J..J.

Did you earth the plug against the head while kicking it?

www.maier-mfg.com

Sorry to hear about your bad luck! Looks like things are going to get a bit more expensive. The locking plate tab has to be bent away. You have to hold the clutch boss with the proper tool, this you can fabricate from an old friction plate. (Tip: Do not try to jam the boss with a screwdriver, damage is sure to result) The nut is to be turned counter clockwise, impact wrench would be easiest. As you have to split the cases for the crank exchange, I suggest slowing down your plans for a while until you've done your homework. Do some searches, a lot has been said about bottom end work. "In for a penny, in for a pound" as my Daddy used to say. You might as well go thru the engine with a fine tooth comb now, and then you know it's done right. There's a whole list of things to check before you re-assemble. I'm sure the others will chime in soon enough. Hope your luck changes for the better!

Yeah, Ben's da man. I still have print outs of posts by Ben and Wheatchex from years ago.

Happy B-Day guys, XTshee 99 yrs young today, MMmm, all I can say is keep it up old timer

If you're not tight for bucks, then dump it.

Are you still running the 15cc domes? You need to check your compression, from reading your other posts, you haven't done anything to fix the "hole in the piston" problem you had before. In fact, reading about the plug electrode, you might be on the way to the same problem again. If you have measured the compression, what is it?

Nothing wrong with the stock needles, I bought a set of ALBA needles, but could never get the mid-throttle to run right, so went back to the stockers. Mine:Fatties/K&N/No lid/320 Mains

Nice post Blacksmith!

This from BT:" quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by NYUK: naaaa, don`t lock the thread.this is good stuff,lil cracka ass crackas getting upset at a brothers picture in the redneck olympics. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- u black? see why blacks piss me off. cracka this and cracka that, but if the white man says nig-ger, someone is getting capped. thats bullshit. i always have balcks making racial slurs towards me, but god forbid i even say the word dark around one of them." Go NYUK!!

WTF? I'll definetely have to put that one in the li'l black book...

Big roller at the bottom.

Excellent as usual Ben!!! Ben is right, hope I didn't lead you further astray Meat. Apologies if I did. Any updates?

Not sure, is it still the 4 -speed model? Depends on gearing...

I am sure that is your problem, break that connection and try again. As explained before, the way kill switches stop the engine is by grounding the circuit.

It still seems lean, even with the 340's, did the bog clear out? This should have richened things out a bit??? I would jet her correctly now and then once the stator and plate has been fitted, re-check the jetting again. It shouldn't change too much with just a timing change. Do one thing at a time. If you are sure there are no air leaks then go up on the mains, as much as it seems hard to believe...

I reckon you're in the ballpark. Mine: Fatties/K&N/No-lid/V-Force, at 1500 feet, 320Mains, 30 pilot.

Maybe... The segment of a circle (the straight line intersecting the arc of a circle at angle a) is calculated as follows: Where: s = the straight line distance a = the included angle D = the PCD (diameter of the bolt hole circle) s = D x sin a/2 Don't know the PCD as I'm nowhere close to my bike, but once you have it, just substitute into the above equation. You can either substitute "a" as one degree or as 4 degrees to get straight to the desired measurement.

Brilliant!

Hope I didn't jinx you man... First of all, don't sell it! I'm not anywhere near my quad at the moment, but looking at the diagram you posted in the in the beginning of the thread, it's quite a bit different to the original. The most important difference I noticed is the ground wire from the coil, this should be seperate from all the other ground wires in my opinion. If you still have the multi connectors from the old harnass lying around, I would make a temporary harnass outside of the frame, running just the bare essentials to fault find. Leave about 2 inches of slack on the connectors and cut the rest away. Connect fresh wires outside the frame as follows: (Leave the other harnass in place.) The w/r & w/g, wire from the pickup coil to the CDI. The r & g wire from the stator to the CDI. The r/b and b/w from the cdi are used to kill the engine by grounding, so make sure these are not connected to anything. The orange wire from the cdi to the coil primary. The black earth wire from the coil primary to a good ground connection. (The terminal on the coil is marked for ground, I think, so make sure you've got this on the correct terminal) The HT leads to the plugs, make sure these are good, include the caps in your check. All this should only take 1/2 hour or so, you only need those 6 wires to make her run. Other things to check: Pick-up coil resistance, w/r & w/g. Can't remember what it should be. Stator you've got covered. New plugs correctly gapped, the little screw on connector screwed on tight. CDI you've got covered, wouldn't hurt to try the old one again. P/U Coil gap you've got covered. The main suspects in my opinion are the r/b and b/w wire are grounding somewhere, either thru a faulty switch or insulation break down. The black ground wire from the coil, this should be as short as possible with a good ground. Just hang in there, make sure there are a few cold ones handy and keep at it!

If they are +2, you might need extended brake hoses.

And if I won the lotto I'd be there for the Coalfest! Smokin!

Keep looking for the leak, carb tops, boots, cross-overtube hose clips. As it's overheating allready I wouldn't risk running it anymore. I highly recommend you do a leak down test.

Sounds like fun, any pictures of the 'shee in the car?