sredish

Here's a dyno sheet off of a single carbed banshee, I was wanting to wait and put a few up with a piped, stock carbed shee for comparison, but it's all I've got.. Keep in mind, that this is for curve purposes only and am not trying to get into a "how much horsepower" thread. Mods are as follows: Mission Yamaha MX Port-Upper and Lower Cases Graydon Proline intake Kehien 35MM carb (195 main) Cool head 18cc domes Pro Circuit Pipes stock reeds Without further ado:

Lets hope the world, or at least Washingon, isn't relying on Al Roker.

Yes, I do have a 35, and I think some of my "too rich of a main" issues are on the size of the carb. I believe, if I had a 33, the air would go through the carb with more velocity and it would pull the fuel through better. If both cylinders fired at the same time or close to it, then the cylinders would be fighting for air through one carb and performance would seriosly suffer. But, as I'm sure most of you know, the cylinders fire at 180 degrees, so, while one is sucking in air, the other is throwing out exhaust. With the dual carbs, technically, one carb will pull air, then the other, and back and forth. While at 10,000 rpm it's probably too subtle to ever know, there's a stop and go action. With the single carb, there is a constant flow of air through the carb, no stop and go. Once a dual carbed motor gets going the stop and go is much less, but at slower rpms, it's more prevalent and this causes the low/mid to suffer. Opposite with the single carb, at low rpms and high rpms, there is the constant rush of available air/fuel. The 35 gives plenty of air to the motor. I think my single carb would perform better with a long rod setup, I'd put money on it. There are so many people that knock that setup but have never tried or ridden a single carbed machine. I'll say, I've raced against Toomeys, Pro Circuits, and loads others that were similarly modded and some ported, and I hang right with them. I've raced with them all on sand, in the dirt and it's always pretty even. Sometimes I'm in the lead and puttin some whoopin and sometimes I'm a little behind, you all know that the start has a lot to do, but my single setup has hung in with ANY dual setup that is somewhat similar to mine. Loco, none of my business, but I think if you went to a set of 30's, you'd see more midrange and maybe help the boggy area. Toomey, I'm definitely not trying to put your machine down, but gearing has everything to do with winning drags. Chances are, if that shee had DMCs and a single carb, he's setup for woods/trails and I'd bet money that his gearing is either stock or lowered. You could take a somewhat stock piped machine with 15/41 gearing and whoop the f*ck out of a Stage IV 370 geared to 13/41. Cool, hope I've made sense and not offended anyone.

you need to adjust the needle. if it's a flat bog, which it sounds like, you'll want to move the clip down one notch (towards the pointed end / away from the blunt end) and try it there. That'll richen up that area of the throttle and hopefully get rid of the bog.

C'mon, grow up guys!!!

it's a hard call. if it's really that nice, you could have a nice virgin shee for just another 4 bills than you have now. But looking at it in another angle, for 3,500 you could probably find one that's got pipes and tires and maybe some other little things. It's more expensive, but you can rely on a machine that hasn't been built. If it's been built at all, it could've been beat on or not done right, etc. Mine was stock and that's the way I wanted it. It wouldn't be too bad of a deal if you just went for that one.

Do you use the choke to start it when cold and when hot, or not at all? Does it require the choke to start warm? Have you had any problems with your choke circuit? You might try a 30 pilot and see if that helps. What clip is your needle on? It should probably be on the 4th from the top/blunt end. If the needle is in the 3rd, I'd recommend to change the clip to the 4th and try it. If it's not fixed, then go to a 30 pilot and see how that works. Let us know.

No prob. I'll just pull the wakeboard out of the boat and grab a rop while I'm there. I haven't been once this year. Not a bad idea actually. Anyone wanna try it, I could pull the fins. Ok, off topic. 2003 Black F250 Crew Cab 4x4 Lifted w/ 35s. Have a blue Yamaha Factory Racing sticker on the rear plate. Shee is B&W w/ cut fenders.

Dammit, my mac only pulls 2.8 megs and stops. Did it like three times. The first little part looks really good tho. Nice fx!!

It's an 02. Probabaly ought to throw somethin in sig about the year.

I think a set of out-frame drag pipes sound as good as it can get, but that wouldn't work very good for me, well maybe with one pipe on each side as a foot rest.

I was actually looking at that. I was feeling lazy and wanted something that will bolt up in the stock position, but I can make anything work I imagine. I don't think that has a brake function tho, maybe i'm wrong.

What a PITA, huh?

in the summer, we used to pop a small hole in a water melon and pour half a bottle in the watermelon and put it in the fridge for a few hours. Mmmm good.

I'd like to find a much much smaller tail light/brake light. I hate the gigantic stocker that is the size of a baseball. I don't really care if it's an LED or just small bulbs, just needs to be small. Later.

Stickier grease... yea, maybe. If you were to lay the orings over the grooves, they're always a tad bigger, you have to "massage" them into place, and, with the grease trick, will hold themselves in there. So they've been on the machine, you took the head off and you've since tried to put it back on twice? Why not go ahead and use the new orings.

uuuh, yea, they are somewhat important.

Why not, it works out so well that way!!

Damn, I'm be lit all the time if my wife was a bartender. Hell, I'd give her a bill a week if she'd have a drink ready when I walk in the door at night.

Vito's pistons are made by Wiseco, built to their specs. I wouldn't worry about Pro Lites at all. If they're installed correctly, and the bore is prepared correctly there shouldn't be any trouble. That goes for the both. I wouldn't hesitate to use either.

Sorry, forgot to attach the pic. It has a little bit of mud on it from the ride yesterday, but it looks good.

Sorry, forgot to attach the pic. It has a little bit of mud on it from the ride yesterday, but it looks good.

Have a chrome rear grab bar that I'd like to get rid of and turn into green. I'll ship it for $20. let me know. Also, I'll trade for an led tail light or something much less obnoxious than the stock tail light.

Have a chrome rear grab bar that I'd like to get rid of and turn into green. I'll ship it for $20. let me know. Also, I'll trade for an led tail light or something much less obnoxious than the stock tail light.