camatv

they are in nickerson kansas. 50 miles from wichita. i'll do 425 shipped. main reason why is the local ups hub is about 45 minutes from me.. not sure what post office would ship them for.. i cannot post pictures on this site i have a 14 meg camera and when i size them down enough they are very very very small i can email pics.

if the PM isnt I"LL BUY IT ????

kick ass@@ oh i'll have to ask my buddy if it will fit?? the guy at ace hardware didnt know what i meant by banshee gasket screwin thingy? he's such a ding dong!

will you part out i need one screw out of the bowls. and the spring for the choke tube..

OLDEST bump EVER!!

air leaks from bad assembly,, bad gas oil mix?/ redneck dirtroad fullthrottle runs to prove to drunk friends how "fast" it is.. wish i could get one for "free"

the vortex/fmf one is adjustable on the fly the DYNA is not sapposed to be switched with it running..

banshee inframe cpi's small bore drag pipe, chrome pipes, chrome stinger tubes alluminum new style silencers.. they are a lil dirty but no dents or nastyness on them great shape.. 375 + shipp and i am betting shipping would be 50 bucks at least. if you want you can come to the house and pick them up they are also for sale locally.

i dont think i have ever used the search ?

i hope voltric will be adding a race cut" rear fender to go with t he front. the more i look at it the more its starting to grow on me.. hope trinity comes through! welcome both to the site!

are you mixing oil with the fuel Is it running lean are you reusing gaskets, seals.. ?? cases have a problem? leak test? bad parts ( doubtfull)

whats bad is i dont think either exhaust would run much differnt?? they both suck bawls. do you have an ebay account or even know ebay type in DG and put some on a watch list when they DO sell its for VERY cheap/.

more compression means needs more fuel or more detonation resistance..

oh thats too much work go get alky mix it 32-1 with KLOTZ or CASTROL 927 ONLY gap your plugs at .18 dril the dump tube to . 125 drill a set of mains to .120 drop needle all the way down install 50 slow jets install a pingle fuel valve drill out and remove all the guts out of yoru stock cap OR buy a billet cap and make sure it has no valve in it. NO fuel filters put all that in set carbs accordingly synch wise and turn PJ at about 2 turn out pray it all works.. if you cannot figure that out sell the bike

i REALLLY HOPE that they have seen all the bad feedback and are trying to improve the customer service. it would help their sales tremediously. being a site sponsor i'd give them another chance..

simple if its alluminum polish it if its steel [aint/ powder it red. it will look killer. red/black/chrome,polished is one excellent color choice. the basics all work excellent with clean and poli\shed parts.. BUT red, black, blue seem to look the best..

just cut it off and buy new. they are pretty cheap. you probably spent more in running the air tools and all the pb blaster, rust eater adnd time to try to save a 3 dollar bolt..

take the bar off sit ont he tank ride the fugger

neat idear!!!

i PERSONALLY feel the biggest thing with the rickystator stators is they arent designed to rev past say 7000rpm's thats the top end miss you get they cannot make the a/cpower that the cdi needs to keep the coil running like it should ( i FEEL this is whats going on) after talking to sherider about hsi rewinding experiences and the lack of much wire in the RS stators and use of cheapo chinese shitwire ( i'm guessing) thats causing a drop in the available output of the cdi to the coil.. the gap will cause a miss at idle and at top end but usually its the pickup distance.. thats VERY important.. the pickup simply "pulses" to the cdi.. without enough power electrics go crazy very quickly.. i had a moose stator a long time ago never had a problem with it. didnt realy need the other lighting coil and honestly it was anoying trying to get 4 lights to all work with another regulator and bunch of extra wiring shit.

freexing shrinks metal heating expands metal. i have used a die grinder to cut out bearings before the front piviot tube ones you pretty much cannot remove with out damaging them. the carrier bearings SOMETIMES you can get them out ok but most time you just have to cut them.

it will be fine.. a friend of mine made me a bad ass installer for the seals and the bearing it fits in t eh cover the seal pops in the holder and you just ease it in there by hand everything lines up so nicely its installed by hand.

out frames all fit about the same unported cub i'd also consider snipers..

deff looks like maier maybe from the late 80's early 90's? send maier a pic. as for the old guy in the back of the building bet he knows

where do you "hear" all this bad advice from?? alky burns VERY clean. all the oil thats used in the 2 stroke version purging isnt as necessary as in straight alky with top lube. some fuel manu's even have additive's to the alky that makes it very very stable.. all in all its a much better choice in fuel. the price is not dictated by oil barrel prices. its made from stuff other than oil so its a "green" fuel. properly tuned you WILL use more of it but the cost differnce is substantial. last barrel of the good stuff cost me about 150 bucks for 55 gallons. race fuel aroudn here is 495 bucks for a drum/. i have a golf cart i'm going to convert as well as a MG midget i hope to someday convert to run alky going to use kz1000 drag bike lectrons on it!! its a 1000cc 4 stroke..