MILO

i agree 100% at this point, i think you need to throw on a new cable before doing much else though just to eliminate the possibility of that being the problem. then you may have to do a custom set up to straighten it out if it still doesn't work.

it's not an issue of them being worn out. i've replaced the original stock set up several years ago with the same pivot works kit that i used this time and i don't recall what happened to those washers because i apparently didn't reuse them then either. if they need to be in there, i'll have to order new ones i guess. thanks bud.

so i have all new parts and just put the swing arm back on. is it normal for the swinger to have some play side to side between the frame or am i missing something? it's not twist like with bad bearings because i just put in a new bearing kit and pivot shaft, but i can slide my swinger straight left to right about 3/16". as i said before the sleeve is wider than the swinger but is there supposed to be a washer or something in there somewhere to take up some of the play? the microfiche for the stock set up shows a washer inside each of the thrust covers, but the pivot works kit doesn't come with any. i would assume that if they were still needed pivot works would have supplied them. i would assume that the swing arm should only move up and down, not shift side to side but i could be wrong. if anybody has any thoughts please let me know asap. thanks. by the way, my frame opening previously measured 9 1/8" and it's now 9" after the pivot shaft being properly torqued. which makes sense because the shaft sleeve (8 7/8") + the thrust cover on each side (1/16" each) = 9" so it's a tight fit that way. but the pivot shaft sleeve is 3/16" wider than the swingarm and that's where the play is occurring.

you will run into some clutch issues if the fingers of the basket are grooved. i've heard of people filing them down to smooth them out again if they are mild grooves, but it's only a temporary fix. it doesn't take much of a groove for it to affect your clutch performance. i would suggest getting a billet basket while you have it apart.

if i remember correctly, i think i used the same trick, the rag between the gears.

poker runs are usually great to go on. there are a lot of them throughout Pa. over the course of the summer. there's usually one somewhere just about every weekend. some weekends you can pick between a handfull of different places. most have a good mix of riding. fast trails, tight trails, mud, play areas, etc. almost all of them have alternate trails around the rough spots or major mud holes if you choose not to tackle them. the one we went on this past sunday was in ramey, pa. it was about 28 miles long. i've been on rides with anywhere from 200 riders to 1300 riders. most of the ones i've been on don't actually do the poker game, you just draw chips at the check points for a chance at a prize. usually money or riding gear, etc. you can ride at your own pace and stop as often as you please to watch others take on the mud holes or play areas. definitely go to one if you get the chance, it's always a good time. here's a link to the pennsylvania events page on the paatving site. paatving / events

well i bought an '08 grizzly 700 is october so i have the 4wd quad that i've always wanted. as far as another sport quad it would have to be a rappy 700. the yfz's seem to small. i've never ridden one, but just to sit on one feels like i'm on a blaster again. the rappy is a much better fit and i've ridden my buddy's 660 rappy and liked it a lot. it's no banshee thats for sure, but i would say it's the next best thing.

cool, thanks. :beer:

when i did mine i used a wrag between the gears. it's enoug to bind it up but not hurt anything. also if you have an air wrench it will break loose quickly and easily, sometimes even without anything holding the gears.

i don't know which is worse. the ad, or the fact that there are 17 bids on it :biggrin:

i've never been to bansheeriders.com, but bluetraxx just isn't as informative and knowledgable as the folks here. there hasn't been 1 issue that i ran into that someone on the HQ hasn't dealt with before and knows how to help out, and is eager to do so. i haven't even looked elsewhere since finding the HQ, haven't had a reason to and don't foresee it happening either.

does cascade have replacement bushings for works shocks, or anybody else for that matter. or do you have to go directly thru works? i'm due for some again. last time i dealt with works direct over the phone.

i've used EBC severe duty pads for several years. they work awsome. they work really well in really dry and dusty to really wet and muddy conditions. they seem to wear pretty well also. they are probably the best pads i've used for offroad.

as long as it's smooth 3/4 to full throttle, don't drop the main any more. play it safe and stay on the rich side.

i agree, just tap the bowls a little and it will probably stop. if not, take it apart, double check for debris, and put it back together. it's just the float hanging up.

retune?? what do you consider retune to be? if you don't change jetting after increasing air flow it will be running lean and cause major issues.

where and how many holes should i put in it? i'm assuming the zerk would be about the center of the swinger tube and the holes in the sleeve would be at the same place.

if tightening the nuts takes care of it, i wouldn't bother with the carrier bearings just yet, but keep an eye on it. if you jack the rear end up a little and grab each wheel and try push forwards/backwards on them you'll feel that it's loose if the bearings are shot. while you're doing that, check your swingarm where it bolts to the frame. the bearings at the swinger pivot wear out and let it rock side to side also.

if you ride trails that are anything like riding in my area, it's impossible to stay out of the mud and wet stuff. :biggrin: i would think that the foam filters would be better for the kind of debris you may be getting into it, rather than a k & n style filter. either way, keep it cleaned regularly and you should be fine. don't forget that anything that you do to increase air flow will also require rejetting to compensate for it.

so it should be fine. well that's what i wanted to hear guys. thanks. :beer: i figured i'd use some sort of anti-seize on it this time too. the grease doesn't seem to do the job very well over a long period of time.

i tried removing the snorkel, adding vents in the lid and side of the box just below the lid and didn't really notice much difference. if you want it to really breathe well just ditch the lid, but make sure you have a pro design adaptor plate and filter set up, or similar set up, since the stock set up is pretty much junk. i try to avoid deep water but don't have any issues with mud or dust, etc. i leave the drain catch on the bottom of the box off too so if anything does get into the box it will fall right back out.

assuming that it runs fine otherwise, things may just need a good cleaning. the carbs, air filter, maybe new plugs. or may just need the carbs sync'd and idle adjusted.

my swinger bushings were shot so i got a new pivot works set, but of course the damn pivot bolt wouldn't come out. i know that i greased it very well when i did it the last time too, but that was probably a few years ago. i pounded the shit out of that thing with an 8# sledge and it wouldn't budge, so i had to cut it off. $39 from the stealership for a new pivot bolt :ohmy: anyway, my biggest concern is whether or not i bent the frame some when pounding on things so i need some #'s if anybody has the info. the swinger is 8 11/16" wide, the new sleeve for the pivot bolt is 8 7/8", but my frame is now a 9 1/8" opening. is that normal or did i twist it up? i'm assuming it will pull in when tightened but it sure seems like a lot to me. does anyone know what the dimension should be from the inside of the left side frame to inside of the rt side frame?

the best one of my day... one of the guys who works for me does auto detailing on the side and has a litte ford ranger that is all decked out with extras and next to his mustang it's his pride and joy. my shipping guy and i told him that the vending company truck backed into his truck in the parking lot and pretty much totaled the rear end of his truck. his jaw dropped and he grabbed his stomach, i think it actually almost made him sick, lol. he calmly walked outside to check it out, and came back in ready to strangle us both. it was good, but he had it coming.

i even replaced the plastic heel guard once after breaking it in the woods. $46 for that damn piece of plastic, and i broke it again about a month later so they came off for good. but i leave my steel heel guard on, if that's what you want to call it. i have had my leg go under the tire once. i actually had an ankle brace on at the time because i had just gotten my cast off about a week before. twisting a still healing broken ankle is a bitch. anyway, as long as i ride trails and mud and things, they will stay on. i think a set of nerfs are bound to get caught up on things in the woods so the stockers are better than nothing.