Hockey390
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Everything posted by Hockey390
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Wow....Thats it? I woulda paid $3,000 for that one easy.
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Its up for sale on ebay.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2467283929
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you are very obserbant. (cant spell but thats ok ) Last summer I replaced my front sprocket, and my EX-friend tightened down the bolt that was holding it on... Ya, as you can guess... I'm driving down a gravel road trying to see how fast my shee goes, and then I hear this TINK noise and my rear tires lock up, thank god it was gravel and not pavement.. My tires would by TOAST! I luckily found my sprocket about 50 yards back in the gravel, got my chain out from where it locked up, and drove my trailer back to my shee and got it on, took it to the local shop, fixed her up.. And of course, the washer was never found... Nor replaced. That nut is on there with a 500 ft/lb air impact wrench, you think it will come off?? As for the chain slider, I thought it was supposed to be like that so you could put it on... Never thought about it. But thanks for tellin me, I should just post a bunch of close-ups of my shee and have everyone find problems Thanks. DP
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The o-ring is still there, I took the white cap off.. But I'm wondering if it just needs a new one since I took it off?? Because I took the white thing off before I put the case saver on, just because I had no idea what it was and thought it needed to be removed. Anyone know the OEM part number so I can go buy one for $1,000,000 at the stealership?
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here is a picture of them installed on the carbs when I got them..
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You know the little white cap type thing behind the case saver, where those 3 bolts go in, I think its coming from there... Is that the shifter seal? If yes, do I just get a new o-ring? or buy a whole new cap..?
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Make an offer, I bought it and painted it black.. If you want it to look better it needs to be sandblasted because whoever painted it before I got it did it really bad Make an offer, I will sell for probably anything.. I paid $20 for it plus shipping, never installed, I want to get one of those 3 bar ones Guy I bought it from said it may be slightly bent, but its hard to tell... here is another picture of the paint. From this angle it looks bent, if you are handy you can probably throw it into a vice and straighten it right up.
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Installed my case saver, and cleaned up a little bit of crap that was originally sitting where the oil is now. I think the "crap" was holding the oil from leaking out any further.. :-\ What's causing this?
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Is it just me, or does the whole thing look kinda lop-sided? Frame bent?? The radiator plastic is cracked, but I doubt that would cause if you look at the straight on pic, the left sits a little higher then the right, and the gas tank plastic doesnt look very true... I feel bad for whoever bought it outside of auction formore then 2300..
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Is it just me, or does the whole thing look kinda lop-sided? Frame bent?? The radiator plastic is cracked, but I doubt that would cause if you look at the straight on pic, the left sits a little higher then the right, and the gas tank plastic doesnt look very true... I feel bad for whoever bought it outside of auction formore then 2300..
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I'm probably going with air, just because they seem cheaper (as far as I've seen) and I have a 14 HP air compressor Cordless seems like it would be extremely nice to have, but I dont think I want to spend that kind of money. Here is a link to the one on ebay.
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Hey, as you should already know, I am going to buy an air impact wrench and I'm not sure what to get. I have started shopping around, and as usual I start out cheap (ebay) and then drove to Sears to check it out. I just wanted to know what the difference is in a higher RPM compared to a lower RPM model, and also how many ft/lbs of torque do I need? I probably wont use it on anything other then my shee, and maybe some random jobs like lawnmower repairs and whatnot. I found a model on ebay that is really cheap, but only gives 250 ft./lbs of torque. Hell I know thats still a very good amount, but I dont want to spend the money on something and then have it not work for me when I REALLY need it to be strong. I'm just open for suggestions. The one I looked at @ sears was like $125 and I think offered 400 ft./lbs and maybe 500 max. and then on ebay there is a 250 ft/lbs model that comes with the sockets Sockets are expensive as crap too, so would you suggest I get the one on ebay for $50, or spend $150 and get the one at sears...?
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It would really help if I had brake fluid in so I could just lock them up... But since I dont, I tried lodging a 1/2" thick craftsman screwdriver in the rear sprocket and then into the swingarm.. Ya, good thing craftsman has a lifetime warranty on their tools. Needless to say, i bent that basically 1/2 diameter metal to a 45 degree angle... That didnt work, so I shall just get a friend to come out with me and I will bring some brake fluid with me, fill them up, get that all good then remove the flywheel hopefully this weekend. As far as tools go, I think I'm going to invest in one of those air impact wrenches... I've came across way to many nuts I cant get off, and that would be very helpful. Anyone know where I can get one cheap? Also thanks for quick posts, I can always count on you guys!
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k, sure would be helpful if my rear tires werent flat, and brake fluid completly empty... I will figure it out, thanks for the tips Darrin
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no emergency brake =( Plus my brake fluid is gone because it was getting old and I'm putting in new... =( Thanks for reply, keep them coming PLEASE!!!!
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I'm at the place where my banshee is right now, and have to leave in like 30 mins. I want to pull the flywheel so I can send it to be lightened. I have the flywheel puller tool, but how the hell do I use it? There is a bolt with a nut on it in the very center, and I'm assuming you have to take off the nutt to use the tool. But when put a wrench on the nut it just spins my flywheel. Tell me waht to do ASAP!! I have about 30 mins and will be sitting here waiting for a reply until the moment I get an answer.. Or for 30 mins, whichever comes sooner. Please post!
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Dual K&N's for sale, came on a set of carbs I bought. Need cleaning but are in good shape. Make an offer
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I just wanted to know what polished exhaust ports are. I read it on youngwoody.com which has a list of mods and tips and whatnot. I've never heard anything about it. What is it, what will it do, what change will i notice?
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Hey everyone, I have seen a few pictures of banshee's that have their wire's all cleaned up and put into like plastic sleeve type items. I was wondering if there is a place I can get them cheaper? I want red ones, and the only place I found red was at an autozone which was made by street wires, and seeing how its for car stuff, they are like $15 for a few feet.. If you dont know what I'm talking about, here is a picture of it. Its those yellow lines that are holding cables. Sorry to whoever's banshee this is, I didnt remember who it was so I cant mention your name, but your customized color scheme is my dream, so thanks.
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Called in and had someone check out my plastics. They all seem to be fine, today is monday, I did it saturday morning.. So I think that if it was going to cause any problems it would have started to do it by now. I think the plastics are a type of polypropalene (spelling?) which is alot tougher then the plastics I feel they are warning you about.. So, if you want to try it out on your own, go ahead. I dont think it will hurt anything, and if it does end up hurting my plastics, I will inform you all immediatly. DP
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As for being safe... I will get back to you in a few days I dont think its THAT strong because its not like its made to eat metal or whatever, I use it on my boat fiberglass to get rid of scuffs, and have used it on a pool cue to get a sticker off and those both didnt get effected. But seeing how I already put it on my plastic, I will be the test dummy. I did it friday night and saturday morning so I will get you an update like wednesday or so. You can buy it pretty much anywhere as far as I'm concerned. I bought mine at a hardware store. Here is what it says on the bottle..... (it is in a tin can with a squirt style top) Goof Off The ultimate remover! Gum, candle wax, grease, pen, oil, scuff marks, lipstick, marker, crayon, dried latex paint, "drips and splatters", glue, adhesives, sticker residue Now i found a scary part... CAUTION - always pretest on inconspicuous area first. May damage plastics, vinyls, fiberglass, and oxidized metals. For use on - Nylon, polyprolyne and wool carpets, fully cured varnished and oil-base painted surfaces, laminated counter tops, metal, glass, brick, wood, concrete, grout, most fabrics, most carpets SO....Now that I've read not to use it on what I've used it on.. I am a little curious. What I am thinking is that they have had incidents where it hurts a material, and must put it on the label for legal reasons.. I say this because I use it on my boat's fiberglass, and hopefully it didnt hurt my shee I suggest you dont use it until I give you the thumbs up.. =)
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Hey everyone, I know I've seen posts on here asking what to use for cleaning your plastics, so dont get mad at me for making another... I just wanted to let you know that I have an 87, and it has its original plastics on it, which are white with red gas tank and radiator cover.. As you can guess, its got some discoloration to it from its old age, and also some sun damage from being outside uncovered and whatnot. I will try and get a picture this weekend of the plastic because it has alot of little almost grey spots and mixed with a little yellow, they arent that bad, but sure would look better with them cleaned. Anyways, I was cleaning a few parts up and decided to try the stuff out on my plastic. If you have ever seen it, its called Goof-off, which to my SMELL, i would say is a mix of alcohol and some other cleaning solution. It really breaks down grease and other bad stuff, such as sticker residue or even simple things like dirt thats been on something a while. I used this stuff on my plastic to get a grease spot out, and it made it shine! I was suprised so i tried it on those spots i mentioned earlier, same result.. With some good pressure i was able to get out any spot i wanted.. Which really excited me. So if you have any spots on your plastic, or grease on parts, try it out. I got a grease spot out of my shock cover, and was able to remove my plasitcs discoloration. HIGHLY recommend you getting a small bottle of this stuff and giving it a whirl. SUMMARY - Try goof-off on your banshee, it cleans most things up that you wouldnt think possible.
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I Wanna Rebuild Your Kicker For Free!
Hockey390 replied to Holyman's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
I never noticed this topic was up, but I got my kicker back a while ago and I LOVE it.. THANKS ALOT! i will miss the little rattle i hear in the background as I buzz around.. HAAA! You do awesome work, and your helpin us out. Let me know if you need anything! -
definitly have the red lock-tight As for the bolts, I found an auction on ebay that sells the 10 acorn nutts, but you say I might need washers? If yes, is there anyone on here that has bought one of these acorn dealies on ebay and can tell me what size they are??

