J..J.

Sani Pass, Lesotho, South Africa. Used to be part of the "Roof Of Africa" off-road race about 20 years ago. This road is not too far from me, and better suited to Banshee's, only problem is the 2800m elevation change creates jetting problems near the top. I usually jet with my air boxlid on and remove it when I run out of power near the top. Edit: can't get the damn pic to show!! Don't confuse my reply with the picture shown at the top of the post, it's not the same road.

Girl, you're HOT!

Holyman, you hit the nail right on the head! My sister-in-law and her husband down to a T !

Ja boet, jy wil mos! I'm sure the wounds and ego will heal well enough to ride again soon. Hopefully no-one saw you go over the bars. At least this gives you more time to browse the BHQ!

Holyman, that's funny man! Your post made my day!

DUNEDEMON, I've said it before, but I have to say it again. YOUR BIKE ROCKS!

Give'em HELL Don't forget the pix.

At that altitude you need as much air as you can possibly flow, if the airbox lid is still on, then take it off, if the clip is allready at the top then there's not much else you can do as most aftermarket needles differ only in the taper and the length of the taper.

In that case I don't think you have a coolant leak. Just to make sure, open up the radiator cap and look inside with the bike idling. I'm guessing your problem is less serious, like a carb problem or such, like the "." said

If the smoke is very white and sweetish smelling then you probably have a leaking headgasket as you suspected. Open the radiator cap and let the bike idle, try to see for evidence of combustion pressure making its way into the coolant. another scource of a coolant leak is the shaft seal behind the water pump. 240 inch pounds sounds correct, did you tighten in the correct sequence, the sequence numbers should be marked on the head if it's still stock. You could have a warped head, or the cylinders are somehow miss-aligned. The head can easily be checked for warpage by rubbing it on some smooth grit emery paper taped onto a glass pane or surface plate. Silicon won't do shit, once you've torqued the head down once, IMO the gasket can't be used again. Renew it, but not before you've checked everything. The gasket should come with an "UP" mark, look out for it. When the head is off you should also be able to see evidence of the coolant leaking past on either the head sealing face or the cylinders sealing face. Don't give up, and let us know how it went, the guys here will help you out, that's for sure.

I had no problem with Air Quality the few times I've been over to Cali, if you want to see smog, try Soweto, Johannesburg on a winter morning, or Bangkok, or Taipei, or Delhi etc, etc,

Maybe in YOUR part of the world, I can't see them changing the design of scooters and mopeds in Asia or in Africa for a long time to come... 2-Stroke smoke isn't high on the list of priorites around these parts...

That sucks, but I'm pretty sure that kinda shit happens more often than we know.

Sound awesome! Any pic's??

Don't forget to rejet!!!

Estimated HP: No freaking idea, but it's not nearly enough! Mods: Fatty's/K&N, No lid/ Timing at +4/Vito's SS pistons/V-Force/PD Coolhead 20cc.

Hope you have a great day! I'm sure at 35 you don't want to be reminded of you age

Here's mine: Fatty's, K&N, No lid, 2500-3000ft, V-Force, 300-320 Mains, stock needle in the middle, 27.5pilots, air screw 2 - 2.5 turns out.

antwa, you found out what that strange noise was? I highly recommend you follow Holyman's advice and check it out. I'm from the KwaZuluNatal North Coast. The Sabar is not bad for the price, I've had mine for a few years now, no probs. Like Holyman said, no need to go for the high end bars, spend your money on something else... Hope to see more of you on the forums!

Coop, take the airfilter off, look inside at the slides and see if they are all the way down. Move the throttle lever all the way and release. The slides should come down fast with a bit of a "clunck". If they don't then you've propably messed up with the spring and cable retainer when you lowered the needle... Also check the split connector for the throttle cable. If you haven't synch'd the slides yet then you still have to do this. As for the boost bottle and the spacers... We'll besides the ball-ache of trying to squeeze your carbs back into the boots, the boost bottle also adds stress to the boots and you've now created a potential scource for airleaks. My honest advice is to get rid of both the boost bottle and the spacers and go back to original. If you want some in-expensive performance mods, then rather look at shaving the head or slotting the holes in the stator plate to advance the timing a tad. As for the sore back, I always put my bike on a beer crate to raise it a bit.

I seem to recollect it was at the box, just disconnect and give it a try, it shouldn't hurt...

Hey, he said South Africa... and it's not small... antwa, welcome to the HQ, good to see a fellow South African on this board. where are you from? You could get a SABAR, it's an alloy bar locally made.

Brock is right, Mikuni uses flowrate in cc's per minute, so it is obvious then that the relationship between jet diameter and flow rate is not linear. (A jet with a diameter of 2x another does not flow 2x the amount of fuel.) You have to establish the relationship between the area and the flowrate, (either a graph or spreadsheet) and then work backwards to get the diameter for a specific flow rate. Also like Brock said, don't mess up the hollow at the non-threaded end of the jet. That drill kit looks the bee's knees, I'd love to have that in my gargage. Sredish, I'm quite keen to see how it turns out...

I'm not anywhere close to my bike right now, but I seem to remember just following the wires down and disconnecting them at the connector.