sredish

Is that $100 for all four? Sorry, I've been workin all day. Yes, $100 for all four, excluding spindles, in fact, I'll ship them for $100. I'll get pics posted of them off the shee. In the meantime, here's one with them on the shee. Click on the pic for a larger picture. Scott

....just drew a blank, someone else chime in if I'm forgetting anything. and panties for you ladies out there....

or you can just put the slot in your stocker for FREEE and have the same adjustability.

I had crabs, but just got rid of them.

Are they the stock carbs? That can be somewhat common for stock carbed shees. Something to do with the choke circuit. Have you cleaned the carbs, and checked the jets for clogs or anything? Look behind the flywheel for any oil to see if the left seal is leaking, if that starts leaking, it can suck a little air and cause the left side to lean as well, but it would probably be more than slightly leaner.

try a fish under the back seat. that will probably get rid of the beer smell.

Les dooo it!!

I thought you were more the 2 bottles of vaseline, a 12-pack and the shee...

Hey, When I had my intake apart and checking the reeds and manifold and gaskets and all. I noticed the reeds were on the High setting. For sh*ts and giggles, I decided to put them on the Low setting. Earlier today, a bud told me that they'd be more prone to break on the Low setting and could f*ck some shit up if they break. Whats all your opinions on using the Low setting, and should I be ripping this thing back apart to put them where they were originally? Definitely don't feel like breaking reeds at the moment. Later.

Yeah, they're not mounted on the bike yet, but I posted one in the new wheels thread I started in Gen. Discuss. Here's the quick link.

Okie beer is 3.2. If you feel you need more alcohol in your beer than that, better buy it before you get in there. I might be bringin the Jose or El Presidente!! Oh yea, that camera is too expensive for my blood. I was looking at them, but looks like I'll need to have a self powered camera, right? I like the $30 ones better...

You don't need to. When I replace axles, I leave it all there, remove the axle nuts and slide the axle out and just slide the axle back in through the chain and all. Don't see why you have to, what are you doing exactly?

Does King make shocks for quads? Fox makes some pretty damn nice offroad shocks for trucks and desert cars. Haven't tried or heard much about their new atv shocks.

I think mine does have in input. What do they actually call the cameras so I can look for one on Ebay. I'd love to have one for my next race. That would be so totally awesome.

don't worry about carbs until you get into a stroker or really agressive porting. dynos have shown that the stock carbs can outperform larger carbs overall and with your mild port, I'd wait. If your looking for more top end for a drag or dune setup, then some 28's would be fine or have your stockers bored to 28. See, the larger carbs you get, the more the powerband moves up in rpms. If you were to stick a pair of 35's, then you'd have a lot more top, but your low and mid would have left the building. If your looking for some more low end, switch to a single 35mm from Trinity, and actually, the single carb setup will give you a lot more low and mid as well as more top end than the stockers will give you. Also, the single carb will go hand in hand with the PT Mids. If it were me, I'd either get the single, or stick with the stockers and get a TORS eliminator kit. On a sidenote, you can get your crank rebuilt with long rods, cheaper than you can buy a long rod crank, then throw in some Wiseco 795 pistons and wallah..... one long rod banshee, although, depending on your present porting, you might have to have someone do some port timing adjustments.

Alright. when you come through and pay then start down the road. Up ahead to the right of the road, there's a lone tree next to the other trail that goes off to the right. My truck is a black F250 4-dr with ... a banshee, big surprise. Let's plan on meeting there, easy to see. If I go, it'll be like 9 or 10 when I get there.

That's a big F*&K YEAH!! I've been wanting to do something like that for awhile, but can't find the stuff needed. Can I get like an attacment for my camera I wonder? Great idea bigboy!!

Without a doubt. You'll be flowing much much more air which means you'll be needing more fuel as well. All port jobs flow a little different, so we can't really tell you where to begin, but I'd go to 350s and start there, or maybe 370s. Definitely start rich and see what happens. Let us know where you end up as well.

You can try Nacs. Duncan is usually pretty expensive. Otherwise, just go straight to Elka.

As far as the timing, that's fine, that's where I and many others run ours. 170 is good compression, and I'm sure you know, that is a 110 octane machine, anything less and you'll be looking for a new top end. My philosophy with jetting is, use my gut feeling. If this looks good or that looks good, but my gut tells me something's up, I follow my gut. If you feel it's running leaner, then do something to change that. Worst you can do by going richer is ruin a plug. Now, you can't tell anything by firing the bike up and revving it a few times. When you get out and ride it, it will have a much much harder load on the bike and this will lean your bike out more. Also, the ONLY way to tell how lean/rich the main jet is, is by getting it up to 5th or 6th gear holding the throttle pinned Wide Open Throttle and kill it. The 5th or 6th gear will put a heavy load on it and the WOT will be pulling straight from the main and this will give you a true and accurate reading as to how the main jet is running. Were the plugs new, if so, they won't color much, if any, until they're heated up good for about 15 or 20 minutes. My suggestion is to go out and run the bike and pull plug readings properly. If all you've done is increase the compression and advance the timing, and the bike was running right before, then you'll probably be alright, in some cases, a slight change could be necessary, but you'll have to run the bike like I said above to really know. Good luck.

This statement pretty much sums it up for me as well, except I can piss out the back door and I've got a beer fridge stashed and I don't tell anyone where it is, unless they're getting me one. I also have 3 or 4 parts sitting in the kitchen or dining room at any given time, at the moment it's my new beadlocks I took apart and a couple air filters. Spark plugs are common also.

PRM seesm to have some of the strongest stuff. I'd give them a try. Scott

a gimmick. they're supposed to help equalize the carbs and "store a fresh charge of air/fuel" for the cylinders, but they are pretty much a gimmick. don't get one, and don't buy a "power-up kit" from the big retailers. the retailers will package a set of pipes, a boost bottle, and a jet kit and charge you more for it and the only thing that's worth paying for is the pipes. i have seen some builders or whatever the f*&k they called themselves go into detail about how if they built one with the right angles or something, the sonic wave would pull something, given some engineering behind it with the proper stuff, maybe they help something, but the $30 jobbies, nope. Just don't worry, you don't need one, spend your money elsewhere. First mods in this order. 1. Filter box plate (Pro Flow, or the deal from Noss Machine listed above) 2. Pipes and be sure to match them to your ride style (do a search on the different kinds, there's lots of info there) 3. Tires (power is no good if it won't hook up) 4. Compression (buy a head from Noss Machine or let boonman mill yours for you cheap) Let us know when you get here.

you'll be passed by us on a regular basis.