J..J.

Anytime man! I need a partner for the Roof Of Africa

Please don't think that I'm dissing you man. You're best bet would be to do a search, you'll find a lot about this topic, some of it will be B.S., but you should be able to form an opinion. As for reliability, like I said, I only know one person with a 450 and he's had no problems at all. Cheers J.J.

Not any where close to my bike right now, but I seem to think that the rear mounting tab (the one for the cannister) has a nylon or teflon grommet to stop vibration. Nick, does yours have this?

Yo Meat! Hope you're not planning any trips soon, if my memory serves me correctly you made a complete balls up of the last wiring job On my 2000 I just unplugged it...

Looking at your other posts, not ALL the guys on here agree with the lean mixture theory, some of us are leaning towards detonation. Are you still running 15cc domes? If you are, what is the compression with the new pistons fitted? Sort that out first and then come back to the carb.

Hey Boxhead Welcome to the HQ, since you're new here I'm sure everyone will go easy on ya for asking this question. Here's why: 1) This is the Banshee HQ, what do you think the answer will be? 2) This topic has been discussed over and over, do a search and you'll find the answer. 3) Everyone is so bored with this topic, they might just ignore you... The 450 is plenty fast and stock for stock will have the edge on a Banshee. I only know one person with a 450, his is fitted with a K&N and DMC Aliens, everything else stock except for jetting. My Banshee, stock bore, stock port configuration, stock carbs, FMF Fatty, V-Force reeds, +4 Timing, Vitos Super Stock Pistons and 22' rear tires with stock gearing JUST beats him from a second gear start all the way through 6th gear on pavement. The best thing about the Banshee IMO is the thrill of the powerband hit, nothing compares...

Yamahammer, How 'bout overseas orders? Special case here! I just gotta have me one of those! Name your price! C'mon man let me in!

Hey Nuts, wish my wife was as interested in quads... Could just be that you found your problem. This would cause a major lean condition and I suggest you don't ride the bike without replacing the boots. Not too many boost bottle fans on the HQ, they don't do much except for eye candy, and besides, they put added stress on the rubber boot. My personal opinion is to go back to the stock cross-over tube, this will relieve the stress on the boots and clear up some much needed maintenance space in that area. Please post back and let us know the results of the comp. test etc.

U need to buy more...

My vote goes to detonation. Even with the race gas, 15cc domes are pretty tight. 60 over - maybe the domes would have to be re-cut to match the larger bore and correct the squish band some... Any idea what the compression was after the rebuilt and what the squish was set at?

First thing, cover the crankcase with a rag or towel to stop the li'l bastard from falling in there. Next, use a small screw driver to swivel the clip around to the little cut-out in the piston. Then get a pair of long nose pliers to fit into the cut-out, grab that sucker and twist it out. Next TROW IT AWAY!

Dunno man, have you tried bump starting her?

Try to trace back step by step what you have done to it, from when it did run to when it didn't. Over-oiling of airfilter perhaps? It seems as if you have the basics covered. Similiar thing happened to me a while back, couldn't start it, ended up pulling her with the truck and bump starting. Ran and started fine ever since, go figure...

Hand guards. I also run a spare throttle and clutch cable alongside the working one just in case... Almost forgot, frame and swing arm guards.

When fault finding, I usually start from the airfilter and move down stream to the cylinders. Every hose clamp and gasket is a potential scource for air leaks. This includes intake and carb boots, carb tops, cross-over tube or boost bottle if you have one and reedblocks. This is where the usual leaks are found. Next, check the base gasket and crankseal on the flywheel side. Making your own leak-down tester is highly recommended, but if you're lazy like me, use some "Quick Start" while the bike is idling and spray this around suspect areas. If the idling suddenly speeds up then you've found your leak. This stuff is flammable though so be carefull...

I reckon if it's not leaking then don't mess with it. BTW sealing is done with o-rings...

I also use a blade, and yes you can damage the sealing surface if you're not careful. Be sure to cover the exposed area of the crankcase with a rag or paper towel to prevent any shavings from falling in.

Hey Percy Good to see a fellow "African" on here. Where in Botswana are you from? Hockey, like the others said 20PSI is way high man...

If you're not up to doing any of the above suggestions, check to see if the pointy end of the tap is not protruding into the bore of the slide, if the slide can clear the f8#ked up hole and there are no burrs to interfere with the slide, just putty that hole up good and proper so no air leaks in. She won't idle too well, but you can still ride, alternatively, sync the carbs by adusting the slack in the cable at each carb top, once they are in sync, take up the slack at the throttle until she starts to idle. Let us know what happened!

Reas got it covered, also check that the needle isn't bent.

IF you can get the tap out without messing up the bore of the slide, and that's a BIG IF, the way I see it you have 2 options: 1) Fill the hole with metal epoxy, re-drill and tap. 2) Take the damaged carb and idle screw to a machine shop and asked them to turn you a new idle screw, one size bigger and drill and tap the carb to match. Any machinist should be able to spin that little screw in a few minutes. Try to post a picture if you can. Good luck man!

Thanx for the tips guys, didn't think about draining the water out the frame - good idea. Coolant is mixed 50/50 and it doesn't get too cold here in South Africa so I should be ok in that department. Not too worried about the fuel tank either, I'll just rinse it when I get back. My main concern is corrosion in the cylinders, perishing of rubber parts like o-rings and seals, especially the brake system. I've arranged for the Old Man to crank her over once in a while and to operate the brakes and clutch. Once again thanks to all for the advice. Thanks! Don't think it'll be much fun, spotted some cool downhill singletrack on a previous trip so I'm taking my mountain bike and ofcourse the HQ is never too far away

I'll trade ya! HeHe

Hey guys, I've been assigned to a shipbuilding yard in South Korea, so have to pack the shee away for about 1 1/2 years. Have done the following to prepare for longterm storage: Cleaned bike completely. Lubed everything I could find, gease zerks, chain, cables. Filled the axle carrier completely with grease (grease zerks fitted) Drained carbs. Drained tank. Filled the gear case right to the top of the dipstick hole with gear oil (to prevent the exposed gears from corrosion) Covered all the bling bits with spray on non-stick cooking fat (aerosol type) Couple of table spoons of Yamalube down the plug holes. Anything I forgot? How can I stop my new Kenda Claws from perishing? Thanx in advance

I've lump in my throat & my eyes are all misty, I still remember the ELKA post 'bout a year ago between B370 and BD. Just kiddin... lots of respect for these guys...