2004LEBanshee

oh and im running +5 timing mix 110 and premium and a modded air box no lid and K&N

Got a few problems. Just finished assembly and started it to break it in. It has 168 main 58 pilot was at 2 1/2 turns after it wouldn't idle imediatly I went to 3 1/2 then back to 2 1/2 and CEL needles middle clip. It wouldnt stay idoling and on its own and I had to keep blipping the throttle to keep it running if I got off the throttle it died. I was checking the sides of my cylinders to feel when they were warm I believe my temp guage hit 160. When i I let it die I noticed it was leaking out one of the Right carb vent hose. I also notice the left exhaust ( Fly wheel side)was hot while the Right was not as hot. Also durring this heat cycle I let it turn off a few times to try and adjust my thrttle cables few minutes at a time. Any ideas I'm kinda lost what to do right now. Could use some help first time at this whole engine building thing. oh its about 40 and 1000ft.

I tried a strap wrench but it ended up not working so I used a towel in the gears worked real good.

I live in youngstowon and I sent my cylinders to fast. I would just send to who you really want to be honest you dont see many fast no pun intended banshees around here so I doubt any are really good. As for just assembly Action cycle in alliance is old school and does good work they also carry every single bolt and part for a banshee in shop which is nice because all the dealers around require you to order stuff. One option I would suggest is Baldwin there close. They make farr's $hit so they gotta know something.

Why would you want a 13 on that would be horrible you would shift ever ten feet. I run a 15 longer gears.

no I just pushed rubber stoppers in there.

no. I pushed as hard as I could and pushed with a screw driver on exhaust ports and put electrical tape tightly around every contact point that slowed down the loss of the original tests.

Ok my gague numbers are a little screwy I actually had 11psi and after 6 min was at 10.5 and after 12 min it was at 10psi

I made my own like others have and mines a little hokey I put it to 6 and after 6 minitues it was at about 5.5psi. What do you think is that acceptable?

Thanks I have his springs I guess I just need to know if I use stock bolts for the springs because the springs are so long.

I guess I'll just talk to my self. i did search and found I get to throw those $hitty rubber things away and Im guessing I just broke a $hitty bolt. Is that correct?

Ok i have some problems. 1. The Fast springs are twice as big as old springs and my bolts are really short. I tried it any how. I used the torque wrench at 7 ft lbs like the clymer said but there was so much pressure from the springs being so compressed I broke a bolt. Also when the other bolts were cranked to the 7 the spring was so compressed I dont think it would have even worked. Whats up? 2. The old clutch had 2 rubber rings that go in the clutch do you use two? Book only mentions one that goes aggenst the hub. Also I dont quite understang the explanation of where it goes does it go on first and the first friction plate sits aggenst it or does it go on first and you push the friction plate on top of it so it is kinda wraped under the first plate between the hub? I need help

[the friction plates have pink paint on a spot on them do they matter

Trying to put in the clutch from jeff and noticed that it doesn't have tabs on the metal plates like a stocker does that means I dont have to stagger them and it doesn't matter how there put in?

cant really help but look at the price of a piston and a bore and hone gasket. maybe 200$ for that problem is labor if you cant do it your self that is usually hourly price depends on where you go.

thank you :thumbsup:

ok I get it now half of the clip on each case half.

http://216.37.204.206/alba/Yamaha_OEM/Yama...p;A=276&B=3 Are we talking about part 12 it says one?

I have one on the trany on the drive sprocket one small one on the clutch side on same trany shaft and one big one on the clutch side of the crank. So a total of three but that is only one bearing keeper for the crank. Is that correct not sure what your saying.

also there is only one for the transmission too. what the hell?

are you sure there is 2 c clips I only have one and im pretty sure I didn't lose one?

The stock crank has tabs on the barrings and the new stroker crank doesn't do I have to do anything to the new crank or does it not need them and just drop it in? also do you guys use any yamabond or anything on the out side rim of seals that touches the case? need input never done this before. oh yeah why does the new crank have seals in the middle of it do they get lubed anything? I have a clymer but doesn't cover these cranks. Thanks

and there goes another one to the banshee undertaker. :yelrotflmao:

I had that problem. I took the carbs a part soaked them and used really fine steel wool on the slides and these slides are extreamly smooth and have never stuck again.

yes its ported