top end misfire. ?? i have seen a LOT of wacko crazy shit happen with these bikes as well as a lot of others some were simple fixes some really made you tear your hair out. but in the end i figured out every one of them.

as far as broad power the one and only time my 535 was on a dyno at 7500rpm it made 100hp. i'm not going to say what it made at 11,000 where it started to drop ( with shear pipes, the racers edge k+t pipes on it now have more overrev. ) it is very broad hp.. the 485 i have and the 535 actually "feel" slow because there is no huge pipe hit they just pull and pull and pull and pull if you shift to fast they pull right through it. they can handle way more weight, way more tire, and a lot more gearing. IF they are built right. there is a TON of power in the proper exhaust port shape that is in harmony with the pv blade. AND a correct domes shape do it wrong and they dont work. i have seen a lot of way overported trinity cylinders and others come by that the pv will just not work quite right in. and those particular cylinders would probably run better with a pv block off. unless they were dyno'd with differnt spring and bleed off setups in the valves to make them open at the right times. BUT just like whats stated up there. 3 different builders 3 different numbers. i personally watched an old t-rex 535 make 80 ft lbs of tq a long time ago. thats a tractor. gear that bitch up (he ran 17/40) and let it go well think about this.... tanner took his "drag" 400cc pv cheeta and put it in his "dunner" now. its on gas now ( with a simple needle change) backed the timing down. and it pulls hard as hell on the bottom and rips on top still. the combo of parts and the proper porting make the motor still useable. i will say its a very high exhaust port.. higher than any 400 CUB could run on a full weight bike. i'm not sure of to many fixed port cyliders that can do that. i dont really know what other "builders" do with their pv motors i only know what i have found works with mine. ALL modern 2 stroke motors run pv's if they were obsolete they wouldnt have them on multi million dollar companies looking for 4 stroke power band with 2 stroke weight and overrev.

SWEET now thats a pit cruiser.. http://www.frequency.com/video/halls-custom-conversions-with-cummins/98142813

where was that diesel for sale at?

that is fucking bad ass. i dont care what you say!! as to the original question. banshee's cannot make tq bullshit! REAL tq porting, tq domes ( not 17cc shelf dome phh) good tune, they will make 50-55ft lbs of tq thats more than that retarded yfz. PLUS they will be more reliable, and still have lots of top end. cc increases help also. most issues I have personally seen were from imporper porting. to me tq or trail porting takes LONGER to do than a "drag" port. the work in the transfer area takes for ever fmf pipes will make as much if not more tq than retarded pt mids will. ( with porting) BUT in my opinion the best tq pipe is the t-6

they will require cheeta head and cr250 reeds and cheeta intakes to run stock oem stuff WILL NOT FIT! they look as cast and thats a really good thing. if someone who knows how to actually port a PV motor gets them they can run very hard and have an extremely broad powerband. 68mm pistons for short rod stock stroke cranks work in these. or i believe you can run a long rod ss and use the 68mm blaster pistons or the 68mm cub pistons. i cannot rember for sure.. i cannot think of ANY builders "clean up port" that is an actual port. hence the name "clean up" as in clean casting flaws.

what all else are yo wanting? override? lockup etc? do you need carbs pipes elctronics etc? i have a 4 mill i can put back together.

ha ha naw that makes it worse! they tend to loosen up after its ran a bit but then have a tendency to stick at inopportune times. dosent happen often but plated slides move o so easy

16 paddle extreme's straight, 9" wheel, buffed to wheel have made 5 passes with them they are new 600 + shipping.

to me the pj's are a decent carb. they don't seem to have the low end response as the pwk's have. but either work just fine. ( with new needle and seats and very particular float settings) how can you not like lectron.? they jet so easy dont have as bad of weather issues and are really simple. biggest problem i have with them is the slides they REALLY need chrome plated or even nicko slides in them they are really prone to stick

i'm taking it by car you mean carbon buildup. on gas thats normal. to make is simple the underside of the piston is cooler than the piston top your jetting dictates how much carbon builds up, the ports dictate how the shape of the carbon build will look like. mix oil can also contribute a LOT to carbon build up. 927 is some nasty stuff. some of the synthetic is a lil better best carbon build ( or lack of it)i have seen is from another oil. that "heart" shape is actually pretty dang good. you can see the ports fuel movements across the top of the piston. that can tell you a lot really.. most alky motors wont have any build at all. sometimes if they have some time on them just a light brown color on the piston top

it takes an hour to assemble carbs.. maybe 2 if your slow and drink mt dew's the whole reason these work with the altitude issue is the same reason they load up on jumps and through whoops.. dealt with these similar issues on kehiens way back in the MX days. the fix was to add better venting to allow the fuel that enter'd the vent tube to drain off. its very apparent whats happening if you look at a kehien air stryker type carb. the air stryker has this design "update" cast into them the extra vents are incorporated in the carb design. with the APT float bowl being pressurized but having NO overflow and no venting its going to cause problems. its a shame and i really hope they can get it figured out. have hope worst thing is the design will never be able to have an external drain on the bowl. no baffle or one way valve is going to fix that. which sucks. hydrolock is going to be a huge problem i think. ( im not saying for sure just my humble no cash no million dollar company backing me up real world observations, and we all know how accurate those are phhhh)

i personally like the toomey over the OEM needle anyday. with stock carbs play with the jetting just a tad and that "BOG" can be easily jetted out.. i ran 27.5/ 410 and toomey needle in my old 421 "trail" motor

nope the slots in the swing~arm only go so far.

athena cyl + trail riding = 200d exhuast as cast what a pile of a motor. no dream~il~in in the world is going to fix that. and unless they are striping the nicko and welding the ports up OR cutting the bottom of the cylinder down and redoing that pile head that comes with the cyl, no way your going to get down to a more "trail " friendly port number like 190-194 d good luck on a side note what was RDZ going to do to them for 600 bucks?? i mean really the triple is already there?

280-350 will get you there. the 330 is i bet where you end up with the toomey needle. try 27.5 and 30 pilots also. easy to tell if they are right with the air screw. with it all the way down like that would be a great time to look at transmission modifications also!

there are some interesting pictures of a 4 mill from Michigan vs the death ride i think page 6 towards the top?

?? parts are parts. an ebay serval is the same you would get anywhere else. buy from a sponsor and you will surely get a better overall package and most likely good service also. cheetah was first. it is a much better overall design than the cub. ( better head stud spacing, bigger intake, posibility of using powervalves) the the cheetah cub came out its similar internally as the cheetah for the most part but uses all the OEM style parts so the cost seems less ( since you are just pricing a cylinder and not a complete top end) they use the flawed oem head stud spacing, and the smaller OEM size, higher velocity intakes the cheetah serval is the same as the cub cylinder wise it just has very low port timings letting the end user more pick what they want. properly ported they are a lot of fun ( but so are properly ported stock cylinders)

at least its not raining!