2004LEBanshee

thanks for the replies. I dont want them I run to many trails just wondering if it would work for the couple times a year I run at the strip.

I was mostly wondering so I could gain a little bit when I run at a local 1/8 mile dirt drag strip.

Oh ok. I havent got to really get into this thing yet. Just a few runs up and down the streat but not banging gears.

thanks thats intersting. Is that effect noticable with mods such as mine?

Why are cubs so hard to shift? with stock trany?

I had a similar problem one side hotter and wouldnt hit power band when I put mine together and it turned out the pick up coil was out of adjustment.

Probably some questions that will get me some smart a$$ feed back but Im giving it a shot. I got SB CPI inframes. Now there supposed to be in frame drag pipes, right? Is it possible to run them with out the silencers effectivly that is? I mean they dont look too much differnt then out frame pipes. Also if this is so can you run the silencers with out packing and be as effective HP wise I know on my FMF's it was believed to hurt power. Another question. When I had my old set up it originaly was jetted poorly and would have wet oil on the silencer tips. I was told it was too rich I jetted acordingly and fixed it and it never did it again. Is this the case with CPI's could your jetting be on and still have a wet exhaust tip. Thanks

well I guess I did kinda check the squish. I used a screwd driver and put in the hole and put the pistion to top dead center and measured it. It was longer then the length of a spark plug screwed in. so sorta. I was a little worried when I saw the piston come out of the cylinder a bit before installing the head. But I guess its supposed to .

Na I dont mind the 110 for now Ill give it a shot what timing should I advanced to Im at 5 now. Also I assembled it. No I didnt chech squish.

Yea I sent him a message today no answer. 20+2 is 20 cc domes for the added stroke. I thought this was high but plugs look good no detonation yet and no signs of hitting the piston yet.

I currently have a dune/play port from jeff. +4 crank extra weld, Noss head with 20+2 domes. Also +5 timing. I wanted to and was running mix race and pump. The engine has about a gallon and a half through it and I did a compression check and it is on a cold engine 184 on both cylinders. I assumed with a port job it wouldnt be this high. But I guess its Ok. I dont mind running straight race but Im guessing I may need to. I also think it may be a little higher once it is warmed and broken in is that correct?

id check every nut over again I forgot one once and hit it for a while till i found it still on

To be honest I would think you would be ok just sanding that out by hand. As long as there was no wear where the bearings and seals sit I dont see a problem. I assume you are talkin about the scratching where the rod bottom are at. Maybe someone else can help better but I bet your ok

na there is fuel in the tank. But you guys maybe on to something. If I just changed the main jets and all fuel was drained You think I need to work all the air out for the lines to work properly. I never had to before with stock lines and carbs but I could be air locked? I guess. I figured it would just flow like crazy till filled up. THis is wierd. The hoses are a little bigger then stock size that could be the problem I guess

no dredging for a 4 mill only 7 and up. You need a spacer plate, or custom domes and 795 series pistons.

i took the gas cap off I also had it running and noticed the fuel in the line slowly sink into the carbs and air fill up the lines. Any chance I need a duel petcock with this carbs.

Still trying to get some of the bugs out of this thing. I installed the bigger carbs and needed to get new fuel lines because the stock ones dont fit. So I went to the hardware store and purchased new hose and used the stock Petcock and T. Well When I turn on the fuel with the hoses off the fuel flows out fast (of the pet cock so no clog). But when the hoses are hooked up it bearly trickles down to the carbs and some times the fuel dosent even appear to come out the petcock at all. I can see large bubbles and some times comepletely empty lines. I dont think I need to discusse the improtance of fixing this problem. Since the stock fuel lines are not clear I cant tell if this is normal or not but I highly doubt it is. What is going on here. I even shake and move the lines around to get the fuel and air out but it doesn't seam to help much if not at all. .

http://www.topozone.com/default.asp?404;ht...m/findplace.asp

know kidding It was driving me crazy it was a relief when I first fired it up after adjusting the coil. It is in the middle runs good but like you said need to fine tune Thanks alot

well I tried a 45 and 152 main with needle in the second and I fired it up took it for a spin and the same result. I then changed the pickup coil adjustment ( i was wrong it moves) and fired it up and it sounded great. Reved clear and fast. I took it for a spin and it hit the power band really hard and scared the $hit out me. THis thing spins the tires on pavement and pulls wheelies in third better then it did in first what a difference.. I still need to get it to get on the power band quicker a little slow getting to that any suggestions. But it appears my problem is solved.

Ill try all that tomorrow I pulled the plugs and there clean and wet both sides look the same. But ill change them too. . Thanks for the help fellas

ill have to check the spark and try the lower jets. I dont remember about the pickup coil adjustment but I thought I could adjust the stock one but not the ricky I'll check that after I try new jets. How can I tell if its a good spark. Oh I also tried switching the plugs and still the left head pipe got hotter. This is driving me crazy. Is it possible to be to rich that you cant hit a powerband? when I go past quarter throttle it wollnt accelerat anymore and just holds that speed and sputters and pops alittle. All Rich charicteristics? I thought that was lean

I did a leak down test it was fine but not a compression test. I fixed the leaking carb but still runs like crap. I also put in new plugs and there pretty wet. So turning the idle screw in picks up the idle. I wondered about that Didnt check the fly wheel gap its a ricky stator cant really adjust that pick up coil. where should I try on the mains. I moved the needle leaner but it was crackling worse. So i went one richer and it was about same as before.

I switched to a 50 pilot and a 165 main and adjusted the throttle cable to get it to idle. When ideling it seams to be ok but when I rev it in nuetral beyond 1/4 throttle it sounds like its breaking up. I took it for its first spin and I cant even get to the power band. Also the left pipe still gets hotter then the right. WHen I hit the gas beyond 1/4 throttle while riding and put my hand on the exhaust the right side dosent blow to hard and there is a lot of missing between the two. The left seams to be blowing harder when under load. need some help.

I figured I may be a bit big but why is one pipe hotter then the other. The smoke looks the same and feels the same on my hand. ? Also how do you adjust the idle on these things ( the black screw with the spring)? Also how do you check the float these things came with no directions.