camatv

that pinker is a single arm frame its going to ride like a brick.. i think this dude is looking for more of a "rider" type chassis.. lots of good examples in here tho!

looks like a great start. here is what i would do... IF your going to keep it.. take it all the way apart. shave the unneeded tabs off the frame. powdercoat or paint the frame. do the same with the a-arms, swingarm and whatever else you want to do. check EVERYTHING all bushings all bearings all ball joints etc... IF the front shocks are leaking get them resealed ( about 80-100 bucks from works) replace ANYTHING that is loose or funky feeling. tear the entire motor all the way down. check the crank for looseness and the bearings for wear if its ok get it trued and welded. inspect EVERYTHING if anything is worn out or the intakes are cracked etc replace it. if your going to be at 66mm make sure whoever is boring the cylinders is very very picky on piston to wall clearance. not going to be much fudge room there at all. if the motor doesnt have a billet basket GET one if the clutch is worn REPLACE it. reseal with OEM crank seals replace whatever other seals need it. the reassemble the entire motor and pressure test it. get a UMI carb synch tool. those carbs will probably need about 27.5 slows and i would say 280-320 mains. if it has toomey needles then set them 4th clip down from the top synch them and work that untill it is perfect. idle synch and just off idle ( cable synch) get either clamp on k+n's OR modify and then reseal the entire airbox. for a goof off rider bike rad valves, procircuits and a decent clean up port with 21cc to 19cc domes in a NOSS head will be a fun fun banshee. if you take a little bit of time and make it NICE now you will be much happier with the bike overall. and +2 a-arms works shocks on front +4 axle is a pretty run of the mill modded banshee. it makes for a great setup to ride. IF you did all that it would be worth about 3500 to 3000 atv's just do not bring big $$$$ anymore. if you just plan to sell it slap the top end back on and send it down the road. OR part it out there is more than 1000 bucks in parts there for sure. i would have paid a g for it no problem.

my choices chariot. trinity. ( yea they are very nice) UPP. i stay away from any one piece/2 section internal boost bottle leaking ass bullshit intake...

adding length dosen't increase stroke... the added stroke add's CC thats where the power increase comes from. and then only if the cylinders are really setup for it.

thats great that your bike is 100%. that means that only minor issues with it then. like the dent in the pipe. not many people know this or seem to care dents in pipes really mess with the way they work. not saying that yours are particularly bad.... and i am sometimes really busy.. so i dont get back to everyone every single time. hell sometimes the dang messenger seems to "loose" messages for me.. i just personally treat my bikes and the bikes i build like ferrari's if i wouldnt do it on something like that i wont do it on these either. its just SOOOOOOOO many tims i get the " my friends dyno tuned pro shop big buck built 4 stroke just smoked my banshee what the hell man" and SOOOOOOOOOOO many times its a result of not doing a lot of things just right. not trying to pick on you in particular just what i have seen time after time after time after time.... just the result of almost 20 years now of working on these things... well dang just went through my entire messenger didn't see anything from you? maybe i didn't get it or something else happend belive me if you were local i'd say haul it over and lets put the best tune possible on it.

yup. junk wont win in a race... is it just me or does that left pipe have a big ass dent in the back of it??? hmm

ANY "ported half ass motor is going to gain at LEAST 5 hp from going to most any drag pipe over most any "trail pipe" hell i have seen 10hp over fmf to shear just because of the added RPM the shear will support.. its a pipe action thing. most trail pipes run in a lower rpm range. they are made that way to make them more fun in trail riding.. drag pipes are just that drag pipes high rev pipes. most start at about 7500rpm and support up to and over 11,000 rpm's...... then there is the welp its ported for trails. bla bla bla i rember matt posting up a lil 350 that he did with lower than most exhaust numbers ( 191 duration not sure if thats what it really was or what) but that lil motor made a lot of power overall. nice gradual curve on the dyno graph he posted. hell most "trail" ports i have seen were pathetic clean ups and resulted in a 192 to 195 duration exhaust.. so hmm the hjr port should be fine yes the gearing blows.. i really dont understand why anyone runs a 13 tooth on the front. and even worse i have seen some 13/45 bikes and 14/45 bikes out there "shitty V paddles " welp you said it right there. now after you get some real tires the bike is going to want to wheelie like a mad man and then you will have to chop the throttle a lot unless the sand is very very dry. so then there goes the 4 strokes... and at least around here they 4 choke crowd races all of about 200ft. bla other thing i see ALL the time is horrible setup everywhere else. bad ignition, crappy fuel, ( what you mean its bad its been in an open container in the sun for 9 months?) crappy built chassis work, bad flywheel, bad overall tune up on the entire bike.. i'm not saying this is your particula situation but i see things like this a LOT.

check my "wifes build " thread. thats a nice cleaned up all stocker frame in my opinion.. also if you want check out cascade's webbsite they have an indepth "frame mod" section full of nice pictures. very clean if you do it right. and yea the super nice powdercoated frames with all tabs on look rushed to me.. but i personally llike custom work so.. finch's looks nice... should handle a lot of stress too. that upper shock mount would really stiffen it up

just put the hose back on it ..

they are modded ( maybe..) h-2 pistons.. they are a larger bore and when using a wiseco "premium quality" they are going to run a little more. hell most 68mm smaller wiseco's are in the 195-220 range depending on where you get them 140 ish is what the 71-73mm run in cheeta. plus they last a shit ton longer than the piston eating cub setups. ( at least what I HAVE seen) the valve's in the larger bores ARE larger spread. the ones in my 73mm are set up for 73mm width. the 68mm bore has a 68mm bore width type valve.. just trying to clear up some stuff here. these cylinders already have a bad rap and lots of "misinformatino floating around. the rotax valve body is really close to fitting. i would prefer them for the spring adjusting.. actually perfect would be cable driven using TPS and load off of motor.. instead of exhuast pressure BUT they still work really good. the 400 bore PV cheeta can use a stock stroke crank and in my OPINION make all the power you would ever need in a trail bike ( so crank cost is lower also) hell i ahve done a few with stock rebuilt OEM cranks.... if the $$$ isnt as much of a problem you can and would probably be very happy with a 400 pv cheetah.

i would hope so.. and sometimes the ole stanky just appears........

i rember all that braggin..

on my old t-6 trail bike? it had a 4 over i could wheelie every gear except 6th. and at that time on 14-38 gearing i didnt want to do any wheelies not that its really hard on any banshee. the best slow wheelies i ever did was on a stock banshee. 1st gear creepers

after you screw with "peaky" high strung limited powerbands you might realize that a broader power is much more fun and faster to ride. the more predictable the bike is ( in smaller cc set up) the faster it will be. i realizes this a long long time ago and started down the path of rideable HP. its kinda funky to get it right. but a lot of cylinder work on stockers and its doable. run alky also screw race fuel unless you are in some class that specs it only. drag bikes run alky just easy as that. now that said there are a few out there that refuse to go down the alky road and dont mind spending 18 bucks a gallon on some way exotic nearly alky blend of fuel and nitro and other substances but hey. good ole pure alky is easy to run easy on the pocketbook and makes a lot of hp. i ran a "drag" port 350 on a fmf'd bike with alky 38mm lectrons and a 6 over arm at the dunes here. trail rode , drag raced, dunned, and had a lot of fun on it ( untill the so called duneable let go)

t-6 stock bike reeds and timing.. = wheelies all damn day i actually rebuilt a stockish motor that had cpi's on it all it had were v force reeds and a matched exhaust port ( about 1mm higher) it actually suprised me on how it ran. BUT i hate cpis because of how they look and fit plus plug access is horrible. i had pt mids on a paul turner built bike i bought. took them off installed pro's and it picked up 6 lengths on the drag strip and i felt had more bottom end.

aftermarket flywheels blow

14 over works well

sweet!! now i am excited.. the more i can load my motors they better they do. i bet with a lil more setup work you can still run the tire. just need to find the right happy medium between wheelie and control. you know that nice 2ft off the ground front end.

a trex takes a lot of work off the shelf to run well. k+t and TDR have experience with them. after buying one for my own research in 400cc as cast fashion i can see why they are so retarded slow out of the box. the cylinder to me is a very stong casting the head design is very very strong. the lack of pistons ( kinda) and the fact that it is a steel sleeve jugg kinda turns me off to them. but i can really see some big potential in them. alluminum sleeve it set it up to run h-2 pistons..

i laughed my ass off at that pic.... its not just a serval its a Super Duper serval! UGGGGGHHHHHH WHAT THESE BEECHES WAN FROM A ..........

if your running 500ft its overheating and causing the deto. get a EGT and USE it. i bet you don't have enough fuel flow to control the last 200 ft of accumulated pipe/ engine temp.. i have seen this a LOT around here. 421's especially. run 250-300ft and they are fine run 400ft and they are about to let go run 500ft+ and its bye bye motor. takes a lot of fuel OR proper atomization and delivery to run that far and make the motor live. rember your pipe temps are always climbing on a full throttle run

all this and the best i seen this bike run at the track at least was with a set of 14 paddle stag extreme's. i do believe there are a few vids from eldorado of it running. and this is with NO bar. ( nice) i personally thought and said the first time i watched it run that it was blowing the tires off and when they finally hooked it overly stressed the motor. caused a shock and made it bog. OR caused it to wheelie all nutty up in the air to me it was all from not enough tire after runing the 12's ( ?) it got a lil better then with the 14's it was way better. instead of spinning or relying on the clutch to slip like a mad man and the lockup to grab it hard to stop it the tires just hooked and the bike was more consistent. it didn't bog from to much tire spin or too much clutch spin. the bike is being launched at different rpms at times and also with different shift points. ( what i have seen at least). so to me personally i am not sure how just tuning the clutch is going to make the biggest differences until a baseline can be established and then cause and effect can be measured from there. ( but thats my opinon so bla!) overall its a great combo on a bad ass bike that works very well it just has its very very minor querks. and kyle can ride most of them out no problem.. the conditions on the dunes constantly change and unless you know exactly the launch condition you are in hard to know the right setup for each pass. the sand gets wet, dry, mixture you cut ruts that causes different traction issues, there are launch ruts bumps dips etc.

atf FUCKING SUCKS simple as that. it creeps, it breaks down and you loose your lubrication. bearings suffer, internals suffer, clutch wears the f out fast.. 220 degrees and it turns to water. if you cannot afford a 5.99 each qt of castrol 4t 10-40 MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC oil you got problems. the castrol should last about 4 RIDES and i mean full on dune trips runing 3 days +. i change it when i can see a small amount of discoloration OR the bike screws up on a few shifts.

wonder what all he is doing for 150 bucks and same day service? i think i could pull of a same day service if it was really needed. i have rode a lot of so called "pro mod" trans and most of them i don't think perform like i think they should. but that is my opinion and the reason i set out on a year long process to develop the one i offer.

synch is off.