sredish

Loco, I kinda thought they'd perform similar to your cut Kendas. I just might by a rear set to try out. I have a spare set of ITP HD wheels that are just sitting there. Here's an image of them for those that are confused about what tire we're talking about.

I'd like to try a set. I'm afraid they might spin a bit more than I'd like, with all those voids, but I'd sure like to try them and see. They do look wicked.

I'm not one for mechanical broadheads either. A good traditional head is as good as anything. I forgot what I have used last, but it shot as straight as my practice points. I shoot a 70# draw weight, with about a 85% letoff also. I think 40# would be iffy on a hog honestly, they have a very very tough hide and it's hard to break through with light draw weights.

Who cares what they sound like, the FMFs are what you need if you are considering any type of mx, and trust me, they'll do great in the dunes as well, I speak from experience. The T-6s suck. The Fatties will walk all over them, especially if you ever get any portwork.

Digital projection is supposed to be the shit. Bar none. You should be able to get a nice projector for 3G's, and it'd probably be a hell of a lot better than the typical big screen. My bro has one of the lastest big screens, and I don't think it holds shit to my Samsung DLP.

I agree. The ignition is nice, but you can set atiming plate to +6 or +7 and get enough of a gain to get what you need. If your looking for more raw power, then you need to bust into the cylinders. Think good portwork, or even a stroker or big bore setup. Those will get you the most power for your money. I bet you'd be lucky to get 3 or 4 hp with a Dyna ignition, if that. Portwork can be a 20% gain or more if done right. So, time to break that motor apart and do some real man's mods. Just make sure to plan it out. If you ever have plans to go stroker, then it might not be a good idea for a standard port job, because it might affect the ability to stroke the motor later, due to the port timing changes and all.

I've heard that shit is amazing. I'd love to try it out, but like you said.... pricey!

Buy "ignition", I'm guessing you mean the keyed switch? That's typically where they go.

what numbers...

wait.....

All fixed!

Looks fast to me....

What a waste of bandwidth....

that dune port could be a big variable. With that porting, it could be a 330 or a 360. I'd throw a 340 or 350 in and run a plug check.

I'd say try the 27.5 and see if it helps, it might be a tad rich. It won't need any more than a 30 that's for sure, and if it's a little sputtery or kinda wanting to die, you might try going to the 27.5. The reeds will richen it a tad, and help the flow at idle also, so going down one size on the pilot might be the ticket. My personal opinion, the head won't make a whole lot of difference. Compression will help the starting, but only a little, and when you start getting a lot of compression it gets harder to turn over and offsets any compression benefits you get. My opinion. Cool.

I'm almost finished with the San Fierro missions. I'll be outta here by this weekend and hittin up the casinos.

I may be way out in left field here, but has the weather changed, like getting colder? My first thought was a compression check or leak as well, and it looks like you've covered that. But if it's not that, and it runs fine on the gas, just not at idle, I was thinking that maybe you were a tad lean or on the edge before and now that the temps have started dropping, maybe it's a little lean and that's where your trouble is from starting. Do you choke, or do you have to choke to start? Next time your idling and it's acting strange, pull the choke lever and see if it helps to clear it up some, if it does, then that means your pilot is lean. Just a thought.

I run a 10/56 and it's perfect!

When I ordered my shocks, I had them "speced" for my stock a-arms cause thats what i had. Later, I went to +2 and talked to Eric @ Elka about what I needed to do, and he said the valving won't change much, but the spring rate is what gets you. He sent out new main springs for $40 and they took 10 seconds to put on, no tools required and they're perfect now, seem better now then before. So, I'd just order the shocks for what you have, then later, when you go wider, just order a little stiffer main springs, and your fine. Just talk to Eric and he'll get you all the info you need. Oh, and that's what I'd do is get shocks. Plastic doesn't help performance, and right now your weak link is the shocks. Wider a arms with stock shocks wouldn't even be raceable I wouldn't think, I wouldn't try it.

ahhahaha, i just about shit myself....

It's not stuck closed, it's like I have a shitload of air. What you said there is probably what's happened, I'm so f'in thick sometimes, that's probably exactly what happened. I'm just gonna suck all the fluid out and then put all new in and eliminate any chance of trapped air. Thanks rod.

I'll try pulling it off later. See what's going on in there. The adjuster is adjusted almost all the way out, so it can't be that. I could have some air in there I guess. Funny thing is, it was never opened up, so air shouldn't have ever gotten in there. Even so, i've bled the piss out of it, but i might drain all the fluid and replace it that way I know I've gone all the way through the hose with the fluid. Cool, thank for the ideas.

Cesar Gonzalez. chu got a fugging prolem with that ese?

About the only problem I've come across with this rebuild is the rear brakes. When I put the rear master cylinder on, there was no rear brake pressure at all. I figured I'd just bleed it, no biggie. So, a few days later, I bled the fronts, got the brakes going, and the went to the rear. Checked the fluid, good. Pulled out my vacuum, put it on and opened the bleeder. Brake fluid came out and I closed it. Then I went to bleed the lever by hand to get the tight feel back in it, and discovered that the lever still went all the way down, with a hint of feel at the very bottom. So, I tried bleeding by hand, and fluid came out like its supposed to, but could not get any feel in it, except for maybe a slight amount at the bottom. I have new brake pads, and they worked exceptionally when they were removed, so what the hell would cause them not to have any feel now? When I swapped the pads, I had to screw with the parking brake crap on the caliper. The parking brake is all removed except for the cover on the caliper, need to get a blockoff. Do I need to do something with that screw sticking out, or what the F is going on with them?