bigboybanshee

I agree, I have an old set in my garage....

The best and most accurate way to tell if the cylinder is bored and/or what bore it is on is by using a micrometer.

The high revs are supposed to have the same aspects as the mids do but with a little more top end pull.

Does it still want to roll a little once it's warmed up? Mine would do that until I rode it and warmed it up, then I wouldn't have any more issues until it sat and got cool again. When you installed the tusk kit did it come with aftermarket clutch springs? If it did, and you installed all 6 of the aftermarket springs, that would be why it's tough to pull the lever. Try adjusting it more at the perch and see if that helps your problem with the arm not fully returning. If the arrows on the case are close to matching then you should be fine on your adjustments inside the clutch cover

AMEN brotha!!!

LOL, neversatisfied beat me to it!!

It took me about an hour and a half; taking my time. I didn't have to remove the plastics or gas tank. Just be sure to take a torque wrench with you to Sand Mountain so you can check the head (re-torque the nuts to be sure they're all tight and even) after riding it a little while. All nuts should be torqued to 20 lbs, and should be tightened in the same pattern as you would a stock head. Use vaseline or grease to help keep the o-rings in the head while you install it; that way you don't have to worry about the o-rings slipping out of place and getting pinched, etc...Oh yeah, don't use the factory head gasket along with the o-rings. Only reason I say that is because some people have done it! That's all I can think of for now, it's a pretty easy install! Good luck

I know what you mean!! I have 80 feedback when I know I've done well over 150 transactions on ebay.....lazy bastards!!!! Glad to hear there is light at the end of the tunnel for you chapman!!!

Nah, I can't make it...Unlike most people, I have to work on Monday... We'll have to set something up in a couple months or so and we'll definitely have a few cold ones

That would be wise....

What kind of difference did you notice switching from the 20cc to the 18cc domes? I mean, did you notice more overall power, more low end, more torque, no difference, etc.?

Were the 18cc domes cut or standard? If cut, who cut them? Thanks for the help guys

I bought these pipes...

I'm about to be building a drag engine and was wondering what kind of compression you guys are running in your setups? What size domes are you running (cut/standard) ? I know that porting will lower your overall comression but am not sure if you should compensate that loss by running a smaller dome....I also hear that running really high compression will reduce top end performance; is that true? Sorry for so many questions, just want to be sure I build it right

If you are at 150 psi of compression, advancing the timing will not require race fuel. If you were at 160, I'd recommend maybe running a 50/50 mix (race/pump gas) with +4 timing. But with you at 150, +4 would be ideal for you...especially with the porting. I ran +4 timing at 150 psi on 93 octane with no problems at all; no pinging, no detonation. If you have the adjustable plate, try bumping up the timing to +2, see how it runs. If better, go ahead and put it on +4.

Never dealt with him and now I won't! I've learned on ebay that unless their feedback is 100% (out of at least 50+ auctions selling) than I make email contact with them before I send out the money. That way, if I get no response back, they get no money and no one gets ripped off Sorry to hear about your loss!!

OK; I remember you saying that with the 290 main that it revved quicker, but did you ride it? If so, how did it ride? Were you able to do a plug chop? The port you have may be a clean-up port job...if that is the case, then Big Blue's and sredish's theories make the most sense in this situation. If I were you, I would put whatever jets in it that make it run right. No matter what other people's engines run off of (jet sizes); every engine is different to some degree. As long as the plugs tell you you're getting a sufficient amount of gas then you should have nothing to worry about.

No, I don't think that would really be ideal. If you want something with a good all around range I hear that FMF Fattys have exactly that; all around pull. Throw those with a solid MX port, carbs, and air filter and you should be close to where I'm assuming you want to be...

How clean is your air filter(s)? If changing your pilot jet didn't help, and adjusting your idle/air screws didn't help either, I'm not sure where to point you....Have you advanced your timing? If not, that "could" help eliminate your problem. What kind of porting did you have done?

Nope. Porting opens up your intake and exhaust, allowing more air and fuel to pass through, resulting in more horsepower. Are you 100% sure those cylinders you bought are ported? I've never heard of anyone going down on jetting with ported cylinders.

PT mids have great low end and mid-range, but the top end is not there....hence the name of the pipe. I would say the power starts dropping off between 6-7000 rpm's, respectively. If I were you, I'd go ahead and buy the whole set (head pipes and silencers) off ebay or something. You won't save much money at all by just buying the head pipes, they are the most expensive part of buying pipes. Here in the very near future I'll be selling my PT mids and I'll sell them for a fair price. They are chrome and have polished FMF silencers on them...I just have to wait until I get my other pipes in before I can sell these. I think fixitrod ran PT mids on a stroker engine, he may be able to give you more insight on the pipes.

You ever heard about blackberries? They can get you on the HQ while you're dropping a load They are cell phones, email, internet access, and much more. Damn near everyone I work with has one; would drive me nuts!! The calendar idea is a cool one, and would be a lot cheaper to make IMO. Technically all we would need is someone that could print them out once the design is made...and would only need to have them made once a year.