Hockey390

Forgot to mention that I also tried to get spark by just placing a screwdriver between the 2 prongs that are on the male connecter for that throttle peice I showed you. (There are 2 parts, the one running from ignition to a male connector, and the female connector running to the thumb throttle...I placed the screwdriver between the 2 prongs on the male side, which i thought would have been the same as twisting the wires together... But I got no spark.)

So say this is the condition. I have the TORS unplugged at the point where the carbs are, and then the switch from the thumb throttle is plugged in, but removed from the thumb throttle and just left alone.. Should everything be go? Or should I plug the TORS in? I dont see how TORS would hurt me any, so I'm riging them so I can plug them back in. If this doesnt make any difference on either of my problems please let me know. So then why wouldnt I be able to turn it off? Is the air leak the only option? Or could it be related to the TORS..

I recently added FMF pipes, a set of used carbs (mine had stripped threads) and a twist throttle to my 87 shee. I got all of the moding done, went to start...nothing, figured out it had no spark, so then I thought back to when I hooked up my twist throttle. So finally I remembered a wire I unhooked that had no place to connect after I put on the twist. I check for spark with that wire hooked up to my old thumb throttle, and i got spark. So I figured i would just take that wire and plug it in, remove the peice off the thumb throttle, tape it up, and secure it in the frame. I did this and started her up. Had to use thrust quick start fluid but i got her running. Now the problem.. When she started up it reved REALLY high almost like i had it wide open, which i didnt, and then it would stall out. So i gave it gas and tried adjusting the idle screws which made no difference. I checked to make sure the carbs werent stuck open, which they werent.. Finally after a while of it being really high revved and having to give it some throttle to keep it going it stayed running on its own. So i started adjusting the idle screws some more and nothing changed it. NOW the odd part. My family came out and told me to shut it off because it was so loud, so I hit the kill switch.. and yes, it stays running... Confused, i turn the key to off.. Stays running... Took the key out, stays running.. Then i shut the gas off and it eventually died out.. The antifreeze was boiling and smoke was coming from the engine and where the pipes connect to the engine. I feel that it has something to do with that item i disconnected from the throttle, but I dont see how that would effect how it stayed running!?!?! My final thoughts on this are that it has something to do with the TORS. the carbs I bought had tape over the TORS plugs, so i left them unplugged. I had the TORS plugged in on my old carbs, so thats why i think that might be the problem. The plugs on the new carbs are different from my old ones so I have to do some wiring, but first I have to go to my other house to get my owners manual so I can work on this through the night. If you have any idea what is wrong, please reply... If you have thoughts as to what I should try... Please reply. Here is a picture of the unit I unplugged from my thumb throttle. I have no idea what it is... All that I know is that I need it to get spark.

Ok, I found my problem.. But now I have a rather large one =( I am going to post it in a new topic so that more people view it and also because I got it started. I need some major help here. Please go view it, topic will be called "Shee help ASAP"

They could possibly have guidelines to follow as to how much power they can have, noise intensity, how easily you can be burned....But you would think that overall, yamaha would want people to buy their quads. This is obvious, but think about how many more sales they might have if a STOCK banshee comes with a set of nicer pipes, or an aftermarket bumper, just little things. True they may have contracts with aftermarket parts makers so that they can make their money to, but that contract could easily be outdone by an increase in sales. If i had to pick between (since i only like banshee's pretend 2 companies make them, i dont want to use a 400ex as an example.) a Honda Banshee, and a Yamaha Banshee, the difference being $250 more expensive on the Yamaha part, but it came with a GOOD set of pipes. I would more then likely spend the 250 extra and get that quad. Some may not see my point exactly, but its in there somewhere... Pyro_Zach, in that case, we better look out...the 2005 warrior might be taking the lead on the dunes!

bump..

I cant work on it until tomarrow, so in the meantime I'm going to try and narrow it down with your help =) As for the carbs, I cleaned them out with carb cleaner and an air compressor. They are as clean as a whistle and nothing is blocking them. I did one at a time so the float bowls in now way could have been switched, unless of course they were switched before I got them. How can I tell if they are switched?? The carbs are put together right and the grove is in the right spot because they can freely go all the way up and back down by using the throttle. The TORS are unplugged. Compression was fine before I added the things I did this weekend, so it isnt that. As for spark, I will check that first. I have brand new plugs in (only ran it for about 10 minutes on them, then I took her apart to add new carbs and pipes) One thing I wonder about is when I replaced the clutch housing with one that had a parking brake on it. And I think I unplugged some kind of electrical, but would anything on that even cause it to not start? Lastly was the twist throttle. I replaced the thumb throttle was a twist throttle and there was something I unplugged from the thumb throttle that couldnt plug into the twist, so I just left it unplugged... Would that effect it either? Write your oppinions and tips please.

I have an 87 and had only a K&N and removed snorkle. Last weekend I put on a used set of carbs (mine had stripped threads), put on FMF Fatties, twist throttle, and jetted it in to 280 hoping that would be a nice start. Before I did moding it started 2nd kick while cold. Now I went to start her up and nothing... I tried quick start fluid, nothing.. Not even an attempt to start.. Any ideas of what I should check..? I just replaced the spark plugs also. And havent checked for spark yet, but I was getting spark before I did the moding because I ran it right before I took it apart. Please post ANY ideas or suggestions. Is there any possibility that the carbs I bought are dead? They have tors taped over, and I was using TORS before, could that be it? Just trying to get some thoughts goin. Thanks

good point wallrat... I'm suprised that didnt cross my mind with all the thoughts going on in my head... as for still wanting better pipes if they came stock with good pipes, that could be true to, but isnt ANY aftermarket pipe a crapload better then stock?

2 of my friends and my dad both asked me the same question when i told them i got new exhaust pipes. why dont they come stock on a banshee... They take less material and add power... So why in the hell doesnt yamaha make a better stock pipe??? Just curious if there is a reason or if they are just dumb

Im at sea level, and as of right now...its cold as hell.... about 1 or 2 degrees out. But I wont be riding it much this winter...more of a fixing up period

I have an 87 shee, had stock pipes on it.. I'm puting on new carbs (stock jets) with twist throttle and FMF fatties (old style) with matching silencers. I was told that I need to jet this to 270 with the clip 4th from blunt end. I cant get ahold of the guy to ask him if 280's will work. Oh, i also have a K&N filter on there with regular airbox with removed snorkle if that matters. But the carbs I bought came with the dual K&N's...Which is better (i do trail and dune) the single K&N or duals??? Please answer ASAP!! Thanks

tight, make me one =)

I dont have shock covers to protect my shocks, because i know if something is going to hit them and break them, a little peice of vinyl wont stop crap... I have them on my shee because they look nicer then a dirty spring, and i dont have the color shocks i want.. Its alot cheaper to buy $20 shock covers then it is to spend a few hundred on shocks just for color. I like the flame on mine as well... But thats just my oppinion

my friend has a blaster that has yellow spring coils... we thought about how to get them apart and all that good stuff and painting and finally i was just like... why dont you just get shock covers.. =) Sometimes the best way is too simple to realize

One of mine broke and i never replaced it, so i just have one.. It has white case and is in good condition.. PM me if interested.. It's just collecting dust.

You may laugh, but how do i check my compression.

I just saw a picture of a quad for sale on ebay that had a clear clutch cover. Does anyone know where to get one?

oh, i thought he was saying thats how much it will cost me..not that he will do it for that much. =)

ok, so back to the main question....does anyone know of some CHEAP places that i can have it done at?

I needed a bumper because my last one got wrecked to crap when i hit a tree and i figured if i did that again with no bumper i would be replacing something a little more expensive... So i got one of those mudscreen bumpers that was in pretty bad condition. It is straight but the paint is crap and i figured I would get it painted chrome. I was wondering if anyone knows of a place that does it really cheap. I know you cant powder coat chrome, but you actually have to dip the part in chrome (is this right?) So if anyone knows of a place that will do it for a good price. List it here...Once I find the best price I will get the info from you. Thanks!

Good luck man, thanks for all the help you've been to me. You will be missed.

straight to the point. I like.. =)

All i want to know is if it will add power. If it just changes the power so it hits slower (mellower) then i say no, but if it make it hit HARDER, or stay longer...Thats what im looking for. So i wouldnt want them?

Just wanting to know if reed spacers are worth it.. I dont have any engine work done on my quad if that makes a difference. Just modified airbox, fatties, and a K&N.. If they do make a difference, what is a good price for a new set? (25?)