bigboybanshee

If I remember correctly, you have to get a tach that is for a 2-stroke, any old tach won't cut the mustard. Reason I say this is because of how the coil fires on 2-strokes; which is different than a 4-stroke. It can be done, and hooking it up to the coil would be the way to do it, but unless you get one for 2-strokes, it won't read accurately Someone please correct me if I am wrong

There is a nut / phillips screw in the center of the pressure plate. You will want to adjust that to tighten up / loosen your clutch. You want to get the arrow on the case lined up as close as possible with the "lever" the cable is attached to, and then adjust your clutch at the perch to fine tune it where it needs to be. Honestly, I don't really know how to explain it better than the clymers manual can....is there any particular part of it you're not having luck with? Clutch adjustment isn't very hard when you already have the clutch cover off. I also remember the manual saying that if you cannot get it in adjustment, you're probably in need of a new clutch and / or cable.

I agree too...

I would go ahead and take the carbs off and put a small amount of grease on your slides...I'll bet your problem clears right up When you spray the carb with cleaner it "dries up" your slides and can cause them to stick. By adding a little bit of grease to the slides before installation it allows them to slide easier... If that doesn't work, I think you either have an air leak, broken reed, or choke tube not in place...

Never called you an idiot, you did that by yourself...you must not have looked very hard because they're everywhere... http://www.duncanracing.com/buyersguide/yamahabanshee.phtml http://www.whitebros.com/04catalog/ATVControls.pdf Rocky Mountain DOES have them... http://www.rockymountainatv.com/Machine_De...ar=2000&status= And Vitos DOES have a kit...Item # 101351 http://www.vitosperformance.net/BANSHEE.HTM#CARB Why don't you actually look before you start telling people the parts aren't out there...

Have you cleaned your carbs recently? If you have and did not grease the slides, they could be sticking in the body of the carb....had that happen to me a time or two

Regardless of where you find one there is no way you'll have it shipped and received within 12 hours for your trip. Why did you wait until the last minute to get one?

What jets are you running now? Has something changed that's making you worry about your jetting?

Didn't keep you from bangin that chick behind your fiance's back and then her to follow...that was just wrong

Call the dealer....they would know better than we would. Every dealership is different, so what's coming out at one may not be the case for others

Exactly

Could be but not necessarily. If you have a loose connection it could do this as well. Checking the pilot jets as well as the channels they reside in wouldn't be a bad idea, but wouldn't settle for that being the problem. I honestly think it is either a short in your wiring a ground wire that's not solid. I had a very similar issue and it turned out that I had a short in my keyswitch, which would allow it to run fine for a while but once I turned the handlebars past a certain point the wire would short out, causing my banshee to just die all of a sudden. Took me the better part of 2 weeks to find that one

Happy Birthday!!!

Was the shop able to get it started? I say you probably need to just kick it harder

Exactly... I run Bel Ray oil in my banshee

Taken from Maxima's site.... Castor 927: "Castor 927 is a unique blend of highly refined castor oil, a specially prepared synthetic and an additive system that reduces carbon and gum formation and provides excellent rust & corrosion protection. Castor 927 also contains an exclusive additive that keeps power valves cleaner and working properly. For all of us that wish to keep our air and water cleaner, Castor 927 is biodegradable. Castor 927 keeps on lubricating; where other lubricants turn to carbon or vaporize, and provides extra protection on cylinder walls, bearing journals and other critical areas at temperatures much higher than other lubricants. " Usage: "Castor 927 is ideally suited as a premix for both leaded and unleaded fuels." Cautions: "Not intended for use in oil injection systems. When blending with alcohol it normally requires more oil. Care must be exercised when blending with low specific gravity (below 0.730) race gasoline and in temperatures below 35

That's cool, are there any good riding spots up your way? My friends and I are always looking for a good place to ride... There's a few cool places here, nothing spectacular or anything but fun to say the least. PM me if you want to try and meet up and ride sometime; we were thinking of going close to Nashville to this place called 143 offroad....have you heard anything about that place?

TORS is a "throttle over-ride system" which is designed to make your life hell. J/P Seriously though, the TORS tend to short out, malfunction, and fall apart which of course is not good, and they can easily be replaced with an aftermarket cap that makes jetting changes simpler and cleans up the appearance of the carbs. You will not lose any performance, etc. from removing the TORS, you will gain easier access to the carbs and one less possibility for part failure. The TORS were designed to keep your throttle from sticking (so I'm told) but you don't need a TORS system to shut your bike down, that's what we have the "on/off" switch for in my opinion...someone else may be able to give a better description of what exactly the TORS do other than add grief to your banshee. LOL Compression at sea level altitude should be 120 psi stock. Sounds like you're doing good on the top end Oh yeah, welcome to the forums!!

Oh OK, I know what you mean...I'm pretty sure that's a float issue. It's probably forcing the gas up into the carb body and then blowing it out the tube...

All my fuel lines are transparent green OK, the way my fuel lines are run is I have one that comes down from the petcock that feeds into a "T" connection. From that "T" connection I have a fuel line that runs to each carb. That's it....only other tube in the carb area is the choke tube. Sounds like it may be a good time to replace your fuel lines if they leak

geez loco, first you can't jet worth a shit and now you can't keep your axle nuts tight....what's next? I'll bet if you could score a woman as big as Stephen's she could put the hercules grip on it and you'd never have to worry about it again. J/P man

I've heard of people using kerosene but IMHO it's best to split the cases. You never know what might be wedged in a crevice that could pop out and fubar something in the bottom end Going through the bottom end shouldn't take but a few hours to tear down, clean, and re-assemble...

If I'm thinking correctly the upper tube runs from your gas tank to your carbs, and in theory if the upper tube is leaking then the gas you're seeing around the intakes is probably what has leaked out of the upper tube.

LOL, probably more expensive than the cost of materials to make one!!! If I didn't already have a pair of Kicker 12's I'd pick yours up in a heartbeat. Come on guys, this is a great deal going on here!! Somebody needs to snatch this up...