mrmatt

Put it together and run it with the stock pipes. Then let us know what you think. I have always wanted a stock piped sleeper that would kill the new 450s.

Use a screwdriver to work it out. Press lightly on the portion that is in the hole and pry it out carefully. It shouldn't tear, but if it does, just take one off of the frame. Yamaha used a couple of the same rubber parts on the lower section of the frame to keep the stock pipes in place.

Take the front fenders off completely and go for a ride. Then you'll know how dirty you will get. I recently cut my fronts fenders off and I don't have a complaint and I ride a lot of mud. When the tires are straight, all of the mud and water goes beside you. To keep the mud out of your face on turn, you can simply slow down or move your head a little to avoid the mud. I'm even considering cutting my rear fenders off.

Does it help provide more traction? Yes, more so on rough terrain. Does it help the rear suspension work better during accelleration? Yes Does it make a lot of noise? Hell yes. How long do the rollers and bearings last? Less than two years, but I ride in a lot of mud. Does it rob horsepower? I think so. Is it easy to install? No, I had to use a grinder on the spacers to get the rollers to line up with my sprockets. Do I still use mine? No, rather than rebuild it, I purchased a TM design works chain slider and I am happy with the change. I plan to have my rear shock rebuilt to help out the suspension and my shortened swingarm helps provide traction, so I'll probably never put the amp link back on.

I don't know why you can't send me a PM. It isn't full. I sent you another PM with my email address. If that doesn't work I'll post it here.

No I tried a different set of needles and WOT was the same. The needles were narrower but longer than stock. I didn't really notice any change at WOT. They did cause it to be rich at part throttle, even at their leanest setting. I wanted to try V-force reeds and fatty's off of my friends Banshee, but it was way too muddy to be opening the engines up. I was using a dual element foam air cleaner with an outerwear w/out the air box. Once half of the air filter got covered in a 1/4" layer of mud, WOT throttle finally richened up . Since this isn't a fix, I am still messing with it. I am back to running the air box with lid. I may have another oportunity to try out the fatty's and/or the V-force reeds this weekend. I plan to split the case next week and install new crank seals. I was hoping to avoid this, but I am out of options.

Check to see if it has spark when it won't start. If it does, compare how intense the spark is to when the engine is cold.

This is going to be great. I'll print it out and put it with the jetting FAQ that I always take with me to ride.

Holyman, you are a very patient individual. I would have given up on this deal a long time ago. I saw a three page post about someone wanting to get rid of a lightened flywheel, so I expected to see some reasoning for this. Most people rave about their lightened flywheel, I was hoping to see a different opinion. Instead, I just found post after post asking for an address.

Don't worry about the actual measurement. Just get a good quality skid plate, such as an Armadillo or PRM. Then let it hit all of the rocks and roots that you want.

The Mighty Vac has two ports on it. One for vacuum and one for pressure. So applying pressure is as simple as moving the hose. The only problem is that the gauge only measures a vacuum, so you have to be careful how much pressure you apply. Hopefully the picture helps out. I probably made half a dozen trips to the hardware store before I finally got the correct parts. SDD, looks nice, do you use shop air to pressure up the engine?

whoops

I measured the outside diameter of the pieces that go into the carb boots to be aroung 1 5/16". Here is the picture of my kit.

I pull 6psi vacuum. If it holds that for 6 minutes, then I am done. If it doesn't hold the vacuum. Then I apply pressure and use the soapy water to look for leaks. The plugs that I put in the carb boots want to shoot out under pressure and I am too impatient to sit and hold them in for 6 minutes. Use vacuum or pressure, whichever is more convenient for you. Brian, do you want a picture of the components? I can post a pic later if you need it.

I don't know of any place that sells a complete kit. You will have to purchase all of the components seperately. The key component is a Mighty Vac. Most decent autopart stores carry these. Autozone does as well. It is simply a hand operated vacuum pump with a built in gauge. To obtain the rest of the components you need to go to a hardware store that carries lots of plumbing supplies You will need two 1 1/4" rubber expansion plugs for the exhaust ports. I couldn't find 1 1/4" plugs, so I have to use 1 1/2" plugs. They are a little too big to get in the exhaust ports, but a little grease and cussing usually gets them in. Next you will need a PVC pipe cap that fits in one of the intake boots. Sorry, but I can't remember the size right now. You should measure your intake boot before heading to the store. This will save numerous trips to the hardware store, believe me I know. Next you will need a PVC coupling that is smooth on the outside and fits in the carb boot, but it needs to be threaded on the inside. Lastly you will need a hose barb that screws into the coupling and fits one of the hoses that came with the might vac.

Spoin, this isn't the only time that I plan on heading there this summer. But this is the weekend that worked out best for my riding buddies that usually have to work weekends. If there is any other time that you want to go, let me know. 03'shee, I'll keep you up to date. We won't go if there is a bunch of rain in the first two weeks of June, since that place turns into such a nasty mud pit.

In my opinion, the grip glue is a waste of money. Spray paint worked much better for me and I always have a few cans laying around to use. But even the spray paint only lasts so long. If you really want your grips to stay in place, then use safety wire.

I never really intented to start a business shortening swingarms. I posted some pictures after I cut my own down and then people started asking me if I would cut their swingarms down also. Since it is always nice to have a little extra cash, I started cutting few down and then more and more. I appreciate the business that I received. But it got to feeling like work and got in the way of the rest of my life. Hell, my mud truck sat for four months because I didn't have time to get the new engine running. Plus, it felt like my only involvement in this website was making money, I don't want that. I have posted a detailed 'how-to' in the Tips & Tricks section. Maybe someone else on here will pick it up.

This website has a map of the state of Indiana, showing which counties it is legal to ride a registered ATV on the road. It only costs $30 to register for three years. Too bad I live in North-Western Indiana. http://www.in.gov/dnr/outdoor/ohv/roads.htm

A few friends, my wife, and I will be heading to Haspin Acres on the weekend of June 12 & 13. Is anyone else available to go that weekend?

me too

Yes, clip is currently in the middle position.

Sorry to bring this old post back up to the top, but I wanted to give an update to those that helped me out. I put in 380's and the plugs were still tan. As a sanity check I went down the rode a 1/4 mile or so, put in a new plug, and rode back to the house at wot. I cut the plug open and had a very, very small amount of color on the base of the porcelein, which confirms that I am still lean. Not wanting to head back to town for more jets I put my airbox lid back on. It ran a little rough on top and the plugs were brown after a wot 6th gear run. The lid threw off the rest of my jetting, but at least it got the main close. Next I tried 430's w/out the lid. It ran about the same as it did with the 380's but I picked up some color on the plugs. Not quite as dark as I want them, but close. This time the right plug was darker than the left. On all previous runs both plugs looked the same. I lost 5 psi of compression during Roostfest. I have lost another 15 psi since then. So it is time for a rebuild. I wanted to get the jetting right before I rebuilt the motor, but I think that the worn out rings might be messing with my jetting. KRMit, how is your compression?

I use vacuum at 6 psi for 6 minutes. If I find that I have a leak, then I will apply pressure and use soapy water to look for the leak. The plugs that I put in the carb boots want to shoot out when I have the whole system under pressure and I don't want to stand there and hold them in for 6 minutes. When I apply the vacuum, I can just walk away and do something else.

I'd like to, but this weekend is Mother's day so I won't have any time to ride. A few of my friends work weekends also and we have been trying to pick a weekend to go to Haspin to ride/camp. I'll post the dates once we get it figured out.