sredish

Have you changed the tranny fluid? Not saying this is definitely the cause, but the fluid could be old or not a very good brand or something and that can make gear engagement a little more difficult. I'd change the fluid and get a recommended brand. I personally run Silkolene Comp Gear designed for that type of application. You need something that will lubricate and also dissipate the heat of a wet clutch.

Midnight auto.

What Banchetta said is 99.9% right on. I just wanted to add the stupid little thought that came into my head about a dirty airfilter. You have cleaned the filter recently, right? If you haven't here lately and it's dirty, it can do that. But, like I said, that is probably not what's going on given what you said, just something to think about.

First off, you need to pull the needle(s) in question and look just below the clip area and above the taper, you'll see some numbers stamped there. Then, get the phone number off of the CarbParts.com site and call them and discuss what your looking for. If you want the same, just give them the digits off of the needle, if you want something richer, leaner or different, just tell them and they can advise you. Needles can be really confusing, so it's best to talk to someone directly and have them help you.

Lincster, are you ported?

I second that.

Send CottonEyedJoe a pm. Believe he makes them.

I know it decreases the life span, but hell, someone's got to try it. I've never heard of anyone running it that way so I wanna see what shee feels like. I'll probably keep it in the normal setting for a little while, get it broke in, jetted and then see what she dynos at. Then change to the low setting and dyno again, see what the difference is. I have new replacement reeds coming for it anyway seeing as they're over a year old.

I believe it's like that on purpose, to make you feel like your freaking flying.

If one needle is bent or not working properly in one carb, it could affect the perfomance in the one cylinder and possibly cause a situation like your describing. I get all my carb jets and needles from CarbParts.com

Then don't do it. The purpose of the mod is to increase airflow, and with the increase in airflow, you can add more fuel, which will add power.

You have to click a little and let off, and as it starts to go down again, click some more. Come on led, you know how to do it...

If your running mx and all, there is no doubt that the single carb is what you need. As far as pipes, FMF makes a good set of pipes, whether you go Gnarlies or Fatties, althouth the Gnarlies sound more suited for you. If you have a little bigger budget, go for Paul Turner Mids for the ultimate power.

I was at Wal Mart and grabbed some Mothers polish. Didn't check it before I left. It's the "Mag & Aluminum" polish. The instructions say, "Not recommended for gold plating, chrome, anodized, painted or coated metals". So, I guess I'll have to take it back to use on my Ceramic Coated pipes. I have some Blue Magic, I'll probably just try that stuff again. Anyone ever use the Mag & Alum. polish before? I'm not too experienced in the polishing department. Later.

Only bad thing about a poll like this is way too many people give their "opinion" and not experience. Many people tell us how bad they are and pretty much they've never tried it. So, if you've never ridden a single carbed machine, don't vote!

I was gonna say an air leak also. My 2-1 doesn't do that nor is it a common thing with the single carb. There is obviously something going on with that cylinder. Air leak or reed issue is a good first place to check.

Ahahahahhhhaaa! I had the stupid mofo upside-down. I pulled it out and was putting it in exactly how i had pulled it out. The PC'er must've pulled it out and put it back in upside-down. Ah well, what fun is it if it goes perfectly. I still highly recommend not PC'ing it because of the difficulty of getting the bushings/bearings in due to the tighter tolerances with the paint. I went back after posting that to look at it a bit more and went to try to thread it in by hand and noticed it seemed to be trying to thread much much better. I took it out and looked at it to see why it was different and to clean it up a little more having a tad more hope and noticed that it was upside-down from the previous attempt. So, nonetheless, she's now sitting with the stem in, the bars on, the radiator on, a-arms on and ready to hook the front brakes up. Tomorrow I'll do that and put on the electrical. Later fellas.

Do not ever powdercoat the goddamned stem bushing area. It was my choice to tape or not. I stupidly said that I'd put the threaded cap back on and it would be fine. Hell No! Ok, after cussing, manipulating, banging, reaming, cussing some more, I think I have the bushing far enough in to thread the cap on, but it keeps jumping off. I'm thinking it's because of the paint on the lip where the threads start and don't allow it to go ahead and thread on. I've been dicking with this one thing for about 1 and half hours and am going f'cking insane. The tool I have just slips through so I can't put any hard downpressure while I'm turning it. I should've reamed the inside more but I didn't and now the bushing's in there or I'd take it out and work the threads some. So, I guess I'm f'ed! I'm fed up dicking with the one thing tonight and am ready to get mad. My rear shock didn't come yesterday so I couldn't mess with that. Figured I'd get the stem, bars front brakes and rad on. Oh well... is there an image for beating my f'ing head against a wall, oh wait...

Please do.

Damn that looks nice.

Yea, new from Trinity, the 2-1 kit is around 5 bones, and no air filter or pro-flow stuff, just manifold, carb, cable and gaskets. I bought mine off of Ebay for around $350 also.

My head.... Nah, got it from BenBB's website. The Speed Calculator.

You'll be around a 185 main, 48 pilot, and needle in the 4th clip with that setup. It's a lot easier to jet also.

If your saying that, you haven't tried it. I'm geared to 15/41 and I race woods, ride tight trails, and rarely ever get her into 6th, probably just on plug runs. My gears are longer therefore not shifting constantly. If I ran a 12/40 in the woods, I'd be shifting pretty much constantly. With my gearing, I can hold 3rd gear in the woods from a lug to a revved out 12/40: 2nd Gear 3,000 rpm = 10.3 mph 9,000 rpm = 30.9 mph 3rd Gear 3,000 rpm = 12.4 mph 9,000 rpm = 37.3 mph 15/41 in 3rd Gear: 2nd Gear 3,000 rpm = 12.5 mph 9,000 rpm = 37.6 mph 3rd Gear 3,000 rpm = 15.1 mph 9,000 rpm = 45.5 mph So, that's about 8 mph I gain in the 3rd gear through the woods with my gearing. In fact, my 3rd gear pretty much takes over your 3rd AND 4th. If I was running your gearing, I'd have to shift again to get more speed than 37 mph, then shift back down in the next corner. I can easily lug 3rd and hold the slower speed and blip the clutch and be out of there, and if I DO shit into 4th, I'm gone. It'd take you two gears to keep up with my one. It's all preferences, but I guarantee you don't ride any tighter than I do, I can barely fit my machine through the shit I go through, but I will open her up into 4th and 5th, where with a lower gearing, I'd be out of revs. We all need to do what we like best, that's what's fun about this.

We'll see. Heard i might have family coming in over the weekend...