2004LEBanshee

not sure how my kill switch wires could have touched the flywheel. But it hasnt even been rode since the new stator was put on other then a quick zip up the street.

no. there is a kill swith but that was wired two years ago. no tors been gone.

ok well my shee was having problems running the other day it would rev fine but under load it sputtered and ran like crap. Long story short I bought a new 200wt RS stator and flywheel and put it on it ran up the road great but when i shut it of and tried to start it again it wouldnt start just kinda sputtered and would back fire some times. A few times it would start if I gave it gas and kept on the gas but once I let off it died. Well after messing around with the pick up coil I kicked it and it fired right up. Noticing the lights were on I turned them off and noticed the idle picked up slightly. Wierd never noticed that. I turned the switch to the off position and there was a hesitation before finally dieing. i thought that was odd so started it again and hit the off switch and this time it did not stop. whats Up.

glad I could help out.

heres a stupid question but is the nut on backwards. IF it is it wollnt hold it tight.

I cut a inch out of the middle of my air box and sealed it. Got the bigger carb boots and the air box still bolts up to the stock holes. Oh and the water resistant is about as good as a screen. If your in water pods wollnt work.

yea there sweet looking but just couldnt justify the cost of that head.

I just picked up a 200w stator and flywheel combo (hope it works). I had a stock lighten flywheel by boon man worked great. I want to get the new wheel lightened but need to know if these ones can be lightenen as well and who does them . Not sure if boonman still does because I used search and all links seem to be a couple years old and dont really see him on here anymore. who does good work now a days.

You say +2 arms are coming but list that you have a wide suspension? Around here youd be lucky to get 3500 for that but every market is different. good luck

yeah it has a title I believe its a 96. One of my friends bought it for 1500 sold it two months later to my other friend and he blew it up twice in about 6 months. It has a kehin carb on it and the idiots were running a pod filter in the muddy trails. It was to wet to run numerous times. Neither knew how to jet I had to do it for them it ran pretty good when it was first purchased after I got the jetting figured out but then my other buddy got it and messed it all up. Front breaks are ok rears werent too good. Tires are hole shots not to bad probably 60% left and it has a bill's pipe. When it was running it was a fun quad. But now my friend is frustrated with it and bought a 400ex and it just sits in peices. Can I use my stock shee carb on this or should I keep the kehin. Not sure what size it is a pj though. I will probably build a air box too.

frame is good but crank and cylinder are probably toast. tires shocks and everything is good on it but engine. I wanna build it for my girl friend to. ride. What happened to blaster HQ. or a good blaster site. Im going to need help.

nobody has tried a bigger filter mine says do35a6 on it is that one bigger fastrthnu

i dont know doesnt seam to be too accuarate because everytime someone says they did it there shee went 90+ so yea. its not. with your mods and tires no.

that method has got more people made fun of on this board then probably the colored power band mods. good luck with that.

I believe I got mine off e-bay they look like the set rickey stator sells. Much Thicker rod then stock and come with heim joints look like honda style. I think they were 150$ they work real well so far. I've already gone through 2 of the old style sets. One bent and one set has balljoints that are toast they look real whimpy compared to theses.. These are also for +2 if you need it.

I have the K&N Clamp on kit from nossmachine. Does anyone have the filter Number. Is there a filter size that I could get that would still fit the adapter but be a inch longer?

I would bet closer to 280. at 1000ft I ran 320's about 70 degrees. needle one fatter. K&N cut lid.

yea its leaded. ok ill give it a shot. How can pods possibably flow that much more air I dont get it. THis air box is wide open. I dont get how this thing can possibly be sucking so much air that an open top cant get enough air in. I believe you guys just dont get it. Should I cut some holes in it? Should i try a different gas? or is this torco going to be ok. I used it half and half for two years on previous motor never noticed a problem.

PWK 35, Dune play port. 4mill, +5 timing, CPI in-frame, lightened flywheel, air box with no lid K&N, VF2 reeds, noss head, 20 domes, 184 compression, 32:1 torco 110 and castor 927, Rickey stator, I think thats all the motor stuff, 50 pilot, cel needle middle, I believe 162 main, I changed a few times earlier not quite sure what it is now. It spits oil out the silencer tips its gotta be rich, Bout 1000ft, and around 60-70 out

can you have a rich looking ring (color that is) but it be not 2 mm. If you do what is that lean or rich?

I'm assuming you did it with throttle pushed in and no timing advance. But no just run premium. Not enough octane causes detonation which puts a hole in your piston. leaning from not enough fuel melt your piston you'll need to check your jetting for that.

yea i know its blury. How do you get a 2 mm ring. I figured it was a little rich. plugs are exactly the same

with $hitty camera phone gotta get a digital camera and try again but here goes. http://www.axcessmypics.com/photos/photo02...b67763182bf.jpg thats with a 162 main

Thanks I just tried 7 for a few mins then put it back to 5 it runs much better there. I could only get to about 3rd due to the road i was on but when it was at 5 and I punched it in first I could probably flip over if i dont let off. at +7 it would come up a little but quickly stop pulling any harder. so it would only come up have as far. It kinda felt like it was reved out. if that makes any sense. I'm leaving it at +5

A few weeks ago i noted that my compression was 184 on both cylinders with timing +5 and I'm running 110 gas. I was told that I could probably get a few more ponys if I went to 7 or 8. Well I put it at seven and fired it up and when in neutral it reved alot faster then at 5 but once I rode it under load it wouldnt pull near as long through the power band like it did at +5. WHy is that? are my mods just not responding well to the timing change? or can the possibility of jetting be an issue. BTW I just did a run with plugs for a plug chop but wollnt get to cut them open till tomorrow. From looking down I believer I have a pretty dark ring but cant quite tell also the dripping oil off the silencers may be a hint too.