J..J.

I reckon if youre REALLY in a bind & can't afford new plugs, you should at least use old B8ES/BR8ES. Not too sure what you mean 'bout cheap plugs, but it doesn't sound good. Clean the old plugs best you can, especially around the base of the white insulator, & make sure the engine's warmed up before you put the clean plugs in. I.M.O. you should try to use new plugs, at least for the W.O.T. test.

Well done guys, damn I'm jealous. Thanks for the pics, they really came out well (once I could finally see them...) Ben how did those 18 inchers work out?

Hey Ben, where them pictures at man?! How did it go, who did you smoke, DNF'ed ? Pray tell, we need details, with a full report...

XC !

I vote XC, Lee are you there...

Thanx for the "Heads-up", I prefer the billet alloy look myself. If I ever had to paint my rims,(and I'm sure I won't), it'll be black, same as my font color...

Daamn! Guys I'm so jealous! Photo's please! Have a good time and hope you guys smoke all the YFZ's and TRX's !

Don't know 'bout USA legislation, but it certainly is possible here in South Africa. Registered as a "quadrucycle" when I bought it new from the dealer. I had the dealer fit a relay for the direction indicator lights, (not too sure about the wiring, but I can check when I get home). Fitted enduro bike indicator lights whith quick connectors, a 12V horn, cheap-ass rear view mirror from a mountain bike shop and that was it. The indicators would barely flash at idle, but rev it up a bit and they flash nicely. Cops were all over me the first week that I had it back in 2000, but now they leave me alone. It is not strictly roadworthy, the 2000 didn't come with the brake light, but none of the cops ever picked it up. Since then I've removed the indicators, horn and mirror and the cops don't bother me much. I ride quietly (if such a thing is at all possible on a Shee) by short shifting as much as possible until I get to the trail. Since then the registration plate has snapped off a dozen times and I subsequently replaced it with a reflective decal that I stuck inside the left rear fender. Not really visible from behind when you're on the bike. HeHe I don't commute with it or use it as transport much, but tyres don't last long, Shredders, Razr's, Holeshots tried them all. Most of the pavement riding is done just to go for a quick spin around my favourate trail, other than that the bike is hauled to where I'm going. g350, I'm not anywhere close to my bike for at least another week, but if you're keen I can check on the wiring if you wish.

Best wishes to you & your family Led. Nothing I can say to make it better, so I won't even try. You're THE MAN now...

Hey Ben, We need photo's!!! We use the CO2 cartridges (mountain bike type) over here, but they are not as popular (or cheap) as the aerosol tyre inflators. They carry enough volume to inflate one rear tyre each, but I find them (CO2) a bit fiddly with gloves on. 370 mains is REAL fat man, I would choke the airflow and re-jet. We also carry mini-type mountain bike pumps as a last resort. They take forever to inflate a rear tyre, but once you've run out of compressed gas, you'll be glad you brought it along. Will you have a good pit crew standing by? If so maybe a spare filter or outerwear. Other than that you've got it covered, try to stay clear of the dust ! Did I mention photo's ?

You'all got to move to Africa man...

How about becoming a BHQ sponsor and giving discount to members, that'll go down much better than spammimg the site... P.S. I don't see Boondockers in your list ?

Small tack weld, easy to file or grind off.

LOL Other issues: Washing the K&N in the kitchen sink. Heating bearings on the stove. Using her hair drier to heat up the flywheel before pulling it off. Taking toothbrushes from the bathroom to clean parts. Using kitchen towels as shop rags. Leaf blowing and powdercoating will definetely have me sleeping with the kids!

Assuming "stock" means original airfilter setup, I reckon you're in the ballpark. Maybe towards the rich side of "ball park". If you still have the snorkle, I suggest removing it and you should be close. Remember the WOT test after rejetting the mains...

Don't take this the wrong way, but maybe your bike wasn't running too well before anyway, so a lot of the performance gains could have been just due to better jetting. Anyways, good for you, I certainly don't have the balls the put the dremel to my cylinders.

I'm running Fatty's, K&N, lid on, 30Pilots, 320Mains, 0-2500ft. I'm not using the stock needle, however I would leave the stock needle in the middle. You don't mention what size mains you're using. Suggest you check out the FAQ for jetting. It would be useful to refer to throttle positions, elevation and temperature when you try to describe a problem with jetting.

Fatty's, K&N, lid on, no snorkle, sealevel to 2500ft. 320Mains, 30pilots. If she starts ok, and there is no hesitation when you blip the throttle 0-1/4, then I would leave the pilots as they are. I would go up some on the mains though...

I reckon you should try a small section on a non-visible part of the rim and see how it turns out. Either way you should re-coat it with clear coat once you're done. You're letting yourself in for a helluva lot of work and once you start, you're committed. Let us know how it turns out.

Can't think of any pretty ways to do this, if chiseling it anti clockwise with a centre punch doesn't unscrew it, then you'll have to take the clutch cover off and grab that sucker from the inside. Drain the water and oil out and tip the bike over on its side with support under the handle bar, then you should be able to get to all the screws easily. If they are still the old phillips head type screw, then that won't be too pretty either. If the head of the screwdriver slips, get someone to try turn the screwdriver while you're hitting the end of the screwdriver with a BFH. If that fails, then just chisel them anti-clockwise until they turn easily. Suggest you replace those with stainless allen head screws while you're at it. Replace with M6 x 30, 8 screws M6 x 40, 1 screw. Good luck

Forgot... Thanx for the info guys!

Hey Evil, you've quite a memory my man! Been out of contact for a while, but back now to find the HQ different once again. Yeah I made it to L.A., unfortunately for me my boss suggested the family tag along (wife and 2 small girls), so we ended up at Disneyland, which blew the Banshee goodies budget out the water. Managed to get to ALBA with what little bucks was left and bought some IMS kick-up pegs, Denton Steering Stabilizer and some small stuff. Only had about 10 minutes in the shop. Yet to put these things on the bike. So now I'm broke and starting to save up again, I'll get those shocks one day...

I think you're all missing what Aussie's trying to say here, sure we're all keen to see the final number, but all dyno's are different, different SAE Corrections are applied and different gear ratios are used, Peak HP readings can be manipulated very easily. The dyno should only be used as a reference tool to see if you're tuning towards your goal. For your info, HP can not EVER be measured, only calculated, as it is a product of torque and RPM

I thought the bearings were sealed... If they're not then it would be a great idea, some pictures when you're done would be nice!

I'm interested in buying one of these, any reviews? http://www.viosport.com