J..J.

Too late now, but you should have put the square key in after putting the primary drive gear on the crank. How far did it go in? Is it almost home yet? If you just tapped it in maybe it's not too tight. If you have a small puller you could try the following: Get a strong hoseclip, slightly larger diameter than the gear OD. Put the hose clip around the gear and try to sandwich 2 same size nuts between the hoseclip and the gear. Space the nuts 180Deg apart. Tighten the hoseclip as tight as possible. Now you have some anchoring points for your puller. Put the puller on, gripping around the nuts and put a bit of tension. Next get a hairdrier or heat gun and heat the outside of the gear slowly to allow it to expand. Once it's nice and hot, try to pull it off with the puller. You could also try something similiar with an exhaust clamp from a car, (U-bolt type clamp) If the whole contraption slips off, you'll have to split the cases... The "purists" will most propably baulk at the "bushmechanic" idea, but what the heck it's worth a try. Let us know what happened.

polishing Excellent post by Meat_Head, pity the pictures are gone now.

Can see why you're concerned, I'd also prefer someone with a calculator and degree wheel to cut my cylinders up... I suppose if it performs as promised after the job is done, then there shouldn't be much too complain about.

and Hate to pop your bubble, but me thinks you better open up those carbs again to make sure about your jetting...

Not bad Dirtrider, not bad at all... That got me thinking about my next project, I prefer mild steel though. I'm thinking about making a bracket to the rear bumper of my truck... You sure this is your idea?

I'm jealous, have fun!

Slayer, I just noticed that you're new here, welcome Bro... I have a 3 litre gas can that fits between the frame rails in front of the engine. My bike is fitted with a skid plate and FMF pipes, with a bit of wrestling it fits in there nicely. I doubt it would work with stock pipes though. You could strap a small can to the grabbar I suppose... I would recommend the foam filter, with a Proflow adapter for very dusty rides and K&N with Outerwares for normal trail rides. Not too sure about the prices in your location, I'm from South Africa. If you're running a stock compression engine, regular will be good enough.

I normally pre-mix my fuel and carry the extra fuel along. I also made a small spreadsheet that I printed and laminated and stuck under the seat to give me the correct ratio. Are you talking about the stock filter? I washed mine in fuel when it was still stock, but have since replaced it with a K&N, for the K&N, I use the K&N cleaner. To answer your question, no I don't recommend it, fuel is dangerous and can penetrate your bloodstream etc, ect, ad nauseum. You should be thinking about upgrading that filter if it's still stock, it's going to let you down.

I have the same problem man, depending on the ride, I sometimes drop my main jet from 320 to 290 by adding the airbox lid, just to get a better consumption.

That sucks dude, sorry to hear about that. Like Sredish said, split the cases and inspect the crank. If you can, post pics as you go along and I'm sure the guys here will advise you on what to do next. As for being broke, I've been there more times than I care to remember, it normally passes.

Ben, you're not gonna want to hear this, but the 2 diagrams are the only pics that loaded, the rest are all red x's. Refreshed a dozen times, still the same...

Six - love, to Brooke

This should get real interesting real quick...

How did you get to 80 over so fast? Also is your filter set-up still stock as well? What are the plugs telling you?

I like the original name, not too pretentious. Look at "Magnolia Tractor & Yamaha" selling TCS suspension and John Deer. The name isn't very descriptive, but due to the right advertising I'm sure they are doing ok. Also, if you allready have an established client base, why go change a good thing?

Read BenBB's new electrical FAQ, it'll tell you all you need to know... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html

Except for the axle I reckon you don't need any of that stuff. Buy used stock parts on e-bay. Get your priorities straight and buy the truck!!

Excellent info! Took a while to read, about 5 lunch breaks at work. Only one minor comment: Q47; Reads "Make sure you not how the wires are routed around the stator plate"? Once again, excellent stuff! Can't thank you enough! J.J.

Not sure about the sealing arrangement for Dynoports, are they O-rings like stock and FMF's? If so, try for a fatter O-ring.

The "why can't we all just get along" post should be appearing pretty soon.

A BFH has always worked for me...

Those chicks were giving you THE LOOK dude You owe us big time Bro'!

While the carbs are off, inspect all the rubber boots for signs of perishing, especially around the base of the cross-over tube. This can well be expected from a bike this age. Idling high like that at idle sounds like an airleak to me...

Ballpark numbers: 300-320 Mains Stock needle in the middle position 27.5 pilots Air screw 1.5 turns out. It should run ok with these settings, just fine tune it further in the different throttle circuits. Read BenBB's Jetting FAQ to learn all you need to know...

You're right, Blue Duece has been lying low as well....